for those who removed the A.I.R. tubes
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 656
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From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Car: 91' Z28
Engine: 355-Supercharged
Transmission: 700R4
for those who removed the A.I.R. tubes
Ive got everything off minues the pump (leaving for now) and the aluminum tubes going to the cat, i really couldnt see well enough to figure out how to remove the tubes from the cat, do i just unscrew those two screws on the clamp and it will slide off, and how to i cap the cats afterwards so they dont leak ?
Thanks guys,
P.S. i think thats the single best mod ive ever done to my car, i can actually see some of the spark plugs now LOL
Thanks guys,
P.S. i think thats the single best mod ive ever done to my car, i can actually see some of the spark plugs now LOL
do u plan on keeping the cats like that? or u need a quick thing fix?
i would just crimp the air tubes right after it comes from the cats, that would be the quickest i think.
i would do that instead of taking the rest of the air tubes off and then worrying about finding something else to caps the cats.
i would just crimp the air tubes right after it comes from the cats, that would be the quickest i think.
i would do that instead of taking the rest of the air tubes off and then worrying about finding something else to caps the cats.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: IN THE LBC
Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Could you post some pictures after the removal of the AIR tubes. Also provide details on how to remove these parts.
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 656
Likes: 0
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Car: 91' Z28
Engine: 355-Supercharged
Transmission: 700R4
IROC,
I think by far the hardest part to remove is the aluminum A.I.R. tubes, after dissconnecting the rubber hoses and such from the diverter box (big ugly black box on the passenger side near the front of the motor it has wires going to it) you have your aluminum tube that goes behind the passenger side of the motor. Way way way back deep down there is a bolt that has a clamp that holds the tube to the engine block, you must remove this guy if you can. I didnt replace it when i pulled my motor in case i wanted to do this, so it was easy for me. Anyway you need to dissconnect that bolt, and remove the tube from the cat underneath the car. there are a series of clamps under the car too, try to fish it up through the engine compartment, going down will most likely be too hard, remember to clamp off the cats like MdFormula350 said, and plug your exhaust manafolds if you have stock or edelbrock with A.I.R connections, the cap is a 1/2 inch found at any locl hardware store. Of course the diverter box it was easy simply remove the two bolts down by the air pump, just follow the diverter box's metal tube down to the pump and you will see the bolts. (there might be a brace on the diverter box that has bolts too mine didnt) If you have any more questions id be happy to help, unfortunatly i dont have any pics, i might swing by today and take some for ya......
L8t3r
P.S. Hey MdFormula350, what should one do with the electrical connectors that came from the diverter box ? Thanks for your help !
I think by far the hardest part to remove is the aluminum A.I.R. tubes, after dissconnecting the rubber hoses and such from the diverter box (big ugly black box on the passenger side near the front of the motor it has wires going to it) you have your aluminum tube that goes behind the passenger side of the motor. Way way way back deep down there is a bolt that has a clamp that holds the tube to the engine block, you must remove this guy if you can. I didnt replace it when i pulled my motor in case i wanted to do this, so it was easy for me. Anyway you need to dissconnect that bolt, and remove the tube from the cat underneath the car. there are a series of clamps under the car too, try to fish it up through the engine compartment, going down will most likely be too hard, remember to clamp off the cats like MdFormula350 said, and plug your exhaust manafolds if you have stock or edelbrock with A.I.R connections, the cap is a 1/2 inch found at any locl hardware store. Of course the diverter box it was easy simply remove the two bolts down by the air pump, just follow the diverter box's metal tube down to the pump and you will see the bolts. (there might be a brace on the diverter box that has bolts too mine didnt) If you have any more questions id be happy to help, unfortunatly i dont have any pics, i might swing by today and take some for ya......
L8t3r
P.S. Hey MdFormula350, what should one do with the electrical connectors that came from the diverter box ? Thanks for your help !
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: IN THE LBC
Car: 1988 IROC CONVERTIBLE
Engine: 305 TPI PAXTON SUPERCHARGER & NOS
Transmission: T5
Could you post pics and supply details on how and what parts to remove when eliminating the AIR pump.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Queens, NY
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: Custom Forged 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" 4:11's Detroit Locker
i just did this, i used a cutting wheel and chopped away to smaller more, menagable peices
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I removed mine also. I had the heater box out so it was fairly easy to get to the bolt for the line that went behind the engine. I also took both valve covers off for more access and ended up using a sawzal to cut it.
I went from this...
To this

By putting in a non ac heater box, getting rid of the heater valve, getting rid of the AIR pump, diverter valve, and all the hoses.
I went from this...
To this

By putting in a non ac heater box, getting rid of the heater valve, getting rid of the AIR pump, diverter valve, and all the hoses.
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