g_morin

hello everyone my name is Glenn and ive been into carrs all my life so i do know cars, downfall for most anyway ive done alot of import cars (no not hondas!) Ive taken pride in a 375+hp toyota supra and cars of that nature. But ive always like v8s on the back burner... sorry for the ramble but my question is with a 1986 T/A coming stock with a 305 carb what would be involoved in putting in a crate 327? No i dont battle the point that there better than other engines i just happen to like them with my father bringing me up 327 this 327 that. with the 305 tranny hold? is there anything i need to worry about? or is it pretty much plug and play? Thanks for any responce and sorry is this seems repetative bu i looked and didnt see alot of 327 swaps just debates on them.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Welcome to thirdgen.org.

The 327 (if it's a "real" 327) will have a 2-piece rear main seal crank and the dipstick will be on the driver's side. Not biggies, just things to be aware of.

What transmission do you have? If T5, it isn't going to hold up under the abuse a 327 can dish out. If a TH700R-4 automatic overdrive, it would be a good idea to rebuild it with some upgrades - the Transmission and Drivetrain forum has plenty of good information about that.

Stock exhaust is horrible. Plan on replacing all of it with headers & cat-back.

Other than that, if you keep the cam reasonable, the rest of the LG4 induction and ignition will hook up and run the engine just fine. You won't be out-running my 350, but you've already conceded that you're willing to sacrifice performance for novelty.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

As far as any kind of "difference" between installing a 327 and installing a 350, there is none whatsoever; they are all but identical.

There is no "novelty" to the 327. Quite the contrary. The real deal is, we all quit building 327s THE MINUTE we could get our hands on 350s for cheep; because if we took our money and spent it on a 327, someone else who took their IDENTICAL SAME money and spent it on a 350, would beat us. Period. No questions asked, no other options possible, no argument, case closed. 350 > 327 if the same $$$ is spent on both. So there's no "novelty" there. That's actually the OPPOSITE of "novelty", since the 327 was discontinued about 35 years ago, and RAPIDLY disappeared from the hot-rodding scene very quickly, because it was superseded and lost the race EVERY TIME.

But "novelty" doesn't always equal "smart". You can create a 327 out of ANY 350 by simply using a crank with a shorter stroke (3.25" instead of 3.48"), and pistons to match. Problem is, you spend EXACTLY the same money, or MORE if you wouldn't have had to buy a 350 crank; but you only get 327/350, or about 93%, of the end product (power). No improvement of any kind results.

Now I'll FREELY admit that I'm not the brightest bulb on the string, far from it in fact; but spending 100% and getting 93% is something that even someone as dumb as I am, can understand clearly, is a bad idea.

If you're "new to V8s", I would STRONGLY suggest that you do a little learning FIRST, and don't think that you're going to just walk in cold from the outside world and somehow re-write the rule book, and that no one has thought of stuff like that before.

g_morin

i thank you for the lesson, but i know the differences between the two, i know enough about cars. I clearly stated that i didnt want to debate the two engine i was mearly saying ive always wanted a 327? and my question from the start was what was involved in installation? but you did answer my question by saying there is no difference between a 327 and 350 installation i have helped with a 350 swap so i should be all set. thank you for your help.
glenn

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Forgot one detail - heads. The vast majority of 327 heads did not have the accessory bolt holes on the ends of the heads. If you re-use your 305 heads, you won't have any problems along that line.

The simple truth is your '86 carb 305 heads are highly superior to 95% of factory 327 heads, anyway. With 1.94" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves installed, and basic port clean-up, they'll support a 327 to very healthy power levels.

g_morin

the reason i ask all this is because i can have a 327 built with a bunch of goodies for 1800 bux 0 miles. and i can have it prepped for a 86 t/a i just wanted to know for my own general purposes what was needed. but from what i hear if its the same as a 350, a 350 bolts right up so i should be all set.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What heads are on the 327? That's the key difference.

What are you planning for exhaust? The stock 3rd gen exhaust manifold gets in the way of the driver's side dipstick.

g_morin

this is all the info on the engine i would be buying if i went 327 route, i mean if its gonna be a big pain in the a$$ ill go with a 350? but:
What comes with your Power 2® engine?
Here's a listing of the parts and machine labor for your
Power2® engine from Phoenix Engine Rebuilders.
YOUR POWER 2® ENGINE PARTS include:

• Power 2 cam kit
• Power 2 hydraulic lifters
• Power 2 spring set, heavy duty ( 900 series spring sets)
• Polished intake included
• Heavy Duty Stem steel intake valves
• Heavy Duty Stem steel exhaust valves
• Premium positive valve seals, polyacrylate
• Heavy duty roller timing chain
• Controlled internal oil system (a PER exclusive!)
• Heavy duty, high volume Melling oil pump
• Heavy duty steel collar oil shaft
• Heavy duty oil pickup screen
• High quality American Seal Power pistons
• PER® High Performance plasma molly rings SP
• Brass freeze plug kit
• High quality rear main seal double lip polyacrylate
• PermaTorque heavy duty gaskets and gasket set
• Main bearings, Tri metal, high quality
• Rod bearings, Tri metal, high quality
• New rod nuts installed
• Cam bearings, high quality 360 Set POWER 2® ENGINE MACHINE LABOR includes:
• PER 4-angle® valve job
• Mill-matching surfaced heads
• Heavy duty thick wall valve guides
• Valve guides custom cut for posi-seals
• Jet vat block and magnifluxing
• Remove and replace all freeze plugs
• Remove and replace gallery plugs
• Remove and replace cam bearings
• Custom centerline boring of block (true 90 degree V8 centerline)
• Power hone to fit pistons and rings
• Custom crank micro polish radius oil holes
• Rods pressed off, then heat fitted
• Rods checked for alignment
• Street balancing

g_morin

now does that included seem like a good deal for under 2 grand shipped? i thought it did i can get the 350 version of above for $100 bucks more? or the ZZ4 ive been readering about for almost 2 grand more! im gonna stay carborated, but like i said if the 327 isnt gonna be a breeze ill buy something that will be. all i know is the 305 is not something i want, a 327 is somethign ive always wanted but if i settle it would be for a 350.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

The other reason that the heads are mentioned above is that most 327 heads don't come from the factory with accessory bolt holes drilled. The above list leads me to believe that the factory heads will be rebuilt. Bad idea.

The two reasons to use your old 305 heads are 1.) All of your accessories will actually bolt up, and 2.) They flow better with more potential for modification.

Factory 327 heads will leave you with no place to mount the power steering, A/C, alternator, etc...,

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Get ahold of the outfit and ask them exactly what heads will be on the engine. Don't accept answers like "stock", "performance", "ported", "2.02", etc. Get the casting #, or if aftermarket, exactly what brand and model.

Ditto on the cam. "Power 2" tells you exactly zilch.

Ditto on the intake. "Polished"? What is that supposed to mean?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yea, that add has a lot of buzzwords, but not a lot of detail unfortunately. I think it's meant to sound shiny and fast without divulging info on what it is.
I'd be curious as to what their
refers to exactly.

Also, "quality" tri-metal bearings is a scary phrase. Theres basically all the main players in the game of bearings then there's cheap offshore stuff. Now if they really are using "quality" bearings, why are they afraid to say "Clevite" or "Federal mogul"? I'm worried when they just say "teh good stuff" sorta thing. I'd want brand names and part numbers on EVERYTHING on that list - $2000 is enough to spend that I expect details. $2000 is pretty cheap, so I would expect them to scrimp on some areas - and I wouldn't care too much. Engine tech moly rings are half the price of "name brand" ones, and do the same job - no biggie. Many other parts are like that, but i'd still want to know.

g_morin

maybe ill just end up getting a factory built zz4... seems less wiery and will bolt right up with no worries.