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I know this has been discussd probably a million times but i am having trouble finding exactly what i need through all my internet searches. I have a serpentine belt set up/system off of an 88 camaro iroc on my 355 engine. It has the stock 105amp CS130 alternator on it. The alt is not keeping up with the dual electric fans, sound system, aftermarker tach and gauges i have om my car. I want to upgrade to atleast a 140amp or 160 amp alt but do not want to use and aftermarker alt like powermaster with only one year warranty. I want one that i can get at the local parts store that will come with a warranty that lasts longer than a year and easy warranty replacement if it goes out. Ive seen that cs144 and ad244 alternators are the ones to get. My question is what exact year and model car/truck do i get one of these from? All my searches get me conflicting results on car models. I know there will be some modications but what exactly is involved. I dont mind making/adding some kind of adaptation bracket to my original brackets but do not want to cut or grind much off of my orginal serpetine brackets to make it work. Thanks
I got mine from a 2001 Silverado. Search on AD244... you'll find that there's actually very minimal grinding. I had to drill a couple of small holes for the support bracket I fabbed as well. But if for whatever unforeseen reason I wanted to, I could go back to the original style alternator.
Anyone else have any suggestions for years of cars/trucks? Trying to find one at the local parts store with lifetime warranty. For some reason all the ones i am finding are only 105 amps. Where is everyone finding these 145 amp alts from autozone and oreillys i keep reading about?
If any of you have experience rebuilding some of the Modern Alternators (or are willing to learn)...
Both the AD230 and AD244 are very simple to rebuild with a Pulley Puller and a HD Soldering Iron.
The Stator and Diode Bridge Rectifier can be swapped in either Alternator...
To achieve 1.5 - 2 Times the Output of the Original Rating.
I have done a few hundred of these...
When you see 350A - 400A Aftermarket Alternators for Chevrolet Engines...
They are what I described above, just will Billet Case Halves.
I also would not recommend a cheap Chinese Rebuild.
The Aftermarket has high quality Components (better than Stock) available to rebuild our own Alternators.
I purchase an Improved Diode Bridge Rectifier and Hair-Pin Stator (both Aftermarket)...
Plus Brushes, Bearings, or anything else that is worn out.
Last I install everything into CNC cut Billet Cases:
Hey vorteciroc is it possible to rebuild the cs130 alt to produce a higher amperage rating? I have few extra working cs130 alts i can try on if its possible.
Alright so now my next question is how to wire it up. Again with all my research on this im finding different ways and not a definitive answer. Let me give more info so that everyone knows what im working with. I have a 1961 impala that has a 355 chevy engine with 1988 iroc serpentine belt system on it. The connector on the CS130 has 3 wires coming off of it labeled S,F, and L. Im not using the F wire. The S wire is red and is looped back to the positive terminal on the alternator. The L wire is wired to an ignition powered wire with a light bulb wired into it. The wire that the L wire is connected to is a single brown wire coming from under the dash labeled alternator ign. The new AD244 alternator has a plug with 4 wires going to it labeled P, L, F, S. How is this supposed to be wired up, im seeing a lot of single and 2 wire explanations. Thanks
The L wire has a small bulb wired in to take the place of the resistor. Tried the resistor route and kept blowing them. Maybe i didnt have a resistor stout enough, thought i did but the light bulb works perfectly. As for the S wire i have a 4 gauge cable coming directly from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive stud on the back of the alternator. Looping S wire to that should work right? So basically it will be wired up almost exactly like the CS130.
The resistor should be used (in Parallel)...
So if the Light Bulb Filament fails, the Alternator Voltage Regulator will not be damaged.
No in regard to the S Terminal...
It can not touch the Charge Post of the Alternator.
ONLY a direct connection to the Battery (NOT touching anything else)...
Or just do NOT use the S Terminal.
The S Terminal is called the "Remote Voltage Sensing Circuit".
It SENSES the Voltage at a REMOTE location (Battery)...
To monitor how much the Battery Voltage has dropped compared to the Voltage at the Charging Post of the Alternator.
(In a way, this circuit almost senses how much Amperage is being demanded of the available maximum the Alternator can provide).