305 CC to 350 Noncc
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Car: 1990 Iroc,02 ws6,74 corvette
305 CC to 350 Noncc
i have an 85 z with a blown 305 computer controlled dropping in an early model 350 mid 70's. on the passenger side the last bolt on the exhaust does not line up what headers y pipe combo would i need to use? will i also need to change to non computer controlled distributer and carb. what lock up kit would someone recomend for the 700r4 that is easy and cost effective to install? any help on this would be appreciated.
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
Don't have personal experience with that last bolt hole issue, but Hooker and Hedman make excellent headers that fit the car, although you may want to call them to check on them mating to your heads. What heads do you have anyway?
You can keep the CCC system on your new 350 it will work fine. You may only need to adjust the carb for proper dwell once installed and add better secondary rods and hanger.
You can keep the CCC system on your new 350 it will work fine. You may only need to adjust the carb for proper dwell once installed and add better secondary rods and hanger.
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Car: '70 Bronco, '91 Firebird, '03 Chevy
Engine: roller 302, 350 TB, stock 6.0
Transmission: NP435 Granny 4 spd, 700R4, 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 4.56 spool, 2.73 open, 4.10 broken
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
There shouldn't be any difference in bolt patterns. Did you tighten all the other bolts before trying to screw the last one in?
I don't know how new you are to wrenching but a simple basic rule is to just start all bolts leaving them loose until they are all started. Then snug them all down, & finally tighten them.
If there is enough misalignment you may want to take out some or all of the other bolts and start with that one 1st. If you're still having trouble you may want to try removing the header (or whatever else you are bolting on in the future) and make sure the bolt screws in on its own. (To assure the threads are not damaged.)
I don't know how new you are to wrenching but a simple basic rule is to just start all bolts leaving them loose until they are all started. Then snug them all down, & finally tighten them.
If there is enough misalignment you may want to take out some or all of the other bolts and start with that one 1st. If you're still having trouble you may want to try removing the header (or whatever else you are bolting on in the future) and make sure the bolt screws in on its own. (To assure the threads are not damaged.)
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Car: 1990 Iroc,02 ws6,74 corvette
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
actually on the passenger side manifold rear the final bolt i almost an inch longer the heads i figured sometime in 80's they mustve changed this. my 74 vette has the same head exhaust ports as the heads i am currently using since i need a o2 to stick with stock CCC which is the route id love to take i am unsure which manifolds/headers to use... what ramifictions would i have with running with 5 exhaust bolts instead of 6?
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Car: '70 Bronco, '91 Firebird, '03 Chevy
Engine: roller 302, 350 TB, stock 6.0
Transmission: NP435 Granny 4 spd, 700R4, 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 4.56 spool, 2.73 open, 4.10 broken
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
Proof read much? Its kinda hard to fully understand what you are saying.
Do you mean the bolt is longer than the rest of them? Or does it stick out an inch more after threading in? There are sometimes longer bolts towards the front that are used with spacers to attach the power steering and alternator type brackets. Have you tried another bolt in that hole?
I'm not really an encyclopedia on cylinder heads but I'm pretty sure the exhaust flange never really changed throughout the years.
And running only 5 bolts.. How about a really annoying tick tick tick all the time leading up to a louder annoying exhaust leak sound. Its hard enough to keep a SBC from having an exhaust leak with all the bolts.
Do you mean the bolt is longer than the rest of them? Or does it stick out an inch more after threading in? There are sometimes longer bolts towards the front that are used with spacers to attach the power steering and alternator type brackets. Have you tried another bolt in that hole?
I'm not really an encyclopedia on cylinder heads but I'm pretty sure the exhaust flange never really changed throughout the years.
And running only 5 bolts.. How about a really annoying tick tick tick all the time leading up to a louder annoying exhaust leak sound. Its hard enough to keep a SBC from having an exhaust leak with all the bolts.
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Car: 1990 Iroc,02 ws6,74 corvette
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
sorry i was half asleep during the last post....My problem is as follows. the passenger side exhaust manifold (off of the stock 305) does not line up correctly with exhaust port 8. From front to back bolt hole number 6 is about an inch farther back on the factory 305 head then the 350 i am currently using..i know this sounds cryptic but is the only way i know to explain it
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Car: 83 camaro l69
Engine: turbo lsx
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: disk rear, 10bolt.
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
i did this a while back and had no problems my 305cc flamed on so i just went to a 350 carb. and got rid of that computer and all the wires that were not needed.
Last edited by toolegit86; 11-23-2009 at 01:53 PM.
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Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Re: 305 CC to 350 Noncc
Did you read through the post I linked? It directly addresses your issue with several solutions offered.
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
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Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Keep the CC carb. Removing it for a street-driven car for a non-CC carb is just silliness.
Those 70's 350 factory heads are absolute junk. Pull the heads off of the 350 and put on the 305 heads. Make sure the valves weren't damaged when the 305 was "blown". You will then be able to bolt up the restrictive 305 exhaust manifolds.
Or, you could read naf's original post and do the smart thing.
Actually, putting the 305 heads on the 350, getting headers, and keeping the CC system would be the smartest combo of all.
Those 70's 350 factory heads are absolute junk. Pull the heads off of the 350 and put on the 305 heads. Make sure the valves weren't damaged when the 305 was "blown". You will then be able to bolt up the restrictive 305 exhaust manifolds.
Or, you could read naf's original post and do the smart thing.
Actually, putting the 305 heads on the 350, getting headers, and keeping the CC system would be the smartest combo of all.
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