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I would get a Vortec 350

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...oductId=813788

and a carbed intake

 

that T-5 isnt going to last behind anything other then a stock 305. There was a reason GM never put them behind the 350 from the factory.

If you plan on upgrading, you better do more then just the motor.

I vote for a carbed vortec motor as well.

I would hate to see a perfectly good 4th gen stripped of the motor/trans for a swap to a 3rd gen. If you do do this, please find a wrecked one.

 

I second that

 

See this is what I thought.

And yeah, as I said I had planned on finding a wrecked 4th gen. It would be pointless to pickup a healthy one for a good bit more money just to strip it down.

 

I see you are in pa. http://www.fpartssalvage.com/ the are in pa too. I WOULD go lsx if your trying to use it as a daily driver , then also can make good power with still getting good gas milage

 

Well I got a little more information today. The heads and carb need rebuilt, and I need a new intake.
Looking at around $2000, and both my dad and the guy doing the work think that the best idea would be to just get it rebuilt and have it be a good driver. I'd really like something faster right off the bat, but he said that keeping this a driver and getting something else down the road for a speed car would be a better idea.
The only problem is that if I get another car Id rather it be a driver so I could put the money into the z28 for a fun car. Just confused as to what i should do >.<

 

sounds like the guy working on your car just wants the extra work and more money instead of just droping in a diffrent motor.

 

What you have to do is ask yourself if you think you could find a reliable daily drive for 2k? Can you find another car to build to go fast? Will the rebuild make yours faster with all that had been going wrong to net this repair bill? Something about running a Z28 especially an 87 IROC on a road track is extremely appealing though. If yours was TPI which I'll assume since you did not say it was HO it can be refitted back and tuned to get 30+ on the highway and still be a thriller of a daily driver.

 

if that inlcudes the fellow doing the work of removing and reinstalling the engine then that's a very fair price when you look at all the extras that many forget when doing a yank and reinsertion.

You aren't going to get a rebuilt engine swap for $2k or less, not even close.

Yes, you could get a junk engine and put a junk engine into your car; if that's what you want is a junk engine

 

Its not TPI. I wouldn't expect to find a reliable daily driver for 2k or something I could build for that, but what it comes down to is that I dont think its worth it to put 2000 into an engine that is still going to be 20+ years old.

I dont expect to find an engine swap for $2k, and I definitely dont want to swap another junk engine in. What I said before was that I was thinking of an LS with a t56. Beccause for about 3 times the money as repairing an already shitty engine (that may have more problems down the road) I could have an LS1

 

could always go carb'd ls1. I've dealt with fparts (contemporary corvette) a lot over the years. Not the cheapest but they stand behind what they sell and won't sell you junk. One time I bought a whole 4th gen plastic tank assembly and the pump was bad, they just swapped out the sending units for a good one no questions. I don't mind paying a little extra for customer service like that. Hard to find these days.

Also if you need any help pm me I'm in PA too

-Jim

 

first, you m ust acquire the LS1 and T-56. Then, since a used engine is just that, a used engine and you know nothing of its true disposition then you rebuild it or swap for a reman'd long block. You're looking at $2500- $3,000 depending on what/where you do. Then, you need a new clutch and rebuilt the t-56 so you're looking at at least $500 beyond the aquisition cost as well. Hopefully you got the computer and harness

so, junk engine/tranny with harness acquisition cost probably around $1,000- $2,000 depending on how junky it is. Add in rebuilding cost and you are sitting around at least $5,000 and you added zero performance parts. If you want performance such as headers and cam/springs/rockers/rods then you are adding another $1,000.

Toss in another $1,000 for incidentals.

honestly, I'd go looking for a 98-2002 F-body to buy and drive.