newZman

I just found what I think is good deal on a 95 350 from a pickup. Will that swap in okay asside from the typical requirements for the LT1 swap?

1badeagle

iTrader: (2)

its not a lt1 it its in a truck. Probably just a tbi. Correct me if im wrong.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

If it is the original engine, it is a TBI 350. I think the Vortecs didn't even start until 97, IIRC.

But yeah.....A 95 TBI 350 could be swapped in.

newZman

It sounds like it is a TBI not an LT1 then...

Is the TBI 350 worth swapping in or would I be better off waiting for an LT1?

Thanks for your responses.

camaronewbie

Me personally, owning a 1997 Z28 LT1 - I'd avoid the LT1 - PITA motor. Do 350 TBI, or go LSx.

1badeagle

iTrader: (2)

Ditto. I had a bad fast lt1 in my car and hated the opti crap. Get a 5.3 and swap it in.

newZman

I think I will go with the TBI upgrade if it gets better gas mileage than a carb setup, I cannot afford to go all out LSx upgrade.

Will the T-56 trans bolt up to the TBI without adapter plates or do I have to get the old bell housing from the T-5 and adapt it to the tranny like if I were bolting it up to an early 350?

If this thing will bolt up to the T-56 I think I'll go for it.

1badeagle

iTrader: (2)

depends. Do you have a lt1 t56? I think you will still need the other flywheel

newZman

I do not have either a motor or trans yet. The deal I found is a motor w/wire harness and 700R4 transmission. I am thinking I will probably get rid of the 700R4 and get a T-56 for it.

Am I correct in guessing the LT1 t-56 will bolt up with out special adapter plates?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I "corrected" this thread title and moved it to the "regular" engine swap forum since you now know you don't have an LT1.

To me, converting to TBI would be a lot of maze for very little cheese. Put the 350 long block under your factory carb system, and you'll have a decent running, reasonably efficient combo with minimal possibility for headaches.

newZman

Thanks for news five7kid.

My thoughts are it's not the kill but the thrill of the hunt. And, please correct me if I am mistaken;
1 - I am a litttle closer to the LSx if I ever get to do that.
2 - I should get better gas mileage for equal hp.
3 - I can always go to carb if there are too many issues.

Another question;
Is there a resitor for key on the pickups? I can see it on my Buick key but I dont on a Tahoe key.

Thanks again for chiming in.

I am pretty green in the industry, my son and just finished a rebuild of a 350 for a Blazer but that's no Camaro. I have a lot to learn and my experience with new stuff is next to nill. So please I value your input, please jump in here with your thoughts.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Do you mean closer to the LS1 if you convert to TBI? If that's what you mean, then the answer is, "Not really." The only thing TBI and LS1 have in common are an in-tank electric fuel pump. While you could use a pump that would support LS1 in a TBI car, a TBI pump wouldn't support an LS1.

Other than the fuel pump, nothing else from the TBI would be used in an LS1 swap.

As to your other points:
TBI won't support as much HP as a stock computer controlled q-jet. The economy gain would be slight (assuming you can keep your foot out of the q-jet's secondaries).

The only "issues" you would have putting the '95 350 under your stock q-jet are the intake manifold center two mount bolt angles are different from '84 to '95 (either a simple manifold change to the '87-later bolt angles, or elongate those 4 bolt holes in the '84 manifold to get the bolts to fit); and the change from 2-piece rear main seal to 1-piece (requires a different flex plate - most trucks were 168-tooth, 3rd gens were 153-tooth).

newZman

Certainly closer to the LT1 conversion since I will have the T-56 already in there bolted right up to that 95 cast. I would have to mess with fuel pump either way since both use an in tank pump.

I didn't really get into the Camaro project thing to keep my foot out of the throttle, that's for sure.

I wouldn't bother trying to put the manifold from the 84 305 in there with those heads anyway. there are plenty of aftermarket manifold options for going to carbs on there that won't break the bank.

Again correct me if I'm wrong, but I should have plenty of options for gaining as much power as I want out of that motor if I am willing to rebuild the motor and upgrade heads and/or intake etc... Which is the plan.

If I am not mistaken I can put a set of Vortec heads on there and go to TPI. Asside from that I think there are some pretty decent aftermarket TBI options as well.

I am going to get the cast numbers to determine what cast theyu used which should help me determine what options I have.

I am not trying to get this back on the road quickly or anything unless I absolutely have to, in which case I'll take that 95 5.7 litre and the 700R4 put a shine on it and stick it in there as is and be done, with exception to the wiring and driveshaft (dont have one yet). I am getting a complete engine/trans with all elctrical from a truck I am driving to my garage.

Thanks agin for the feedback.

I am going to post my progress here so chime in whenever you like.

-AO-

The 1995 trans will be a 4L60E which will need the computer to work. The heads will be junk swirl ports and will need a 87-95 style intake. The cam will be a small flat tappet.

I suggest a bigger cam, Vortec heads, and a new carb.

I'd use a 700R4 if you want to keep it an auto.

newZman

Thanks for the suggestions, I didn't think too much about the tranny that is coming out of there, cause I want to go with the T-56 for fun factor and challenge. If funds get tight I could be forced in other directions though.

The truck is OBDI not OBDII, do you think it still would have the 4L60E?

newZman

It is also good to know the quality of what is in there, I'll be planning to upgrade those things you mention MGM-RS.

newZman

Here is a picture of the engine bay of the car. It is a 1984 5.0 HO car, it had the L69 package with a T-5 originally. I got it with no transmission and most the motor with intake removed and claims of a bad CAM.

I have started taking the engine apart and am getting ready to pull the block out now. The picture is of the engine bay how I got it.
Engine is out now.

AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

Not really... I guess you'd have the T-56 cross member, but the T-56 isn't the same between a LT1 and a LS1.

newZman

Here's the engine still in the truck after driving to my garage. Seems to ruun okay.

newZman

Got the engine out.

newZman

Here's a better look at the engine and the transmission now that they er seperate.

newZman

IS that a 4L80E?

The pictures I am seeing make me believe it is.

-AO-

Can you give us the VIN of the truck?

newZman

Sure; 1GCGC24K6RE271013

Thank you!

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

The truck motor is even farther from an LS1 than an LT1 is.

Just view it as a 350 with junk heads. It's got as much potential as any other 350 with junk heads. The only other real drawback is that it doesnt have a roller cam which is pretty sad really. Getting a modern 1 pc RMS block and not being able to put a stock roller cam set up in there is just frustrating.

newZman

This motor will get rebuilt from the bottom up.

The block cast is 14093638, 87-95 2 or 4-bolt (dont know yet) and according to what I see it came stock with either a roller or flat cam.

Why can't a stock roller cam setup be put in there?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

It came stock with a flat tappet cam. Chevy didnt go to roller cams in trucks until the Vortecs in 1996.

You cant use a factory roller setup because the blocks didnt get the lifter bosses machined for one to be installed.



Thats whats in my car right now.

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

But you can buy retrofit roller lifter that don't use the factory spider to hold the lifters aligned.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...retrofit&dds=1

newZman

Gotcha.

Is this picture of a roller block? I think that you implied.

Yeah, now that's what I'm looking for, the can do's, not so much the can'ts. My Grandady used to say 'Can't never did a thing'.

Now what about getting it machined, or is that not practical?

Thanks a lot all and keep the suggestions coming. I'll keep this post updated with my progress.

I am thinking medium power 350 - 400 hp would be enough for me and shouldn't be to difficult.

newZman

newZman

What would be good CAM specs for achieving the results I am after (350 - 400 hp)?

I was thinking about putting some new heads and intake (vortec heads w/Edelbrock 7116 intake and a Holley Street Avenger 670 cfm). I like the idea of the aftermarket roller set.

Do you think that is a drop in upgrade?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Pull the intake manifold off of your engine and look in the lifter valley. A lot of those 638 blocks were machined for the roller lifters, even though they went into a truck (such as the engine that came out of my brother's '92 Suburban). If so, you can put all of the factory roller lifter pieces in there, even though the factory didn't put them in your engine.

Vortec heads would be a good idea. A Street Avenger carb is a bad idea (unless this is going back into a truck - which I assume was not your intent).

It's pretty hard to beat this deal http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ter/sd8060akit . With a cam in the high 260's advertised duration, factory q-jet carb, headers and good exhaust, you'll make 400 flywheel HP easily.

newZman

It sounds like I'm getting on the right track now.

When you guy say 'machined for the roller lifters', what is machined, the diameter of the lifter holes or what, what would I see that would give it away as to what it is?

And what do you think would be a good carb for this setup?

Can you tell me your opinion on why the Street Avenger is not good? My son and I put one on his 79 Blazer and it seems okay, kind of a hog though.

I am open to suggestion on how I might get to TPI and the methods for getting there if at all possible. I currently have an OBDI computer that came with the TBI engine in our discussion here and controls the 'E' trans as well.

Thanks again!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The "nubs" in the center of the lifter valley will be machined on the top, drilled and tapped. The tops of the lifter bores will be machined. The front of the block where the cam goes in will be machined, drilled, and tapped for the cam retainer plate.

If you see drilled & tapped holes in those lifter valley nubs, that would be sufficient to conclude it is roller-lifter-ready.

THE STOCK Q-JET!

Vacuum secondaries serve one of two possible purposes: 1) Save the ignorant hot rodder from himself when he puts on a carb that is bigger than his engine can use; or 2) keep the engine from producing too much power too soon, such as in a tire-limited racing class.

They also work fairly well on low-RPM applications such as trucks.

The best method to getting to TPI would be to buy a complete TPI system that someone has removed for something else.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

350-400 hp.... somewhere between 230/230 and 240/240 @.050 cam, vortec heads should be able to do it. If you go roller cam you'll be right in the ballpark easy.

Go for a 650-750 Double Pumper, ESPECIALLY if you're bolting it to a manual. You want a carb with mechanical secondaries.

http://image.carcraft.com/f/10025995...seal_truck.jpg

The lifter bosses are actually a little shorter, the tops of them are machined for the roller equipment, plus all the other things he mentioned. Some aftermarket roller lifters dont even fit into these tall lifter bores, their links hit the lifter bosses.

-AO-

I typed in the truck's VIN at Comp Nine and that truck is a 1994 2500. Which means that is a 4L80E trans and that the 350 is probably a 4-bolt main.

http://www.compnine.com/vid.php?vin=1GCGC24K6RE271013

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Now THAT is neat...

newZman

Thanks for that info five7kid, unfortunately I dont have the original Quadrajet just the intake.

Thanks for CAM specs InfernalVortex I'll look for something in that area, and it sounds like I should get a carb with manual secondaries.

Are those retrofit rollor lifter kits mentioned by BlackenedBird gonna fit without problems?

Thanks for the info on the tranny too that's good to know. I actually screwwed up taking the tranny off the motor and dropped it on the floor. Cracked at top of the bell housing and broke a sensor on the side . I guess it can be fixed but still takes some of the excitement out of the deal. I have post related to this in the tranny section.

I'll get that motor apart and get some more pictures up of it so everyone can see what it looks like.

Thanks You all!

newZman

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Well, you never said that.

newZman

I got the intake off and it looks like it just might be roller ready. I will try to get the timeing chain cover removed and take a look at that. Here's some pics of the lifter valley for now.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That's a good sign. There have been a few reports of part of the block being machined but the rest wasn't, so get that timing cover off (you'll probably have to remove the cam gear as well).

newZman

I am feeling pretty good about this for sure. I got the timing cover off last night took some pics this morning.

Anyone got an opinion as to what the best roller lifer kit to get for this? I was looking at the GM performance one it looked reasonabley priced.

Oh yeah, it is a 4-bolt for sure too.