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Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
Ok - so I checked all connections and extra harnesses I have to make to the LT1 engine hardness - all good - working on a a nice diagram
Unfortunately, I cannot find any information on what to do with these wires here - they disconnect from the original 305 engine harness and are underneath the driver side dash - can anyone help?
getting the pinout on these three connectors would be the most awesome Christmas present ever !!!!!!!
Ok - so I checked all connections and extra harnesses I have to make to the LT1 engine hardness - all good - working on a a nice diagram
Unfortunately, I cannot find any information on what to do with these wires here - they disconnect from the original 305 engine harness and are underneath the driver side dash - can anyone help?
What you're holding in your hand looks A LOT like C207. On firebirds this is supposed to be under the RH side dash. So the placement seems odd. Maybe it came LH side on Camaros, but I have no documentation to look that up.
The pinouts never standardized -- they change from year to year
A quick search on TGO listed this thread; look at the 3rd post: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...roc-z-ecm.html
I'd suggest to go by the wire colours and check everything -- the colours did not change that much.
The gray thing next to it, looks like the one going to the Cruise Control harness. On firebirds this harness is easily recognised because the harness wiring also has a vacuum hose going from servo <-> brake pedal.
Unfortunately I haven't been able to read the diagram. Resolution too low as it is uploaded. But making diagrams is always a good idea.
Wow, you are really making progress. Nice work on the engine bay, it looks sharp !
Good luck with your build !
Originally Posted by 3R1$C
Thanks Fuchs for the reply. What I have concluded: "the 700R4 needs a different stall converter but will otherwise work until about 500hp according to some of the posts I have read all across the internet". Do you think this information is false? I am changing over to a brazed torque converter with 3500 stall and a lock-up. I will be installing a Holley HP EFI so the lock/up can be controlled by that as well.
I'm not the expert, but I would find that hard to believe for a stock TH700. I'd say 300-350hp max. Sure, you can buy upgraded and stronger TH700s. Maybe that's the way to go; have fun and see how it lasts. If the new engine's torque kills it eventually you can buy a stronger transmission somewhere in the future.
What you're holding in your hand looks A LOT like C207. On firebirds this is supposed to be under the RH side dash. So the placement seems odd. Maybe it came LH side on Camaros, but I have no documentation to look that up.
The pinouts never standardized -- they change from year to year
A quick search on TGO listed this thread; look at the 3rd post: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...roc-z-ecm.html
I'd suggest to go by the wire colours and check everything -- the colours did not change that much.
The gray thing next to it, looks like the one going to the Cruise Control harness. On firebirds this harness is easily recognised because the harness wiring also has a vacuum hose going from servo <-> brake pedal.
Unfortunately I haven't been able to read the diagram. Resolution too low as it is uploaded. But making diagrams is always a good idea.
Thanks - I have made an overview of mine - see attached. Can you help me with the following: in which direction does the signal of these wires go? From car to engine or reverse? Also, these diagrams always list multiple vehicle functions per pin / how does that work? For instance, pin A is "cold start and emissions" - well, what does this pin actually do? This is analog data right? The pin is either hot or not.
Wow, you are really making progress. Nice work on the engine bay, it looks sharp !
Good luck with your build !
I'm not the expert, but I would find that hard to believe for a stock TH700. I'd say 300-350hp max. Sure, you can buy upgraded and stronger TH700s. Maybe that's the way to go; have fun and see how it lasts. If the new engine's torque kills it eventually you can buy a stronger transmission somewhere in the future.
That's what I will do. Somebody with a third gen T/A told me that he put on 50k miles with 500hp and the stock diff and trans / the only thing that is required for this to work is to use the original tyres which will slip before diff and gearbox give... let us see!
Thanks - I have made an overview of mine - see attached.
I've taken the liberty of "updating" this a bit for you for what (I think) your TPI car had in c207 in 1985.
As you can see, even within the same model years the c207 pinout changed, depending on what engine you had.
The B and D-connector description seems off. Maybe someone else can chime in.
A - Brn - ALDL (pin C) / ECM to (AIR control)
B - Red - ALDL / Fuel Relay ( V6 - TPI )
C - Brn/Wht - ECM to Check Engine Light ( L4- V6 - TPI ) - ECM output
D - Lt Blue - Fuel Relay / Fuel Pump ( TPI )
E - Wht/Blk - ALDL / ECM (ign. test input)
F - Pnk/Blk - IGN fuse to ECM (power input)
G - Pnk/Blk - Gage Fuse to Burn Off Relay ( TPI ) power
H - Tan/Blk - ALDL to TCC-ECM - ECM output
J - Org - ALDL / ECM
K - Brn - VSS buffer box to ECM : VSS input
M - Blk/Wht - VSS,P/N switch - ground for VSS buffer box
N - Org/Blk ECM / P/N switch - ECM input
P - Ppl - Brake sw to TCC (not ECM related)
R - Ppl/Wht - Crank Fuse to Cold Start Injector
I guess the most important to keep are
C - check engine light
B? D? - something with a fuel pump relay if you keep the fuel pump wiring
G - ECM power
H - TCC control
N - Park/Neutral switch
M - ground for many things
P - Ppl - Brake sw to TCC
Again (I can't stress this enough): this is just a suggestion for further research. I'm by no means the expert here.
Check and doublecheck. Be cautious... well, don't believe anything that's posted on the internet anyway
Thanks guys / I bought the LT1 starter but there is a gap between the flywheel and the starter when fully out. That is not fully engaged. It is missing about 1/3 of the full engagement. What is this? For sure it is meant to fully engage right?
if you do some research about starters, many times you will find that the starter's teeth are NOT supposed to fully engage the flywheel. I am not talking about tooth contact between teeth, I am talking about exactly what you are having there. horizontal engagement. despite the thickness of the flywheel, it is not necessary for the starters gear to engage the whole horizontal plane of the flywheel. I think the general rule of thumb is about 2/3 contact is normal.
