Hello. I just landed a 1984 z28 camaro. Long story short, my brother conned me into driving it for a day, ended up getting into a fender bender, and he ended up getting my Mazda which he had been nagging me for for a while. Lucky him right? Ok, well now I have a 305 which burns a quart of oil a week, a busted front end, and a strong desire to make something of it.

I think I can fix most of the damage with a hammer and good old fashion hard work bending things back into place. the front passenger side bumper and the metal beneath is kinda pulled forward and down. And the passenger fender is in a few inches. The main bar that runs across the front is bent right by the passenger fender, not sure if I can bend it back, but it's not too bad. Input would be appreciated. Will post pics soon..


Now , I have a friend who says he knows someone with a 350 half installed in a mid 80's truck. He said it was a project which had been abandoned when his friends father passed away. I don't know all the facts about this engine yet, but what I do know is it's supposedly got 0 miles since it was rebuilt and the guy only wants $300 for it. I'm thinking SCORE!, but I need to make sure it'll be compatible with my drive-line. I know the t5 isn't best for it, but I also have heard that as long as I'm nice to it, (Which I plan to be) that it shouldn't be a problem. I know someone who ran 600+hp through one for a while before upgrading internals.

My main concern is that I've heard there are different types of rear seals? Don't even know what that means exactly. Kinda new at this. I need to know how I need to go about finding out what type I have, and what type the 350 has, and how to make them pair up if they differ. I know the 305 I have is a 4bolt main according to my brother. Thats about all I know. Also, I don't know if the 350 is carbureted or not. If its not what do I need to do to make it work with my computer being as mine is.

 

All the bolt holes are in the same places. Just put it in and if the fly is different just put the right one on. The swap is easy. You can do it.

 

Ok sweet. Thats what I was hoping. So do I have to worry about the type of injection the engine has?

 

Not really what is on the new motor?

 

Not really what is on the new motor?

 

No idea yet. I talk to the guy tomorrow. But I'm pretty sure its gonna be stock and carb'd. It'd be nice if they threw some performance parts in it when they rebuilt it. But I doubt it. But the way I figure it, even stock it'll be faster, not to mention if it's newly rebuilt I won't have to worry about it breaking down on me. Unlike the current quart of oil a week blasting smoke out the back 305 I have lol. Not to mention, $300. I haven't been in this game long, but I'm pretty sure thats a damn good price for a rebuilt engine. Used junk yard engines are about that price.

 

A complete factory rebuild kit for a small block's rotating assembly + cam is $200-300. It's a fair price, some people just think their stuff is worth more for some reason.

 

Sounds like a winner LOL when you get it let us know What its got but like I said it all bolts up only thing I can think of off the top of my head is to check the intake bolts ie. Pre-86(ish) all the bolts ha e the same angle 87-newer the center two bolts are straight up.

 

Ok, so the guy isn't sure if he can still get it for me. Apparently the guy who was gonna sell the truck to him is backing out, but he's gonna try to get the engine at least for me.

Also, my friend has a 454 for $400, but he doesn't know anything about it. Not sure how much work it'd be to put that in, especially since I wanna keep a Manuel tranny. Nor do I know if it's worth the risk since I have no idea how used the engine is.

I'd really like to get a 327 or 350 so I can just drop it in. Any idea's on where to get a decent one cheap in case this falls through?

 

I wouldn't do the big block 500$ header and a bunch of weight in the nose not to mention the t-5 would die LOL as far as getting a small block check the local paper Craigslist tgo classifieds and it doesn't hurt to check with the machine shop you might find one the someone has left there and the shop will sell it at a better price
Good luck

 

Ok. Well if the 350 falls through and I can't find a comparable one for similar price. I'm either going to buy a cheap 350 and rebuild it. Or simply rebuild the 305 I have now. What exactly is involved in that and what would you suggest I do?

 

Ok. I found a 350 from a 79 blazer for $100. The guy says it needs a rebuild and that it was pouring oil out of the valve covers and a few other spots as if it wasn't draining back into the crank case . He said he thinks it was due to bad cams that were in it. Not sure if that could be the cause and what kinda damage that would have done. But I found some mean cams for $75 new in box http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=73&sb=2

I also found some decent rods for $20
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1731867374.html

Would it be a good idea to jump on these deals? I just don't want to get started and find out I need new heads or something like that.

 

A big block doesn't add that much weight. If you delete AC, use aluminum heads, and a fiberglass cowl hood (you'll need a cowl hood of some sort to fit the BBC, anyway), you'll be back close to factory weight.

The '79 engine may be a decent core. Figure on only using the shortblock, as the heads are bound to be bass boat anchors. Your 305 heads, rebuilt, would run circles around the '79 heads. Vortecs would be even better.

If you get those rods (or even if you don't), consider a set of ARP rod bolts. Cheap insurance. My '86 LG4 305 came from the factory with X rods. Yours may have them as well.

 

So I can reuse my 305 heads? What do I have to do to rebuild them and how much would it cost.

And why are they better than the 79 heads?

 

The 305 heads have smaller chambers, and may or may not have smaller intake valves than the '79 350 truck heads. To rebuild them, take them to a machine shop and have them do a "valve job". They will know what to look for and what to do. Generally, this involves disassembly, soaking/cleaning all the crud off/out of them, checking for wear, checking the valve springs, grinding clean surfaces on the valves and valve seats, and assembling with new valve seals. Generally this will cost somewhere between $150-$200, although prices vary by shop and location. If you need other work, such as replacing valves and/or valve guides, that will raise the cost. Upgrading valve springs is a good idea, but again will add to the cost. For a 350, 1.94" intake valves help the heads to breathe a little better, but again, this will raise the cost.

Even without upgrades, your '84 305 heads have much better ports and therefore will make more power than '79 350 truck heads.

 

so smaller chambers and valves are better?

 

It will raise your compression and help build torque at lower RPM's(below 5000)

 

The 305 has 1.84 valve (think that's the big factory valve) small intake / exhaust runners. And like duckman said will bump the compression up. A set of 882 or what ever 350 head would be better especially if you run a cam that's bigger then stock.

I had a 350 with 305 heads and it had no power at the higher rpm but down low it was OK.

 

Well If I do this set up I'm going to be putting in the comp cams I found grind number 268H. I heard they're the meanest I can get without changing a whole lot, and I found them for 75 new from some girl cleaning out her husbands stuff, is that a good deal? And that I still might need new springs or something.

So If I use those cams I should stick with the 350 heads right?



Ps. sorry if I'm asking a lot of noobie questions. I'm trying to learn all this.

 

Yeah 268 is a good cam. And for 75$ I'd buy it. I think you would need different valve springs but the shop can check what you've got and let you. For the heads I'd use 350 heads

 

Ok. But I don't plan on using a shop. I plan on doing all the work myself. Thats why I'm trying to collect all the info I need.

 

You should take the heads to a shop they can clean them up and make them look like new plus they can check for cracks and you will get the right springs for the cam

 

Ok. I guess I'll take the heads to the shop. I think I need them machined anyway when I replace the head gasket.

 

NO!!!! Those '79 heads very likely could be 882's, and they are HORRIBLE! The 416 casting 305 heads are MUCH better.

Some truck 350s in the 70's had 1.72" intake valves. No 3rd gen 305 had intake valves that small.

Don't blame that on the 305 heads (unless they were the non-3rd gen 305 heads, some of which had 1.72" intake valves).

 

I think I might just hold off on the 79. I found a 1990 almost complete 350, i just have no idea how much work it'll take to get it to work.

 

The 90's block will fit no problem. the heads will have a little different bolt pattern but you can get an intake to fit that and put a Carb on it. Or put "old style" heads on it. Like I said all the bolt are in the same place just switch the parts to suit your application

 

Ok. So I've still yet to succeed in reading the casting numbers off the back of the engine. Still trying though, Gonna have my skinny friend try lol. But anyway, I noticed I have a pully driven fan. I know the 84z28 HO's came with an electric fan, but since the mount for the fan is painted yellow, and there is no fan shroud I'm thinking it could've just been added to replace a broken electric fan.

But what has me thinking, is that right before My brother gave it to me he had destroyed a 2001 gt mustang. Now correct me if I'm wrong but 4-5 car lengths is a lot to beat a lighter more powerful car by. I mean the 305HO has 170hp and the 2001 gt has 260. I mean it was an auto, but my brother can't speed shift anyway so it was even lol. Oh, not to mention the thing burns a LOT of oil. Almost a quart a week according to my brother. So I'm thinking it might not have full compression either.

What do you guys think?

 

The L69 305 HO had 190 HP. What's the 8th character of the VIN?

I think the Stang wasn't trying very hard.

 

Oh no, the stang was definitely trying. Some cocky kid he knows who thinks mustangs are the greatest lol.

The 8th character is G

 

Why. what does the G mean?

 

The G means your engine is an L-69 HO motor. If it was an H it would be the Lg4.

L-69 = 190 HP
lg4 = 155HP

L-69's came with the 416 heads so you can use these heads on a 350 block with good power numbers.

 

Ok, so finally got to the casting number. It's 14010201 so I do have the stock engine in there. But considering how fast it is, i have a feeling something is done to it. But none the less, being as its the stock motor i Want to do a 350 swap.

 

I looked it up and got light truck 305

 

14010201 = 1980-1984 305 140 190 2 bolt car, truck.
14014416 = 1980-1984 305 1.85in 1.5ex 62cc w/bolt holes 4bbl.
the heads I've seen vary from 60cc-64cc.

 

I don't know much about heads at all. What does all that mean?

 

416= head casting #
1.84intake valve, 1.5 exhaust valve
60-64cc = combustion chamber size

 

LG4's got the 416 heads as well.

The L69 has the better cam, exhaust, air cleaner, and factory tune.