302
305
350
377
I would say that is 4 versions ?

In any case ,
this thread is a complete waste of bandwidth because you have had the best info from some of the most knowledgeable minds online
( there is reason many non 3rd Gen owners come to this site for help )
and you still have your original

" i wanna b different " mindset

Stop the BS and just go and do what you want.
As has been noted ; is your car / your $$$ / your choice

 

The engine that is supposed to be being discussed in this thread is my 350 block. Which I was thinking about building into a 302, but decided it would be better to build into a 377. I have a 350 that is staying a 350 and I planned before this thread that I was going to put a 305 in my Camaro.

 

Why are you afraid to bore it out? You do realize boring isn't really a choice, so much as it is a repair, right? The bores oval out over years of use. You bore them out to get them perfectly round again which helps ensure proper ring seal. You bore the block as much as is necessary and if you go to a machine shop that's one of the main operations they do. If it has to go .040 or .060 over then it's not a bad idea to find a different block. If it has to go .030 or less that's great news.

 

I had the machine shop measure the bore after that cleaned the block and the bore is 4.0001-4.0002 does it even really need to be bored?

 

did they check if it was ovaled?

 

nah forget all that build a 396ci out of that 350!

 

I would think so.

 

383 stroker difficult to build? Thats hilarious, in fact the Small Block Chevy is quite possibly one of the easiest engines to build, or any pushrod engine for that matter. All it takes is your sweet time and checking those clearances.

 

so you came on here to be an ***? i have checked clearances and somehow **** keeps changing. not many people know that theres grinding involved on rods or the block or both or one or the other. so if you have a negative comment keep it to yourself i was trying to spare him from jumping the gun on anything and having as difficult of a time as i am

 

My comment was to encourage him not to be scared from one minor incident, aka yourself.


Check your oil pressure? Are you just breaking in the engine? Fresh built engines are usually gonna have metal shavings in the oil pan as parts break in, which is why an oil change is recommended at 1xxx miles.

 

I am pretty sure tylercamaro is right. When I researched about making a 383 it said that you have to grind the rods and block.

 

Any reputable machine shop will take care of it

 

That's hardly a lot of work. At most, it means that you have to pre-install the rotating assembly one or 2 times to mark the spots to grind and then re-check after you grind it.

 

Ever hear of E85 ? you don't need $9 race gas if you plan you build accordingly.


Also keep in mind the original 302 Chevy's were high-RPM motors built for ASSC road course competition.. The original 302 Z28s were built in small quantities to meet ASSC rules for their "stock" car class which at the time was dominated by Mustangs... and this is how the Pony car wars began.

They were not mass-produced for a reason, and will not fare well on the street and kinda embarrasing when a low RPM torquey "steet motor" beats your "race motor" . The open highway or a track is another matter and I won't condone street racing, that is your business.

 

there is some "clearancing" involved not but every block or rod needs that. Using a small base circle cam helps, using and H beam rod or using 400 bolts in your 5.7 rods, and you may have to touch the block, you may not. Sometimes you have to clearance the area in the front of the block for a double roller timing chain, sometimes not.

Point is it's not all that bad...the machine shop can do it if you have them assemble the engine.

With respect to tyler sounds like he had the worst case scenario, I had to kiss the rod bolt heads on one rod in my 383 but thats it.

 

Usually you will need some grinding done on the block, but with a small base circle can you should be ok with the rods

 

How much does grinding rods and a block cost though?

 

If you're the one building the engine there's no reason why you can't do it yourself... so nothing.

 

That is true.

 

No Fear. build that ****.

 

very little grinding involved. For the rod bolts you just touch the inner bolt that comes in contact with the cam, just enough so it clears, some say .050" minimum clearance. Same clearance spec for the pan rail to rod bolt area. Most 350 blocks have the area where the outer rod bolt passes the pan rail already clearanced for it.

 

Not more than $120 at a machine shop, probably less unless a lot of clearancing needs to be done

 

Yeah I am just trying to think if I have the tools to grind a block

 

Carbide burr in a cheap die grinder. Or a Dremel-type rotary tool if you've got time on your hands.

 

I got all sorts of time coming up here. haha I got a dremel just wasn't sure if that would cut it.

 

Learn how to make a 265, 283, 305, 307, 327, 350, 383, 400, or 427 and you'll know how to make a 302.

 

Yeah all of the small blocks are essentially the same.

 

The only parts spacific to the 302 are the piston and crank everything els can be salvaged from the 350 the heads are probable 76cc as apposed to the 64ccdon't forget they ran alot more compression back then than we can now so that helped the small displacment eng tolerate the thumper cam better; but cam science has come lightyears beyond what was even dreamed back then not to forget heads have evolved also even the much respected rectangular port bbc on the good ports intake flow was only about 266 at.500 oem bbc heads have good & not so good intakes 4 of the intake ports open up into the middle of the bore the others hit the cylinder wallthe intakes port passage are also different length Warning going off on a tangentdoes anyone else remember the early canam cars and series this was bigballs hairychested racing thewhole rule book number less than 20 pages this was run what ya brung take no prisoners racing imagine cars that wieghted2500 lbs or less with 6 to 7 hundered HP CHEVY BB RULED ESPECIALLY AFTER I THINK IT WAS REYNOLDS BEGAN CAST BBC IN AL THEY POKED STROKED THOSE BAD BOYS OUT 494 CID THEY HAD NODULAR IRON LINERS PRIMATIVE AERO BACK THEN EVERYONE COULD GET ONE OF THE UNUBTAINABLE BLOCKS WAS HAPPY EXCEPT FOR FORD &PORSCHE FORD TRIED TO COUNTER W THIER OWN ALUM BB BUT 385 LIMA SERIES 429 & 460 HAS A CRAP OILING SYSTEMCAN YOU SAY 100 PLUS PSI TO KEEP EVEYTHING LUBEDPORSCHE CAM BACK WITH THE LEGENDARY917 TURBO POWER HAD ARRIVED 30PSI OR 2BAR AND NOW YOU NEED 1000HP TO RUN WITH THE BIG DOGS PARNELL JONES WROT ABOUT HIS EXPERENCE TEST DRIVING A 917HE SAID IT HAD ALL FINESS OF A SLEDG HAMMER TO THE BACK OF YOUR HEAD STOMP THE GO PEDAL AND NOTHING NOTHING WAIT FOR IT AND GO FROM LIKE 275HORSE OR 300 TO 1000 IN THE SPACE OF 2 OR 3 SECOUNDS OMGTHE THING WAS A DEATH TRAP NOT ENOUGH TIRE ALMOST NO BRAKES NO WAY TO REGULATE HOW HARD THE TURBO HIT NO ELECTRONICS OR EVEN WASTGATES AT FIRST THEY HADN'T BEEN INVENTED YET. THE ONLY OTH ER RACING SERIES USING TURBOS WAS INDY ON THERE BIG THUMPER OFFY FOURS THEY USED A POPOFF VALVE TO LIMIT BOOST BUT NOT REGULATE ITONCE YOUR OUT ON THE TRACK AND ON BOOST STAYED ON TILL YOU HAD TO PIT NO SHIFTING OR ON AND OFF THE THROTTLE ENGINE SPEED DIN'T VARY MUCH BETWEEN STRAIGHT AND BANKED TURNS SORRY JUST REALIZED CAP LOCK HAS BEEN ON THRUOUT THIS WHOLE LONG ERELAVTANT RANT THAT NONE CARES TO READ ANYWAY.

 

U need 1178 crank

 

No amount of anything will Ever get a 305 output anywhere near what a 350 will do. As for the original question, the 302 was created by gm with a 350 block and a 283 crank. The leftover parts created the 307, another boat anchor. A good running 283 will trounce a 305 or 307 in power.

 

Actually No.

The 302 SBC was assembled with a 327 Cylinder-Block due to its 2.300" size Main-Journal dimension... Not a 350 Cylinder-Block.

The 283 SBC and the Early-327 SBC both use a 2.300" size Main-Journal dimension.
Where the 350 SBC uses a 2.45" size Main-Journal dimension.

For a 350 SBC to use an actual 283 SBC Crankshaft, Main-Journal Spacers/ Bearing-Inserts would need to be used to make up the difference in size.
This is far from ideal.

Today, with the high availability and affordability of custom SBC Crankshafts...
A Crankshaft for a 350 SBC Cylinder-Block can be ordered in the same Stroke as the original 283 SBC used (or many other Stroke dimensions for that matter) and not require Main-Journal Spacers/ Bearing-Inserts.

Also, in case you were not familiar...
The 400 SBC Cylinder-Block uses a 4.65" size Main-Journal dimension.


O... and please try not to Post on Threads that have not had any activity for several years.
Thanks!

 

350s had a small journal crank the first year they existed. Later 302s were also large journal.