snowflake

1992 used to be a 305/5-speed. I am all most finished with the swap. I used 100% HOLLEY swap kit including exhaust, more than happy with fit and outcome.
I have the starter hooked up correctly and am thinking maybe its a safety switch?. I have the clutch press all the way down but starter will not turn over. New batt, and starter.

Am I missing something or overlooking something? THANKS

Jorlain

iTrader: (4)

Couple things I can think of that you could check.

1) Neutral Safety Switch (I think it's a button type switch above the clutch pedal but I'm not 100% sure) - If it is this, you can try jumping the wires to see if it'll crank.
2) Ignition Switch - This had went bad on my car. Here's a thread that might help: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ank-issue.html

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

This should be a sticky but the mods won't do it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...pass-vats.html

Jorlain

iTrader: (4)

I always forget about vats since my car didn't come with it.

snowflake

Thanks QwkTRip, I have a complete PSI conversion system on the car. No vats.

snowflake

Thanks I,ll try that and see if it works. Im really thinking its probably a switch or a switch im going to have to jump.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

How does it bypass VATS? The old PASSkey module controlled the starter relay.

snowflake

Ok, I see whats going on here. I thought VATS was in the ECM. So this must be my problem. Ill go back and read the link on how to disable it. Thanks again.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ya, starter wiring is part of chassis harness EXCEPT for the start relay which was put there to allow PASSkey to disable the starter motor for security reasons. You can eliminate the relay and nothing is lost, unless you want to use it to interrupt the starter with a new anti-theft device.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

It DID also disable the injectors, so you were 1/2 way there

snowflake

Are you talking on the 92 ECM?

TJQIROC

iTrader: (1)

If the VATS is not the problem, the best thing to do is work your way back and test what Jorlain mentioned. Hook a remote starter switch to the starter and see it if turns over. If it does, then move to the next point, the clutch safety switch, at the bottom of the clutch pedal when pushed in. Pull the plug off. Test if you get power to the plug when you turn the key. If yes, then jump power to the other side to see if the starter turns. If the starter does not turn, then there may be a break in the wire. If you get power to the plug, and a jumper powers the starter, then its a bad switch. You can test continuity of the switch with an ohm meter while pushing on the switch by hand. If there is no power when you turn the key, the problem is with the ignition which is more of a pain. Oh yeah, do all this work on you back contorted under the dash!

snowflake

LMMFAO!!!! Thats exactly whats happening. And thanks for more info. Everything was working perfect before the swap. Then again anything can happen.

snowflake

PROBLEM SOLVED. Had a relay in between solenoid wire that should have not been there. Thanks everyone.