Please convince me to buy an LT-1 for $350 for my 89 RS 5.0. Gas mileage is really important, as is driveability...and I can't even tie my shoes, so maybe I'll just buy it and save it for when I'm technically adept, then try swapping it in...how much is the swap total cost? Thanks...

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'89 RS LO3- 140,000 miles
14x3 K&N Open Element
Ram Heavy Duty clutch (yes, I think it's great)
Dual .50 caliber machine guns just under ground effects

Coming very soon:
Edelbrock TES (Jet-hot coated)
Catco cat
Edelbrock 3" Cat-back
KYB shocks
Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace
South Side Machine subframe connectors

When your buddy reaches for a 10-pound sledge and says "I think we're gonna have to modify the floor pan, okay?" the answer is NO.

 

I haven't got my conversion finished yet,but the 4th gen cars can get high 20s on the highway and probably 18-20 in traffic.
Where in the world did you find an lt1 for 350 dollars?
The swap is a great one, but its not cheap.
Is your car a tpi already?
How many miles on the lt1?
does it have a harness and ecm?
If you have questions I'll try to help.
This isn't exactly a hard swap, but it might be a bit much for a first timer.
I'm not saying you could't do it but you have to think, how long do I want to be without my car.
It would probably take you at least a couple months to get it all sorted out.
Just my opinion.
Kory- lt1 swap in progress

 

hey, i did the LT1 swap into my '92 RS and I love it. I'm 16, and my dad and I finished the whole thing in about 6 weeks, maybe less, more if you count getting out all the little bugs and stuff. It wasn't incredibly hard, but it wasn't easy either. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again though. right now I'm getting about 18 mpg in the city with quite a bit of heavy footing, If I took it wasy I might bet 19, but I've never had it on the highway long enought to know what kinda mileage I would get on it. we got the engine for $1500 complete with ECM and wiring harness, and I've heard that was a great deal. overall it cost about $2500 because I had to buy a new clutch, get some of the hoses and lines made, and just a bunch of minor things that we needed (new VATS module). like I said though, I love it and I'm really glad we made the swap. good luck if you decide to do it

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-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil

Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra

Losses
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)

 

Texas, did you put in a T56, too? I'd LOVE to get an LT1 instead of my ol' LO3...but I'd probably sit it in the garage for a couple years until I know what I'm doing...I'm pretty clueless. Anyway, this guy told me there are several hundred dynoed LT1s sitting somewhere for $350 each, 100k miles. I'm betting no wiring or ECM...but I'm checking it out anyhow. I can IMAGINE how much fun it would be to burn the GTs with my RS!

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'89 RS LO3- 140,000 miles
14x3 K&N Open Element
Ram Heavy Duty clutch (yes, I think it's great)
Dual .50 caliber machine guns just under ground effects

Coming very soon:
Edelbrock TES (Jet-hot coated)
Catco cat
Edelbrock 3" Cat-back
KYB shocks
Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace
South Side Machine subframe connectors

When your buddy reaches for a 10-pound sledge and says "I think we're gonna have to modify the floor pan, okay?" the answer is NO.

 

Kory, sorry for the double post...no, it's TBI right now...pretty much stock (sig). Anyway, just how much of a big deal is this swap? I hear words like "fuel lines", "fabrication", and even "welding" and begin to shake involuntarily...just how big of an idiot could I be and still pull this off?

------------------
'89 RS LO3- 140,000 miles
14x3 K&N Open Element
Ram Heavy Duty clutch (yes, I think it's great)
Dual .50 caliber machine guns just under ground effects

Coming very soon:
Edelbrock TES (Jet-hot coated)
Catco cat
Edelbrock 3" Cat-back
KYB shocks
Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace
South Side Machine subframe connectors

When your buddy reaches for a 10-pound sledge and says "I think we're gonna have to modify the floor pan, okay?" the answer is NO.

 

Hey TexasLT1, you need to post some pictures of your swap somewhere. Make a webpage or something. That would probably help a lot of these guys out. Like Texas said though, I love my LT1 too, and for what trouble I had, It was sooo worth it. If you want to see a few pictures of what I did to my car you can check out my website. Be warned though, I took my car apart more than most people do because I didn't want to scratch the fenders and it also got the hood out of the way. The interior came out so I could get the subframes done. So if you wonder why I pretty much gutted my car. That's why. Go here to see some early pictures. I'm going to get pictures of the finished swap soon. www.angelfire.com/tx/brune Email me if you have any questions. fredbrune@hotmail.com

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'92 RS convertible with LT1/t56, slp headers, 3" high flow cat, 3" flowmaster w/2.5" outlets/reprogrammed computer, k&n filters, "modified" eibach springs, kyb shocks&struts, polygraphite bushings, custom subframe connectors, and 4.10 gears.

 

The fuel lines can be made from an-6 ends and about 6 feet of braded hose, along with fuel rail adapters. The high pressure side adapter must be welded to the fuel rail (any welding shop can do that for a few bucks) The power steering hoses can be made a hydraulic shop ( I'll post prices when I get mine done) The vats can be taken off by any custom programming business ( I think that mustgofaster.com is the cheapest) I plan on having them do mine. You can use your stock radiator with differant hoses. I recomand (msp) sending your harness out to have it custom fit for a 3rd gen(mine cost 325 dollars from fuel injection specialties)
A tbi car will need an efi pump,sender,and lines. These could come with the lt1 if you ask. If you couold get the sending unit,pump and complete flex lines from the doner car (don't cut the lines) This would save money even if it cost 200 dollars.
Texas lt1 told me how to dent the frame to keep the ac. Thant is a great and easy fix for the accessory drive.
Thats all I can think of for now. I'll post more later when I get tine.
Kory

 

Baron-
no, I did not put in the T-56, but now I do, I'm afraid Im going to break something in my stock T5

Fredo92-
right now Im trying to get ahold of a digital camera and then I have some thoughts about putting together a site for it, I even had the crazy idea of making a kit for it with all hoses, lines, and wiring diagrams in it. it would be great but I know it will never happen

Kory-
actually, I didn't weld a single line, for the power steering I used the stock pressure line, the one that makes a loop, cut the end, and my dad found this fitting called a Swedge-Lok or something, but with it you dont have to flare or tap or anything to the lines, just put the two pieces on and screw them together. for the fuel lines, we used the plastic lines that came with the engine and the stock hard lines on the car. to mate them I think we got like an AN fitting or something and screwed on a fitting that tapers and has ridges on it, cant remember the name, but then pushed the plastic line up to it, put a heat gun on it, and pushed it right on. It wont come off now without cutting it, trust me, we had to take them off once. for all of the coolant lines we basically cut up some of the old ones and got one new one. a word or caution, doing the electrical yourself is a b*tch unless you have a degree in electrical engineering or something. I got lucky because my dad does, but anyway. after about a week we finally figured out the whole VATS thing and got the new module, but that was basically the only major thing for the wiring. other than that, there are literally about 5 wires to splice.

any other questions though just e-mail and I'll see what I can do. yeah, it was pretty hard, but man was it worth it!

------------------
-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil

Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra

Losses
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)

 

Thanks for all your input, fellas...I really appreciate it...just one more thing. I know a guy that's got like 1000 LT-1s sitting there, and he's selling them...apparently, they've all got like 100k on them, but they're dynoed...what should I look for in a used LT-1? I really don't want to spend money on an engine that's gonna crap out as soon as I get it in...so any info could help. Thanks again, guys!

------------------
'89 RS LO3- 140,000 miles
14x3 K&N Open Element
Ram Heavy Duty clutch (yes, I think it's great)
Dual .50 caliber machine guns just under ground effects

Coming very soon:
Edelbrock TES (Jet-hot coated)
Catco cat
Edelbrock 3" Cat-back
KYB shocks
Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace
South Side Machine subframe connectors

When your buddy reaches for a 10-pound sledge and says "I think we're gonna have to modify the floor pan, okay?" the answer is NO.

 

Check the oil if there is any in it. see if it is just black or milky(bad head gasket possibly) The opti spark distributor tends to need replacing at around 60k. fyi the opti costs around 300 dollars to replace. if its together its harder to check, I bought mine out of a running trans am, which had been rolled a few times. 3 to 4 hundred is a great price for an lt1 if it runs or not (as long as its rebuildable) The heads tend to go for 2 to 3 hundred used. Alot of guys are looking for a set of heads to port while the still want to drive their cars.
I'm sure there are a few other things to look for, but as long as the motor is relatively complete I would say go for it. You could probably piece it out and at least get your money back.
If you don't mind where is it that you can get these engines? I would like a spare to build as a stroker.
Thanks, Kory.

 

i've got 105K on my original non-vented optispark. make sure you know what year the engine is. you want a '95 and above engine. they switch the type of opti from non-vented to vented in '95. if you were ever to do a cam swap in the 93 or 94 models like mine, i would have to swap to the later year opti so that i could get a heavy duty timing chain. the only chain available for the 93 and 94 LT1's is the stock one and it isn't very strong. hope this helps a bit.

Chris