so i been pretty bored with my project not being able to decide on a lsx or regular sbc so i just decided to stick with a small block for a budget. but while waiting on my engine i decided to uncover the 305 which was pulled from my firebird. i want to take this engine and do something crazy with it and put it in a small car thats v8 friendly or that i can make v8 friendly. i dont want to do a 350 i want to have fun with this 305 since i have it laying around. it has 175k miles on it.

can i bore it out at all without doing any type of machine work to make anything fit?
should i just strip the block take it to a machine shop and have them freshen up the cylinder walls and remove surface rust?
is this cam too big for the stock heads? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1102/
should i go with my double hump heads?

some one please let me know if this would make for a good bottom end combo

 

i had the 1104 cam with stoc heads and springs and did great was on a 350 but the 305 and 350 heads r really close and u can bore the block just have to get pistons to fit the overbore

 

ok sweet ill be ordering the cam next week then depending on what the block looks like when i take the heads off.

 

stroke the 305 to a 335 stroker.

 

would it be possible you could send me a link to the package i could order to do that?

 

i ran the smmit 1103 cam in a 305 and a 350 and LOVED it. pulled great in my 305 i had in my 82.

 

i was looking at this cam it seems like a pretty decent piece. im gonna order it so what intake would you suggest that i run with this?

 

would this intake be proper? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8126/

the cams operating range is 2000-4500rpm
the intakes operating range is 1500-5500rpm

 

Is this a roller cam 305? I wouldn't take out a roller cam to put in a flat tappet.

If it is a roller, you can get a 208/214 from this ebay seller-

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/willhoit...id=p4340.l2562

 

its a non roller cam engine

 

I ran the performer rpm intake on both motors I ran that cam in. In the 305 I shifted at 6000 and 5500 in the 350 I also ran 1.6rr on the 305f though it has screw in studs on the 416 heads and guied plates. Ran longtubes on both setups and a 2800 12in converter behind both but the 305 setup ended up with a 9.5in 3500 converter and it came to life! For a budget build imo its a fun setup. Ran mid 8s on street tires in the 1/8th.

 

so ordered the 1103 cam kit. it should be in around tuesday. which then ill be breaking down the block for further work. my biggest fear is those dang exhaust manifolds getting them off is gonna be a bit or work. since of of the bolts seemed to be stripped

 

personally, i wouldn't buy parts until you have block apart, and the machine work already done to it. But whatever.

 

everything i have so far can be used for the 350 as well. i havent bought any internals. the cam i ordered is the biggest cam that can be used with the stock torque converter if i remember correctly.

 

That cam in a 305 will like a small converter I ran it with a stock converter and 3.73s and only could run a 9.7 in the 1/8th with 2.4x 60' (no spining) but 78mph trap speeds at only 3/4 throttle had some throttle cable issues I found later. Ended up putting a 12in 2800 converter in and made it a lot better then went with a 9.5in 3500 converter and it felt like it gained 100hp. Ran the 2800 in my 4x4 later that had the 350 with that cam and it pulled nicely.

 

If you're gonna waste money on a 305, do it the right way and get a proper converter, massive cam, and decent rear gears. Otherwise you're not even going to be able to hit factory L98 power levels. You can make a 305 fast by spending more money and going all out. You gotta do both.

If you just want something that runs sorta okay, then just leave freshen up the 305 and leave stock parts in it. If you're gonna start buying cams and stroker kits... make it worth it.

I cant believe you're gonna buy a stroker kit, with all it's explicit and implicit costs, and then put a tiny cam in it and leave the stock torque converter. Your return on your investment (this is a budget build, right?) will be served MUCH better by getting some great factory cylinder heads. Think shaved corvette 113 L98 heads. Shaved, ported 416 heads, and add a big solid flat tappet cam. You CAN make BIG power cheap with a 305, but an old school baby cam, camelhumps and a stroker kit isn't going to get you anywhere you'll be happy with.

Also, those "operating ranges" are based on a 350ci engine, not a 305. Bump that up a little higher and you'll see where your operating range really is.


This is what I would do, since I dont believe in spending money on power on 305's, or buying cheap old school, outdated camshafts.

Get some cheap 416 heads (or TPI 081s). Port them, at least port the exhaust side. Shave them down about 5cc's or so. Do some minor work like bowl blending, etc. Major work is unnecessary and a waste of time - this is a cheap 305 we're talkin about here.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-676-4/

Put that cam in it.

Put some decent valve springs - whatever comp recommends for that cam.

Optional: Hone the cylinders with a cheap ball hone or something, add fresh rings, properly gapped.

Put a Performer RPM, Holley street dominator, or even a big single plane intake on it and put a Holley 650 DP on top.

Add some headers. If you have the ability, some Hedman LT's and a dual 2.5 inch setup will be much cheaper and wont ruin your ground clearance too much. Run that through two cheap "turbo" mufflers and dump it at the axle. It'll sound amazing.

And of course, a stall converter and gears.

Stall converter, gears, exhaust, intake, carb - can all be used on a 350. You want to get a BIG cam and some heads with a high compression ratio. A big cam will bleed off some of that compression. Your power band will probably go from 2k to 7k. If you want to replace your rod bolts with some ARP Wav Loc bolts that might be a good idea, otherwise when ti blows up you can just shave down another set of cheap 305 heads, do some bowl blending on them, and find another free 305 shortblock somewhere (EVERYONE has free 305 shortblocks laying around because they're worthless and you payin someone to haul it off is an insult to your own dignity) and bolt everything back up to it.

I've seen these setups perform AMAZINGLY well. Big cammed 305s with factory heads, good intake, good exhaust, a loose converter and some 3.73s or 4.10s - you'll go places, probably go places in 12.5 seconds.

 

Quoted for future reference.

Boring it out is machine work.

The cylinder walls are rusted?

I'm going to be blunt - that is really stupid, on several levels.

The word "budget" was used by the OP. A stroker doesn't fit with "budget", and if you don't want to do a 350 (which would be more "budget" than anything you could possibly do with a 305 which involves a machine shop), then you clearly shouldn't be considering stroking a 305. Unless you want to do a budget stroker, and in that case, you should be looking for a builder 350 block.

Being crazy is one thing, but there is no reason to be stupid while you're at it.

Forgive me for being blunt, but sometimes a 2x4 is more effective than a feather.

Now, what could you do? Take the 305, put rings & bearings in it (a glaze break is all you should consider for the cylinder walls), find a set of 350 Vortec heads (don't bother with 305 Vortec heads), put that cam in it, then put it all in whatever small car you decide on (just don't try to discuss putting the engine into that platform here if it isn't a 3rd gen). If you need to send anything of the 305 to a machine shop, toss it and find a different 305.

 

i know boring it out is machine work but i meant like all that crazy stuff everyone talks about to get certain parts to fit.

i havent a clue if the cylinder walls are rusted or not but there is some surface rust on the block itself. the heads seem to have rust on them where the intake bolts to and on the lifter gallery not sure if the cylinders are shot or not guess we will see this week when i remove the heads.

and yes i could agree to stroking the 305 is a pretty nutty idea. i might as well order a stroker kit for just about to same price to drop in a 350.

im thinking of dropping the 305 thing for a 350 since it seems to be the wiser investment so the title should be 350 craziness for a v8 converted car

 

You need to grind the oil pan gasket rail on the block in order for the rods to clear with a stroker crank. And, you need to do something about the tops of the valve guides if you go over about .480" valve lift. I wouldn't call that "crazy", though.

 

so basically this is another "I want to make a high performance 305" thread but disguised as something else............got it

 

I really don't care man, i'm never rebuilding a 305. I simply suggested it to the OP. And the term "budget" could be anywhere from 500-10,000$. Its simply a word that states the max amount one is able to spend, which OP did not mention.

 

good, then i could recommend stroking that to a 383, and maybe five7kid will lecture me on "over budget, and craziness".

 

what you might consider a "lecture" is perhaps more based upon knowledge and experience and should be heeded

 

That would be what a lecture is. Thanks for defining that.