I am planing on getting this engine, and want to know what I can reuse and what I need new. I got a 91 305 tpi.

http://www.goautocenter.com/300hp_tpi_1987-89.htm

Also this may sound stupid but I want to put on L98 alum heads on it, is this a good idea or is there some reason I shouldn't or can't?

 

I bought one of those last year (300HP goautocenter crate).
My car's tbi, though , so I ordered it with the other cam they offer, main difference being 116 degree l/c.
Changing 305 to 350, you'll want to get the 350 injectors, though with tpi, I'm sure a little fuel pressure increase will get it running. Still to get the most out of it, you should get the 350 injectors.
You'll also need to swap the Knock Sensor and ESC Module, as their tuned to a different frequency.
Knock Sensor: AC/Delco # 10456288
ESC Module: AC /Delco # 16128261
Other than that, it should be a pretty straightforward swap, but a custom chip will be required to get the most out of it.
If you don't burn your own, the next best thing is a custom from Ed Wright at fastchip.com. His customs are $350. He got mine right the first time and it runs really well. My "lowly RS" smokes 4.6l Cobras with little effort.
By the way, since installing the 300HP crate last december, I've put 13,000 miles on it with no troubles.
-Rich-

 

Hey Rich, what kind of times do you run with that engine?

Sounds like a really good deal. Definately going into my list of bookmarks as a place to buy an engine from.

 

I don't have a "real" time slip for it yet, as the local drag strip no longer exists.
My guess would be mid 13's.
Car's set up for handling, though, not drag racing.
I did have the motor on a dyno, before installing it in the car and it made 317HP@4500 and 399 ft/lbs @2500 rpms at the flywheel.

My T5 trans isn't long for this world, I'm afraid.
Gonna have to get a real transmission this winter, I guess.
-Rich-

 

I've been 'researching' this engine for the past month. The only reason I haven't got it yet is because my mechanic told me I would have to build up the whole drivetrain. He told me I would have to get my 700r4 trans rebuilt to handle that much hp. Also my driveshaft balanced, u joints replaced and the rearend replaced/rebuild..i don't remember what he said about the rearend. Of course, he's a mechanic and they tell you to replace everything. The only thing I'm sure about is my trans....

 

Well, like I said, my trans is dying, but I expected that. I broke two T5's with the 170 HP 305.
I did have my driveshaft balanced and replaced u-joints when I put the motor in, and I got a disc-brake posi rear out of a Z28,
that my friend rebuilt for me with 3.73 Richmond gears, new bearings and seals, a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve, axle tubes welded to the center section,and a Summit aluminum cover/girdle. So far no problems there.
I think it's good advice to get your trans gone thru, and the rearends in our cars are pretty weak, but a lot of it depends on how hard you're gonna drive the car. If you like to beat on it,
parts are gonna break sooner.
I did most of mine all at once, since it was all apart anyway.
-Rich-

 

Thanks for the info helped lot's I'm pretty set on this engine now but could someone answer my second question please?

"I want to put on L98 alum heads on it, is this a good idea or is there some reason I shouldn't or can't?"

 

I've been considering the Alum L98 heads for my 383 TPI project.

Going from cast iron L98s to alum, you'll increase the compression ratio abt 1. (I.E. 9:1 to 10:1).
Increasing the compression ratio will give you more power.
The alum heads x-fer heat better, which means you'll lose power due to the alum.
They seem to pretty much cancel each other out.

There is however a weight savings of abt 50 lbs.

The alum L98 don't have the EGR passages which may or may not be a problem for ya in Can.
The later alum L98s have a "D" shaped exh port which might cause problem with your current exh man/headers.

Other than that, they should bolt on.

 

I wouldn't do a head swap on a brand new crate engine as it would void the warranty... and that is the only advantage of a crate engine vs building it yourself.