Engine don't stop with key ....
Engine don't stop with key ....
Hi everybody.
Sorry for my bad english.
I have a 83 Z28 305ci, i rebuild this car which was a mess.
One day i start the engine to move the car and surprise when i turn off the key the motor don't stop....i try to unplug the battery but still running, so i have to block the air filter to suffocate the engine.
Everything work before and now i can't stop engine.
What do i need to chek (i'm noob in electricity) ?
Can someone help me ?
Thanks a lot to everyone !
Sorry for my bad english.
I have a 83 Z28 305ci, i rebuild this car which was a mess.
One day i start the engine to move the car and surprise when i turn off the key the motor don't stop....i try to unplug the battery but still running, so i have to block the air filter to suffocate the engine.
Everything work before and now i can't stop engine.
What do i need to chek (i'm noob in electricity) ?
Can someone help me ?
Thanks a lot to everyone !
Supreme Member




Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,015
Likes: 817
From: Colorado USA
Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
Engine: 350 with L-69 components
Transmission: 700R-4, 2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Re: Engine don't stop with key ....
It shouldn't run with the battery disconnected...
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,918
Likes: 2,448
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Engine don't stop with key ....
It shouldn't run with the battery disconnected
When I asked "how is it connected", I was more asking, what is its source of power. It also might be worthwhile to disconnect the small plug going into the alternator and see if it turns off normally then.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,221
Likes: 1,141
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Engine don't stop with key ....
Unplug the 12v wire to distributor. That should kill it until you find the issue
Re: Engine don't stop with key ....
Sure it should. That's been the test of generators and alternators since they were invented: if you unhook the batt and the car dies, the generator isn't generating. NOT A Good Idea to use that troubleshooting method on cars nowadays, with all the electronics; but the principle remains the same.
When I asked "how is it connected", I was more asking, what is its source of power. It also might be worthwhile to disconnect the small plug going into the alternator and see if it turns off normally then.
When I asked "how is it connected", I was more asking, what is its source of power. It also might be worthwhile to disconnect the small plug going into the alternator and see if it turns off normally then.
The ignition Switch on the steering column might be the problem ?
Another weird thing, the choke light (left to engine light) is Always on when key is off position , and the light shut down when Key is on position, we have manuel starter, so it's normal or not ?
Many thanks
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,918
Likes: 2,448
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Engine don't stop with key ....
Doesn't sound like the ignition switch. It could be, but not likely.
No that "choke" light behavior is not right. It makes no difference whether the car has a manual transmission or an automatic.
The "choke" light is ACTUALLY the "alternator" light. The regulator, inside the alternator, lights it, when the key is On and the alternator is not generating electricity, via that small plug. The reason it's labelled "choke" is because the choke, which is electrically heated, gets power only when the alternator is charging; this prevents it from getting heated when the key is on but the engine is not running. When the alternator doesn't work, then the choke doesn't get power, and it stays in its "cold" setting permanently, which makes the engine run VERY rich, which creates VERY high pollution; and evidently the factory chose to warn the car's operator about THAT condition (the choke warm-up being disabled), instead of telling what's REALLY wrong, namely, the alternator not working.
Again, try disconnecting the small plug going into the alternator, and see what happens.
No that "choke" light behavior is not right. It makes no difference whether the car has a manual transmission or an automatic.
The "choke" light is ACTUALLY the "alternator" light. The regulator, inside the alternator, lights it, when the key is On and the alternator is not generating electricity, via that small plug. The reason it's labelled "choke" is because the choke, which is electrically heated, gets power only when the alternator is charging; this prevents it from getting heated when the key is on but the engine is not running. When the alternator doesn't work, then the choke doesn't get power, and it stays in its "cold" setting permanently, which makes the engine run VERY rich, which creates VERY high pollution; and evidently the factory chose to warn the car's operator about THAT condition (the choke warm-up being disabled), instead of telling what's REALLY wrong, namely, the alternator not working.
Again, try disconnecting the small plug going into the alternator, and see what happens.
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