Can anyone tells me what are good combo for a CARBURATED !!305 and the result numbers...

I mean heads, cam, intake, carb... without going into the block, keeping the stock crank, rods, piston ect...

I have a stock LG4 vin H it's too slow! So i'm looking into better parts, yes i would like to keep the 305... until it explode! -> not by abuse but mileage.

Thanx, i'll take note of all the combo you'll give me for future reference.

 

In the sig.

Similar to the "My Generation Camaro" build-up articles in Chevy High Performance, except I've got more cam, more porting, more stall, and less gear (hey, daily driver thing). Arguably better headers as well.

Oh, and no cheating like they did (read: NOx).

With their gears and slicks, I'm sure my corrected times would be quicker than their corrected times b/4 NOx.

Well, I'd need to get the tranny operating correctly, too.

Has 151k miles on it currently. Just under 8k since the mods.

 

five7kid thanx for you quick reply

my motor has 106k mile (i think, because 170k km), anyway....

the world 305 head you say, is that S/R Torquer from world casting? (i have just made a seach on world 305 head).

how much hp and torque you estimate? 240hp and 260torque maybe?
i would like to have closest to 300 hp & torque without going in piston and need to have hardened rods... without octane booster, and play safe not to kill the engine too...
i dont mind 250 :P

 

five7kid
i've just seen another post of yours, amazing numbers!!!
Right where i want to be
so
World 305 heads,
Crane PowerMax 2050 cam
zz3/4 is it for carb? or is it a customize intake "3/4"?
also what is DR/B rods/hanger? you've change rods and caps??
what about your piston?

Important question: did you rebuilt the block or just, open ,take out, put in, close

thanx, you dont mind if i copycat your specs :P well, i cant afford it this year but... i'm saving money for it

 

I had a pretty well running LG4 a bit ago.

I used the stock 416 heads, with a mild pocket porting, and polishing job, 3 angle valve job, decked, with the propper springs, all told cost me 390 bucks on headwork, port matched to the intake. the only thing i'da done different, is put vavle guides in.

Was running an edelbrock performer intake,

Stock Qjet with modifed linkage, dr/d hanger combo

stock computer, and chip, 10 degrees inital timing.

Summit 204/214 .420/440" lift cam

9.5 compression. 1.5" headers

2400 remaned converter,

3.42 gears

Sustpension work, (sfc's, boxed lca's, adjustable torque arm)

It would run 14.608 all day long on the too tall cheaters
and ran as well as a 14.38 @ 96 on street tires.


one regret.. not rebuilnding the short block...


Edit... with that stuff it'd get 18-19mpg round town, and over 25 on the highway.

 

The ZZ3 and ZZ4 crate motors used the exact same intake manifold - squarebore Holley/Edelbrock or spreadbore q-jets all fit. My intake happened to come off of a ZZ3. The oil pump and baffle/pan came from the same guy that the intake came from (he ran his floor jack into the original ZZ3 oil pan last year, got the SDPC ZZ4 take-off pump/pan/baffle, just used the pan - I paid him $40 for the parts he didn't use, banged out the dent, slapped it all on). I worded it the way I did to save sig space, that's all.

Except for the oil pump/pan/baffle and cam, I didn't touch the shortblock. Stock '86 LG4 flat-top pistons with valve reliefs. I considered ARP rod bolts, but removing old/installing new was too much hassle without disassembling the block.

The cam is the biggest/baddest computer-compatible Crane PowerMax flat-tappet cam in the Summit catalog. They don't mention "2050", that's on the cam card that came with it.

If the shortblock needs work, ditch it and go 350. I'm not kidding about that.

B hanger/DR rods are carb secondary tuning items. Not connecting rods.

Even the World heads (S/R Torquer 305) need some porting work to get the most out of them. But, it's worth it over porting stock heads, IMHO. Better castings, bigger valves, better chambers, screw-in rocker studs, better springs & valves. I paid $650 for the pair shipped unassembled with upgrade springs/retainers/seals from Competition Products. I understand the price has gone up a bit this year.

I typically get around 18 MPG commuting, 19-20 when I can keep my foot out of it for a whole tank (hard to do, you know). Haven't done much highway since the latest front end align, which did help the commuting MPG. Was 23-25 in mountain driving before the align.

I don't mind anyone copying. Sincerest flattery thing, you know. It took me 1-1/2 years to get all the pieces before I finally pulled the engine and put it together.

 

thanx five7kid, i'll look for thoses parts, and with my little canadian money it should not be cheap :P

In december i'm finishing my mechanic school class, so i hope i can found work at GM dealership (or maybe ford (no dont yell at me, lol)).
Still live at my parents house, funds will raise quickly then. Hope to be done next summer with the mods.

 

An '87 should have hydraulic roller cam. They are more expensive, but you'll be able to use your current lifters (assuming they're not trashed, which most aren't). In a CC carb setup, the biggest/baddest Powermax roller cam would work great as well. A little less duration and lift, but higher ramp rates so more power and higher RPMs possible.

 

k so i know the LG4 heads are crap... BUT.. right now i have them off. Would getting a complete valve job done on them and well as a nice port polish be worth it? or should i just break down and buy the World Products 305 Torquer heads for $315 each?? i really dont wanna spend that kind of money, but.. if i must then i must.

if i do decide to buy them, what kind of rocker arms should i be looking to purchase? the cam in my car IS NOT STOCK.. the car already has Gobs of power and i know the owner before me has put something else in there... so.. advice ASAP would be greatly appreciated

 

Sorry this isn't ASAP (well, sort of). I've been out-of-pocket.

You probably have 416 casting heads (mine did). They aren't that bad, and do respond to porting/polishing (and the Worlds need at least some of that). While you're at it, have the rocker arm studs replaced with screw-in type, and get better valve springs. You may come close to $630 by the time you're done, but will probably still be less than buying the Worlds and having them worked over (I did my own porting work to save money).

I like roller tip rocker arms just to reduce valve guide wear. Mine are Elgin, from Competition Products. The Comp Magnum roller tip rockers are a bit better (have them on the 396), but more expensive.

 

any suggestions for my little 305 five7 or Pony Killer? Or maybe some reasons as to why my car runs so slow with all the work i put into it. I did everything myself. I want to port my heads, get an LT1 cam, new roller rockers, rods, performer intake manifold, then engine/tranny rebuild and 3.42 gears. I'm hoping for 14's out of all that. It will probably take like a year of work though since i'm at school. Any suggestions on the cam/rods/rockers/manifold? Also, i was thinking of leaving the Q-jet on and getting new rods and hangers for it and a rebuild instead of buying a new one and having to get a new computer. Would the performance of a better carb be worth all that work? I've heard stock Q-jets are good for a lot of power. Thanks, oh and gas mileage would be nice.

~Matt

 

I've never heard glowing reports about Edelbrock cams except from Edelbrock. Go Crane or Comp, forget GM & Edelbrock (LT1 is roller, anyway). Just make sure it is computer compatible, and your CC q-jet will be quite happy. Personally, I don't understand why people are so quick to yank the CC q-jet, it can be made to perform and drive just fine. Rods and hanger changes should be assumed as part of normal performance tuning.

With more cam, you need higher stall from the torque converter. It may seem expensive, but it is well worth it.

Your gears will make you feel slow. You can do 3.23's or 3.42's easily without adverse effects on gas mileage.

Follow the Standard Abrasives Do-It-Yourself porting guidelines for the heads. They even use a 305 head in the pictures they include. 1.94" intake valves aren't a bad idea as part of the process, same for screw-in rocker studs and springs to match the cam.

 

Dont mean to sound like a dick or anything, but i am curious. Five7, when you said NOx, you meant nitrous, right? Isnt that oxides of nitrogen, as in one of the byproducts of an internal combustion engine? I thought nitrous was N2O? Is NOx still an appropriate abbreviation? Thanks
matt

 

hey matt, nice name. Are you going to the thirdgen meeting posted in my sig? If you haven't heard about it yet then check it out. If you can't go that's cool. See you around dude.

~Matt

 

You're right. Too much switching back & forth between emissions & power adders.