Putting LT1 in without AC.. AC later.. need pics of K-member mod..
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
Putting LT1 in without AC.. AC later.. need pics of K-member mod..
I am forced to use LT1 Acc in my swap (lack of knowledge to fab something up for 3rd gen acc) .. It's $500cdn for a new AC Comp.. so I will opt for the $175 used.. Problem here is it has a 30day warranty.. and I will not have AC working in 30days
.. SO I will get the engine going without it for now.. and then get it going later.. SO... I need to mod my K-member blindly.. Anyone have pictures or advice on this? I have heat.. and a hammer.. where do I pound?
.. SO I will get the engine going without it for now.. and then get it going later.. SO... I need to mod my K-member blindly.. Anyone have pictures or advice on this? I have heat.. and a hammer.. where do I pound?
Last edited by Thirim; Mar 5, 2004 at 12:21 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=226657
I actually had to pound back further on the top of the xmember throughout that indent I was off by 2 mm at the top. Thats about how much you need, you will also need to modify the clamshell so it will clear the AC.
I actually had to pound back further on the top of the xmember throughout that indent I was off by 2 mm at the top. Thats about how much you need, you will also need to modify the clamshell so it will clear the AC.
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 690
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
give me a pretty good idea what and where to pound.. now abou this mod to the clamshell.. anyone have clear pics of that?
thanks.
thanks.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Ummm I just did give you a clear picture. Just pound everything above that was pounded in that picture, make that a smooth hole starting from the top. As far as the clamshell, its a bit hard to explain, go to TexasLT1's swap guide and check out the pictures there, I didnt bother grinding because I was at it for 2 hours and wasnt getting anywhere I took my clamshell to a welder and told them to cut out the hump and weld in a piece of straight metal.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 690
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
it was the clamshell i needed a picture.. texaslt1's pic is a bit hard to make out exactly what to cut.. Your pics were great... all that i needed. as far as cutting.. not a prob.. i have a torch, welder, grinder, chop saw.. sawzall.. something will do the job 
again...
thanks.

again...
thanks.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 1
Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Problem is corvette accessories run 450 bucks or so. Its not even bad to just heat up the xmember and pound it back, hell it took me 10 minutes. I got the clamshell done at a machien shope for 20 smackaroos, Free + 20 > $450. Now I would agree if you had a corvette engine to begin with though.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 690
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 LT1
Transmission: T56
can pretty much rule out the vette stuff.. You can count the # you see around in a summer on both hands.. and if one got wrote off... its sold b4 it gets out of the ditch..
then if you do find one... $$$$$$$$ for parts. I can't even get seats out of a 4th gen..
then if you do find one... $$$$$$$$ for parts. I can't even get seats out of a 4th gen..
There really are no plans or measurements we can give you. The best way, if you could do it, would be to drop the engine in until the compressor contacts the frame so you could see exactly where to clearance it. If you can't do that, you can get close enough by heating up the crossmember in the are above the motor mount where it angles down for the engine cradle, basically from the top edge of the motor mount, straight towards the frame rail about 6 inches. You only need about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance, it doesn't take much, even less if you are using new motor mounts.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Augusta Georgia
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 95 350 LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
I cut the part of the AC bracket off that goes to the engine mount hole in the block. when I bolted the clamshell on the block, what was left of the AC bracket was close enough to weld to the clamshell. I had to use capscrews and file some notches to be able to get to the bolts on the back of the compressor.
The best part was after I mated the clamshell to the AC compressor, I took the clamshel and compressor and put them on the motor mount and it was real easy to see where the frame had to be beat back.
The best part was after I mated the clamshell to the AC compressor, I took the clamshel and compressor and put them on the motor mount and it was real easy to see where the frame had to be beat back.
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