Take engine and trans out as one???
Take engine and trans out as one???
I have an 89 GTA and this winter I am going to pull the engine and trans out to rework them.My friend says to remove them as one unit. Is this the best way to go? Should I put all the bolt on parts on the engine when I put it back? Which is easiest to bolt everthing on 1ST or put in the stripped engine and bolt everything after it is in? Thanks guys.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
Likes: 0
From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
if you can, take them out as one, put all new stuff on the engine, get the tranny a makeover, put back together, then put back in car. Alligning the input shaft on the pilot bearing sucks when the tranny's allready installed.
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$150.00 2.8 Auto.
short block now
turbo eventually, 3.4 may be in the future
Giving the enemy the opportunity to die for their country
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$150.00 2.8 Auto.
short block now
turbo eventually, 3.4 may be in the future
Giving the enemy the opportunity to die for their country
Senior Member


Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 629
Likes: 10
From: New Yuck
Car: Non F-body :(
Engine: Pontiac 301
Transmission: TH350
Pulling the engine and transmission together tends to be simpler than separating them; if you're going to be working on both it's highly recommended.
If you're going to do this you want to get a tilt-leveler to assist you with this task.
If you're going to do this you want to get a tilt-leveler to assist you with this task.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
i would definitely take them out as one. without a doubt.
just be prepared for the tranny fluid that will POUR out of the tranny what the driveshaft is taken out.
i wouldnt put that much on the engine other than the intake if i was you. especially the distributor because it can easy bump the firewall during installation and mess things up. also, i tried headers installed and it wouldnt go. all the accessory stuff should probly stay off too just because of clearance problems.
but, you can get away with the balancer..thats not a problem, and it will save you a fun tim of putting them on when the engine is already in.
-brian
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1991 Camaro RS
GMPP 350 HO crate engine - 454 TBI, MSD ignition, SLP exhaust, everything is new
700R4 - 2,400 stall converter, vette servo, shift kit
My car's webpage - z28boy.cz28.com
President - Central New York F-Body Association
Email - z28boy@twcny.rr.com
AIM - "Z28 Boy"
just be prepared for the tranny fluid that will POUR out of the tranny what the driveshaft is taken out.
i wouldnt put that much on the engine other than the intake if i was you. especially the distributor because it can easy bump the firewall during installation and mess things up. also, i tried headers installed and it wouldnt go. all the accessory stuff should probly stay off too just because of clearance problems.
but, you can get away with the balancer..thats not a problem, and it will save you a fun tim of putting them on when the engine is already in.
-brian
------------------
1991 Camaro RS
GMPP 350 HO crate engine - 454 TBI, MSD ignition, SLP exhaust, everything is new
700R4 - 2,400 stall converter, vette servo, shift kit
My car's webpage - z28boy.cz28.com
President - Central New York F-Body Association
Email - z28boy@twcny.rr.com
AIM - "Z28 Boy"
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Drain all fluids, including the tranny, before you start pulling them out. Use a tilt sling to help ease them out (and in, for that matter).
I had headers on for my last install, but the tranny stayed in this time (engine only). I had the exhaust manifolds on when I did the engine & tranny together. It might make a difference with header brand, but I don't think it would have mattered if I had been doing engine/tranny together with headers on. Certainly was easier than putting the headers on with the engine in the car.
I'd second the intake manifold on, distributor out. I put all sensors on as well, but not the starter.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
I had headers on for my last install, but the tranny stayed in this time (engine only). I had the exhaust manifolds on when I did the engine & tranny together. It might make a difference with header brand, but I don't think it would have mattered if I had been doing engine/tranny together with headers on. Certainly was easier than putting the headers on with the engine in the car.
I'd second the intake manifold on, distributor out. I put all sensors on as well, but not the starter.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I take back that "all sensors" statement. The oil pressure sender sticks out in harm's way. Fairly easy to remove or install while the engine's in.
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I just finished puting in a new engine in my '86 bird. Five7 dude gave me some good advice too. I left off everything during the install except intake and balancer and fuel pump (mechanical in my setup). Cover all the holes in the motor with duck tape or something suitable! Leave off the pressure sender gizmo, it'll break too easy.
As for headers, I bought the edelbrock TES and they slip in pretty easy. As it turned out for me, only the drivers side needs to be in place before installing the engine. The passenger side fits in with no problem once the engine is sitting on the mounts. I plan to install everything else a little at a time - no rush here.
good luck
gene
As for headers, I bought the edelbrock TES and they slip in pretty easy. As it turned out for me, only the drivers side needs to be in place before installing the engine. The passenger side fits in with no problem once the engine is sitting on the mounts. I plan to install everything else a little at a time - no rush here.
good luck
gene
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