I have been searching for just a basic stock engine replacement for my Camaro. I don't want to upgrade, add on, or enhance it in anyway that would require me to by loads of extra stuff....I like my Camaro the way it is. The car runs fine now, has about 161,000 miles on it but the PO changed the cams and never got a chip burned. I have no idea what he put in it but the air/fuel is a bit off and it idle surges a little. I just want to replace the whole thing. I don't have any shops around me that rebuild them but I saw this link for engines in another post: http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/...01109299967.f1. Anyone dealt with them before and will this even work for my vehicle? And are there better places to search for a basic L98? I know GM doesn't make them anymore but I need something that can be dropped in with the least hassle. Thanks!

 

They use the same part number for Camaro, Caprice and some trucks/vans. The camaro "replacement engine" lists 193 swirl port truck heads as possible. The cam used is not listed but overall I would say that this is not made specifically for your L98.

 

Seems like it would be a hell of a lot easier to just get the car tuned to run right with the motor you have, especially considering that as Chesterfield mentioned, the "stock replacement" motor is not going to be the same as what your car came with anyway.

If you want a "stock" motor, your best solution is to have your current motor rebuilt and buy a cam with mild specs, close to what the stock cam would have had (or at least a little better). I can't imagine there isn't an engine builder near you. Every area has multiple machine/engine shops.

That aside, upgrading to a better motor doesn't have to be difficult or expensive. Take a little time to do some homework, and you'll find that there are plenty of affordable, easy options for replacement engines that will outperform the stock motor.

 

Yeah I know its going to be hard to find an exact L98 replacement but I am just trying to figure out what engine I would have the least hassle installing with. This one looks like it would do the job however I am open to suggestions if anyone knows of a better place.

 

What I mean about not having a rebuilder is that I don't excatly trust most shops around here not to screw it up. The problem with tuning is that I don't know of anyone near me that does tuning and I sure as heck don't know how.

 

Or honestly a good place to find crate motors.

 

Jegs.com was doing a special on a 350. 1500 shipped to your door I believe. But you'd most likely need a tune for your current ecm or a standalone anyway. It would be smarter to just have a chip burned for your current as Jim85IROC said.

 

Ok Ill start searching for chip burners or tuners.....I have no idea how to do that stuff. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

FWIW, if you look down farther in Rebuilt's listing, you'll see "083" for heads. If you order from them, they'll put in/on it what you want.

But, if your issues are tuning, not a worn out engine, then get it tuned.

If the only issue with the tune is the cam, and you aren't married to the cam, replace the cam with one closer to stock.

These suggestions are listed in descending order of expense.

 

Thanks for the advice. Im pretty sure one of the valves are either bent or one of the seals is gone. The car puffs out white smoke for about a second when the car is started and has been sitting for awhile/overnight. So thats another reason i was thinking replacement. Tuning sounds good but I dont know how and am trying to find a place/person to do it.

 

So get someone to determine the health of the engine before you write it off altogether;
may be a much cheaper fix than a whole new engine


Plenty of on line tuners that can do a tune for your engine;
helps to know what is in it ( cam/ etc ) though

 

This is the 3rd post where you have just repeated what someone else has already said

 

LOL! Yeah thanks Vett...I guess I should take it in and see how much to get whatever fixed...Im just the type of person who hates when PO's screw with the car and then I don't even know what they did to it...so when I find something wrong with it, I feel like I should just buy a new part of whatever is having the issues that way I know its good after its replaced. I heard about people who do online tuning from a buddy of mine who is into trucks, but I'm trying to find people who deal with third gens and such. Another friend of mine told me I should take my car to a Dyno and have them try and help me figure out what needs to be done. Thanks again for all the help guys

 

Here's what I would do, in fact I am doing it right now with someone else's engine. Cam, lifter, head gasket swap and valve job, and then tune it to the new cam. This way there will be nothing PO's would've done to affect it...The engine I'm working on had 2 head bolts that weren't torqued down and were in hand tight...needless to say this engine WAS leaking oil like no tomorrow, but everything will be good when I get the heads back from their valve job.

 

Yeah i guess that would make alot more since than swapping the long block. Ill have to start searching for heads/cams. Sorry i dont really know an extensive amount about good internal parts for our cars yet....just recently left the mitsu eclipse/talon market and got into the third gens....always loved them growing up. So i know quite a bit about tuners but just the basics about the big V-8s.....so i got a bit of research to do.

 

The exact correct cam is no longer available new, and a bit of a hassle to confirm used. Best to buy a new cam that is a mild upgrade. Can't trust the LT1 cams because there are several versions, and the Impala SS LT1 cam is the L31 truck cam, and that's not so good. If you have a 2.77:1 axle, the GM RamJet 350 cam is a safe choice. If you have a 3.27:1 axle, then one of these: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=211&sb=2 For a mild upgrade, try this: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1551&sb=2

 

Thanks Atilla. This gives me a good place to start. Now if and when I swap out the cams, are there other parts i should look into to supplement the cams or will they be good for a standalone swap?

 

I must have been tired. That last cam would be a good mild upgrade with a 3.27:1 or 3.45:1 axle, having more lift than stock, and being better matched to your original heads. It's definitely a no-tune cam, it'll run very well with stock programming in the engine computer. It's compromise in every way, but a pretty good compromise. The first Comp cam I listed should be safe with stock tuning, more-so at lower elevation, and is what I'd start with. Really, these are both weak choices, and your engine could run much stronger by putting the same money into a custom dyno-tune, and maybe a gear swap if you have 2.77:1

 

Yeah now i just need to go figure out what axel ratio i have.

 

compnine.com should be able to tell you if you type in your vin #...If I had to guess, I'd say 3.27:1.

 

Thanks Dakaota...went there and found out that I have 3.23