Quick question, just want to know. Will a 327 out of a 67 Camaro putting out 300-350 hp, work with a Borg Warner T5 without ripping the **** out of it? I heard that the T5 is a decent tranny. My motor blew, so i need a new one and i am looking around for something with 300+ hp, but under 400. This is just gonna be my daily driver, but i still want more kick then the 305 had to offer. If te 327 isn't the engine you guys think i should put in the old f-bird. What is ?

 

The t-5's life span is directly proportonal to how you treat it. Beat on it and it will die. There are guys like me that blow one up with a stock motor and guys like rb83l69 that get years out of one behind a healthy 400. Treat it nice and it will work for a long time. But they do not last when they are abused.

 

If you drive it smoothly then it should be fine. You can drive it pretty hard with a T5. Its really heavy shock that breaks them, like clutch dumping and power shifting. So as long as you kinda take it easy off the line and through the gears, it should be fine.

Just a question... how do you know that 327 puts out 350hp? I just ask, because lots of people don't realise that the motors that had (327 - 350hp) or (350 - 300hp) on the decals on the air cleaner, really don't put out that much.

If its modified, thats different. Don't take it as criticism, I was just curious.

 

According to http://www.carnut.com/specs/gen/_chv61m.html
a 67 327 can put out anywhere between 210 and 350 hp depending on what engine you have of course. So Adam are you saying they lied about 350hp?

 

Dont' forget, thats gross HP, not SAE net HP. So even if it was 350hp at the time, it may be substantially less.

 

Its been rebuilt, and had some extra performace parts, and i belive he had it tested, though it may be an estimate. I cant be 100% sure untill i get it dyno'd. Either way, i would still love to get some motor in the 300-400hp region, be it 327 or 350 or other, i would love to get something that is as UN-LG4 as possible. (Yes, with enough money, the LG4 could be transformed into a good engine, but still) No $$$ for performace parts = hope for well built cheap engine.

 

I'll be swapping a 327 into mine this summer.
A few other guys have em too. They aren't the most popular motor... but then you weren't asking whether they're popular or not.
Personally, I've been impressed by some 327s, and I expect that I'll be impressed with mine when it's in.
In fact, I'm pretty excited.
I posted a similar ? last wk (gen eng tech) and someone showed me a dyno chart, I'd link you but my computer's acting funny this morn.
My car has an auto, wish I had a T5.
There's a 383 coming up later for when I want even more power, but til then I'm sure the 327 will be a big improvement and bunches o fun.

Good Luck

 

I didn't say that... I just wanted to point out that if it is a 327-350hp (which it very well could be) that the engines were rated much differently back then, and the HP numbers were higher than what the actual HP was, because it was measured differently. So if what he has is a 327-350hp, then I doubt it actually does put out that much net HP... that 350 was gross HP. Net is typically much lower. probably a bit below 300hp.

 

Yeah your probably right

 

this isnt bad ......this was my build before the 406, thAT is going in this weekend!!!finally!!!!!

 

Thats Gross HP though. It doesn't take into consideration the HP loss from driving the waterpump, alternator, or other accesories.

So, again, probably less HP.

 

True..And dd2000 can be a little generous at times......just a rough Idea.

 

True, when the factory slapped a horsepower rating on an engine back in the 60's, it was horsepower at the flywheel with no accessories. Now the horsepower is rated at the wheels with accessories (kinda makes you wonder what, say a Viper, would rate with the 60's way).
My 327 dyno'd at 589 horse at the flywheel with accessories (I did initial break-in on the dyno). When it was in my S10, I never got around to putting it on a chassis dyno. Now that I am putting in my Firebird I will do that just to see. The S10 ran a best of 9.89, but it is a much lighter vehicle.
Trivia: what is the definition of horsepower?

 

HP ratings on new cars are from the crank. Using the SAE net HP standards.

All accesories, with full exhaust. But its crank HP.

 

Depends on what ratings you are looking at. Trust me, I grew up in Lansing, MI and most of my family worked or still does work for GM (BOP) plant.

 

Name a car that rates it at the rear wheels? I should be pissed then when my 00TA but down 294 HP when it is rated at 305! I have never heard of a car being rated at the rear wheels, just underrated.

 

No cars are rated at RWHP. Just because a '00 Z28 was advertised at 300hp, and it made 300RWHP, does not mean thats how it was measured. Over the years, GM has been infamous for under-rating engines. The LS1 engines in those Z28s and TAs are the same as in the Corvette, which had 345hp, but without the good exhaust of the Corvette.

Main reason the HP rating was lowered, even with the same engine as the Corvette, is that GM doesn't want to have anything appear to be faster than the Corvette.

In the '80s, the TTA engine was HEAVILY under-rated by GM, as well as the L69 engine. Both cars (TTA and HO Z28) were much faster than a Corvette of the same year, yet they were rated at 10hp less than the Corvette (TTA-> 250 vs 260 i think, Z28-> 190 vs 205). The L69-powered Z28 and the TTA would spank a Corvette of the same year (84, 89) in the 1/4mi.

 

I hope that was an arguement aimed at Lonestar, not me. I totally understand that no cars are rated at the rear wheels, and GM does under-rate their engines to keep them out of Vette range.

 

I beleive it was intended towards Lonestar. Who despite his families background, is still incorrect.

All HP and torque numbers quoted by manufactureres are at the crank.

SAE Gross #'s are pretty much muscle car numbers. No accesories, carb tuned for performance, regardless how weather might affect it. The engine doesn't even drive its own water pump. And a straight un-restricted exhaust.

SAE Net #'s are with the engine driving all its own accesories, an exhaust with cats, and mufflers. Numbers are measured at the crank.

 

It wasn't really aimed at anyone in particular. I just wanted to post the facts.

 

My 94 Z28 is rated at 275 hp but at the rw it woud actually be arond 225..correct ?

 

Sounds about right.

 

Direct any argument you want at me, still depends on what ratings you are looking at. By the way, horsepower ratings that are made public will always show the Vette at the top of it's class. Don't be mislead into believing the factory does not run their vehicles on a chassis dyno and record the numbers, I have watched it done.
I have been blessed to have the opportunity to spend time in the engineering dept. and see some of the things that go on. The public only sees what they want them to see.

 

This is digressing horribly from the original topic, and from useful information.

The issue is how much torque a particular transmission can withstand, not published HP #'s. The factory rates transmissions by applying torque continuiously for 24 hours. So, flywheel net is the important # for this discussion.

However, you can still trash a tranny that's rated above your engine's max torque output by repeated 5000 RPM clutch dumps - in less than 24 hours.

Haven't seen the originator back here for awhile. I'd suggest any further responses address only his questions, or take it outside.

 

keep off the gas when you let the clutch out and it will live. The 327 isn't a torque motor, it's an rpm motor.

 

The 327 is a great motor I am building one now
I have a T-5 worldclass, is yours a regular is a big question
The original T-5 is kind of shaddy, the worldclass is a big step up
If you don't bang shifts it will hold no prob, 327's rev high to make power so it will have no problems.
Just my .02

 

bang shifts and burnouts are fun, but like he sad, the trans will loose teeth. I cleaned a saginaw out that way. Hit second and busted it so I hit third and broke that too. It was with a tight clutch and heavy flywheel, that didn't help. I saw some volkswagon guys with a little shock absorber on the clutch linkage, you could sidestep the clutch and the shock absorber would control how fast the clutch engaged. They said it really helped save parts and make their ET's more consistant.

 

Ok, thanks for the help, i have found the motor i am buying. A local rebuild shop will build me a 350, with 350 hp, guaranteed on a dyno, (from the wheels). All i need to do is buy an aluminum intake, 750 carb (though i will go with a 650, as i have heard it will make the car more responsive with better times then the 750, but 20 less hp on the dyno) and headers (which i have). Now with that hp rating, and the 350 engine, i am still safe i belive, with all the info you guys gave me. I have a regular T5 i belive, as it came (and still is in) my 83 Bird SE. I dont think the SE has a better tranny though.... If someone can give me a yup, that will work just fine, i will be quite happy....

 

a 350 with a torquey cam might be pushing your luck. easy on the clutch dude