Well, im thinking about building a new engine within the next year and a half or so.. Im looking for around 400RWHP (around 475-500 at the crank) and i want it to be streetable. I've been playing around with engine combos and this is what I have come up with..

406:
Holley 750cfm carb (either keep my VS or get a DP - planning on a t56 swap too)
Edelbrock Performer rpm (Edelcrap.. any suggestions on a good flowing dualplane intake?)
Aluminum AFR 190 heads (looking for about 10.50 compression)
Comp Cams (roller) XR282 cam (Duration 230/236 @ 50*, 510/520 lift)

Desktop Dyno (not perfectly accurate, i know) gives me 480hp@5500rpm and 505ft-lbs@4000..

Im planning on updating my exhaust.. thinking Willie's system... Would my 1 5/8 hooker 2460 headers suffice or should I go with SLP 1 3/4 headers?

Tell me what you think and give me some suggestions!

 

What size rods? I really like the 282 in a solid flat tappet. And try looking into some aftermarket copanies that modify edelbrock manifolds. Or look into some of the Indy products, they amke some kick *** stuff.

 

400RWHP, thats like 475+ FWHP

you should get that easily with the Airgap, and a good set of headers..

maybe slp's 1 3/4 shorties.

CHP impersonator made 426hp@5000, and 525 ft lb@3500

im sure with the better cam and heads, youll get the 50 hp diffrence

 

so edelbrock makes good intakes then? and is Airgap an intake? I've heard it mentioned by i dont know jack about it..
Im not sure about the rods.. what would u suggest?

Do you guys have any other suggestions for different parts/cam?

 

i just purchased an air gap intake, they are recommended by almost everyone.

someone on this board had a performer rpm, and switched to a air gap and got 2 miles an hour faster just by the intake. i forget who said it.

 

woah, i guess i will prolly invest in an airgap

what about cams? u guys have any opinions? i think i want roller tho.. is there any advantage of flat tappet?

 

not bad for a price either, i got mine for 160 brand new.

summit sells them for 194

and when i said 2 miles an hour faster i meant 1/4 mile

 

Bang for buck.

 

so, power-wise, a flat tappet cam usually creates more power than a roller?

 

No, roller makes more because it doesn't take as much to turn a roller over vs a flat tappet

 

are a good set of roller rockers worth it? or would ni-chem coated do fine?

 

Since you're using the same word applied to two different parts, let's make sure we're clear on this.

"Roller cam" - the lifters have a roller that runs against the cam lobe. Requires a means to keep the lifter from turning, already done for you with an '87-up 3rd gen engine. Roller cams tend to make a little more power for a given lift/duration, but a cam made for roller lifters costs a lot more than one made for flat tappet lifters, and you can't mix & match them. Since you can get a flat tappet cam & lifters set for under $150, and a roller cam alone will typically cost you well over $250 (unless you buy a used one like one removed from a crate, and as long as the lifters haven't been ruined by neglect, you can reuse them on a new roller cam), that's why the flat tappet is better for the bang you get out of each buck spent.

"Roller rockers" - completely separate from roller cam requirements. Seldom make enough difference until you get into very high lift cams. Avoid the ones that cost about the same as roller tip rockers, they'll break on you. A roller tip type rocker such as Comp Cams Magnum rockers are typically all you need. For 400 RWHP, you're probably getting to the point where roller rockers might be worth it.

 

That's only a small part of it. Ramp rates are the real reason, meaning you can get the valves open quicker for a given lift and duration. However, valve float can be a problem, so you need to use appropriate valve springs for the cam/lifters you're using.

 

hehe, sorry i wasnt clear enough.. i was talking about the rockers on my last post, and i know what a roller cam/lifter combo is.. thanx for explaining it tho, the bang for a buck just wasnt sinking in like it should have

I plan on going with a fuller roller setup (lifers, cam, rockers )... but, since i plan on using a 400 block, its gonna cost me a good penny.. i would go with compcam retro-fit roller lifters, but at a $550 price, im gonna look elsewhere.. I'm also gonna look around at different places for a cam with similar if not the same specs because of the $363.67 price.. maybe get one custom ground.. i dunno

I would go with a 87+ 350 block and build a 383, but i really want to pretty much reach my goal of 400rwhp.. I dont know if i could do that with a 383 and keep it streetable.. and yes, the extra 30-40rwhp is gonna be worth it.. do it right the first time, i guess...

 

You should have no problem putting down 400 with a good set of AFR's and a good cam. I would call them, you might want to step up to a 210cc with a 406 motor. Also, you might want to step up to a larger cam also. It would be worthwhile to pick your head and call comp for their cam recommendation. As far as price, the cam you mentioned is only $246 from summit racing. FWIW, my 355 put down 350rwhp with the same cam and lesser heads (home ported 200cc sportsmans) with a single plane DFI intake.

 

man, if big blocks weren't such a problem in our cars i would just go with a 427bbc.. or if the block/crank werent so expensive, i would go with a 427sbc.. then i would easily be able to get way more than 400rwhp.. oh well..

so, u guys think i can reach my goal relatively painlessly? beside the pain in the wallet, that is

also, if i get my suspension straight (lca reloc. brackets, tubular lca's, beefed up sway bar, torque arm upgrade, good set of slicks - all Spohn besides the slicks), what kind of times do you think i should be able to pull off, if i either stick with my r4 and get a good stall/shift kit/ratchet shifter or get a t56 and shift good?