Introduction
My 1991 Firebird Formula 305 TPI developed a rod knock recently. Rather than rebuild the old 305 which wasn't passing emissions anyway, I figured this would be a good time to do a 350 swap. Now I'm not looking for big power, I'll be happy with stock. A 350 seems to give me more room to grow however, so since the originality of the car was already compromised when I got it, seems like a good plan.

Now this was my daily driver, so I need to get it right the first time when I try and do this swap. I plan on taking the week of November 22nd off to get it done, so I need to get everything together by then.

Onto the main part of this project: planning. I've looked around at various posts but either have not found the answers I'm looking for. So this is sort of my clarification/fill me in on what I'm missing thread.

The Crate Engine

EDIT 3: I ended up buying this engine. I just went with the stock config they have so that I hopefully don't have to do any tuning. https://www.sandjengines.com/rebuilt...icationID=9678

Fuel Delivery

So I know that I will need to buy new injectors for a 350 swap. From what I've read I will need 22 lb/hr injectors.


Questions:

1. Does the fuel pressure regulator need changed at all? I don't know what the pressure on the rail is atm (fuel pump was changed at some point), should I hook up a pressure guage to find out?
2. What brand of injectors would be a good one to go for? Cost is also an issue, so as long as they are decent they don't have to be premium quality.

ECM
So I know that I will need a new chip in my computer. I do have TunerPro RT but don't have any emulators or prom burners.

Questions:

1. Will a stock bin for a 350 TPI work in my case? Or will I need to do a custom tune?
2. If I do need to do a custom tune, is it easy to tune myself, or should I bring it to a professional tuner who knows what they're doing?

Other

So here's just some other questions that I came up with.

1. I know that I need to get a knock sensor for a 350, but I've seen conflicting information on whether or not I need a new ESC module. Do I need one, and if so, how can I tell the difference between a 305 and 350 module?
2. Should I replace the water pump at this time? The car was never overheating and seemed to be moving a good volume of water, so should I just reuse the old one?
3. Are there any other things that need replaced other than the injectors, knock sensor, and chip?

Conclusion
So this is just sort of a dumping ground for all the questions I have in the hope that I will get them answered by the time I need to do the swap. I'll likely have more as time goes on. I'll try and keep this main post updated with the answers people give me. Also if you have any links to useful resources, I need all the help I can get.

Old Info:

 

First, the engine is fine, it will work. It just isn't a roller or center bolt valve covers. You can technically run factory injectors also, yes you need a prom or l98 ecm. Factory knock sensor will work. I would replace the water pump if it's seeping. If not, save your money. It's not like an Lt1 where if you have it out replace it... it's easy to replace.

 

Just looked at the engine. You don't need bigger injectors for that. Why not get an l98 for half the price? Curious.

 

If someone knows a good source for a l98 that's equivalent in quality but cheaper than that engine, I'm all ears. I do like the idea that the engine above is a NEW engine, which not to say that rebuilt engines aren't like-new, but it's nice to know.

 

You could probably find a professionally rebuilt l98 locally for around 1195. That's what they are around here

 

That's not a bad engine. It is not a performance engine by any means and the 260 HP number is over inflated.

Thats the common 350 service replacement engine that chevy has had since the 1980's. It was called the "targetmaster" for many years. Only only upgrade to it in the 30 years of it being sold is the rods.

Yes it will work in your car.

Your valve covers, and oil pan will not work on it.

Your intake will need to be modded but will work. In '87 when they went to 1 pc. rear seal, center bolt valve covers they changed the 4 center intake bolt hole angles. It wasnt a big change but it's enough to not let they 2 diff styles seat and seal. The bolts will bind on the holes in intake.

Just use a die grinder, dremel, even a drill bit and elongate the 4 center bolt holes (2 per side) on your intake. You want to make the holes larger up and down, not side to side.

Your stock fuel pressure reg and injectors are fine for that engine.

 

Hmm, would it then be better to use something like this if the price is similar? http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=246&p_catid=&sid=1AlF2z1FOJuIC4o-49105279663.98
Also, my current engine probably has a 1-piece rear main seal, so the flywheel I have would be incompatible with the two-piece right? Should I instead get a 87+ engine that has the centerbolt heads and 1-piece rear main? I'm not concerned about 4-bolt main vs 2-bolt main since I will never be pushing crazy hp through the engine. I also like the appearance of originality, even if it's not.

 

It's a better engine with better heads anda roller cam. Buy that, out in a 262 cam and call it a day

 

Right, your flywheel/flexplate will not work on the goodwrench engine. Don't get me wrong. I like the targetmaster/goodwrench engine but it's nothing to write home about. Sure you can swap heads and con it and have a pretty good one.

Don't get caught up in the 2 vs 4 bolt main crap. A 2 bolt main will never show any probs for you. In fact I have been running a 2 bolt block in mine for almost 10 years and ran a best of 11.40's @ 118, so no where near stock.

Both engines you linked too will work, the last one might be easier for you to drop in and go without mods or changing parts around.

 

X2. My 355 I'm building is 2 bolt

 

As I started to read this thread, that outfit is exactly what I was going to suggest you consider. I have two brothers who each got a rebuilt engine from them, both very happy with them.

 

Based on your feedback I've changed the engine I'm looking at getting to the rebuilt 350. From what I can tell, the place that builds them is S&J Engines, but they have at least 3 websites so it's hard to tell. I've updated the original post with a new question: What cam should I get? Should I stick with stock?

 

Peanut cam?

 

Other: Fuel pump upgrade? (I needed one, when I did this swap.)

Headers might need rubber baffles, not solid metal ones, as custom crank may cause push rods to bang, break and puncture solid baffles. (Happened to me, on both sides of engine. Right part fixed problem, and rolling rollers helped.)