burn valves when OpenHeaders?
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 171
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From: montreal, QC Canada
Car: Malibu 80, T/A 87, S-15 87
Engine: 267 Bu, 305 T/A, 350 S-15
Transmission: Auto Bu, 5spd T/A, Auto S-15
burn valves when OpenHeaders?
I'm installing my headers this week-end, 2210 hooker.
I told my friend after i go back to my house with open headers, he told me not to, that it will burn my valves!
Then i told him, why do dragster go open headers?
he told me they can because they got stiffer valve spring.
So what!? my headers are longtube, so there far from the block.
I know you'd burn valve with no manifold at all, but should i be ok?
I will have to travel for 1hour on the Highway to get back home.
I cant install the exaust on it, since i dont have the mufflers yet.
my car is manual, if thats of any importance, due to the loss of low-end torque... as little as it might be.
Thanx, im doing this Satursday, id like an answer before that
heheh , if its not good to drive it this way, i'll call for a tow-truck (my friend father has one, would make a good price for me).
I told my friend after i go back to my house with open headers, he told me not to, that it will burn my valves!
Then i told him, why do dragster go open headers?
he told me they can because they got stiffer valve spring.
So what!? my headers are longtube, so there far from the block.
I know you'd burn valve with no manifold at all, but should i be ok?
I will have to travel for 1hour on the Highway to get back home.
I cant install the exaust on it, since i dont have the mufflers yet.
my car is manual, if thats of any importance, due to the loss of low-end torque... as little as it might be.
Thanx, im doing this Satursday, id like an answer before that
heheh , if its not good to drive it this way, i'll call for a tow-truck (my friend father has one, would make a good price for me). burning the valves? no, he's close though, you may "warp" the valves due to the cooler air being able to access the valves a lot quicker, because of the fact that it doesn't have to travel through a warm exhaust system. rapid heating or cooling causes the metal to warp, it shouldn't hurt the valves if you don't regularaly drive around with the pipes open, however, to be on the safe side why not stuff a rag inside the header pipes when youre done driving.
BTW- valve springs really have nothing to do with the valves warping.
BTW- valve springs really have nothing to do with the valves warping.
if i could make the BS flag any bigger... nothing will burn the valves... your friend is a dumb jackhass. If so, i must of burt the ****e out of mine when i ran my car w/o exhaust. Warping the valves is just as possible as burning them. NO cold air is gunna travel up the headers, into the chamber, and somehow cool the thousand degree explosion that makes internal combustion work. So unless you are putting a torch on the valve, you will be fine.
Originally posted by bigals87z28
if i could make the BS flag any bigger... nothing will burn the valves... your friend is a dumb jackhass. If so, i must of burt the ****e out of mine when i ran my car w/o exhaust. Warping the valves is just as possible as burning them. NO cold air is gunna travel up the headers, into the chamber, and somehow cool the thousand degree explosion that makes internal combustion work. So unless you are putting a torch on the valve, you will be fine.
if i could make the BS flag any bigger... nothing will burn the valves... your friend is a dumb jackhass. If so, i must of burt the ****e out of mine when i ran my car w/o exhaust. Warping the valves is just as possible as burning them. NO cold air is gunna travel up the headers, into the chamber, and somehow cool the thousand degree explosion that makes internal combustion work. So unless you are putting a torch on the valve, you will be fine.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,009
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
You plan on driving an hour with open headers? You do realize its INSANELY loud right? Any cop you pass by who doesn't pull you over must really be apathetic about his job. I had my car idle (keyword: IDLE) with open headers in my drive way once and my friend 3 miles up the road heard it while he was inside his house.
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Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
You plan on driving an hour with open headers? You do realize its INSANELY loud right? Any cop you pass by who doesn't pull you over must really be apathetic about his job. I had my car idle (keyword: IDLE) with open headers in my drive way once and my friend 3 miles up the road heard it while he was inside his house.
You plan on driving an hour with open headers? You do realize its INSANELY loud right? Any cop you pass by who doesn't pull you over must really be apathetic about his job. I had my car idle (keyword: IDLE) with open headers in my drive way once and my friend 3 miles up the road heard it while he was inside his house.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: montreal, QC Canada
Car: Malibu 80, T/A 87, S-15 87
Engine: 267 Bu, 305 T/A, 350 S-15
Transmission: Auto Bu, 5spd T/A, Auto S-15
well, there not "in" yet.
On the Driver side, i've cut a bit with torch to give good clearance, then bolt it, seem fine , exept for 1 brake line too close, but that brake line is touching on the passenger too, so i'll put a NEW one, and route it so both side is good...
on the passenger side, using the origninal big started is asking trouble, its so close, i'll look for a small starter, bit will keep it this way until i get one (i want to get a scrap one and rebuil it), then on the passenger side, it seem the first tube is TOUCHING the frame thing (the big one under the engine) so we will heat it red and kick it *** with a big hammer then 1/4 " further it will clears.
otherwise, some scratch on the coating, but anyway i choose the coating so they dont look all rusting quickly.
On the Driver side, i've cut a bit with torch to give good clearance, then bolt it, seem fine , exept for 1 brake line too close, but that brake line is touching on the passenger too, so i'll put a NEW one, and route it so both side is good...
on the passenger side, using the origninal big started is asking trouble, its so close, i'll look for a small starter, bit will keep it this way until i get one (i want to get a scrap one and rebuil it), then on the passenger side, it seem the first tube is TOUCHING the frame thing (the big one under the engine) so we will heat it red and kick it *** with a big hammer then 1/4 " further it will clears.
otherwise, some scratch on the coating, but anyway i choose the coating so they dont look all rusting quickly.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
the only way you will hurt the valves is if you run with no exhaust at all.. ie, no headers or manifolds.
otherwise, you will be fine..
ps: open headers will be loud..... if you finish installing them at 1am, be sure to wake the neighbors.
otherwise, you will be fine..
ps: open headers will be loud..... if you finish installing them at 1am, be sure to wake the neighbors.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,228
Likes: 2
From: Your neighbor's hood, MD
Car: 1987 Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Open headers on my car sounded like ****. Wayy to raspy. Anyways, for anyone else thinking about doing headers, it's much easier if you unbolt the motor mount on the driver's side and jack up the motor. Piece of cake then to get that header in.
Supreme Member

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,009
Likes: 5
From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Originally posted by yanfoo
well, there not "in" yet.
On the Driver side, i've cut a bit with torch to give good clearance, then bolt it, seem fine , exept for 1 brake line too close, but that brake line is touching on the passenger too, so i'll put a NEW one, and route it so both side is good...
on the passenger side, using the origninal big started is asking trouble, its so close, i'll look for a small starter, bit will keep it this way until i get one (i want to get a scrap one and rebuil it), then on the passenger side, it seem the first tube is TOUCHING the frame thing (the big one under the engine) so we will heat it red and kick it *** with a big hammer then 1/4 " further it will clears.
otherwise, some scratch on the coating, but anyway i choose the coating so they dont look all rusting quickly.
well, there not "in" yet.
On the Driver side, i've cut a bit with torch to give good clearance, then bolt it, seem fine , exept for 1 brake line too close, but that brake line is touching on the passenger too, so i'll put a NEW one, and route it so both side is good...
on the passenger side, using the origninal big started is asking trouble, its so close, i'll look for a small starter, bit will keep it this way until i get one (i want to get a scrap one and rebuil it), then on the passenger side, it seem the first tube is TOUCHING the frame thing (the big one under the engine) so we will heat it red and kick it *** with a big hammer then 1/4 " further it will clears.
otherwise, some scratch on the coating, but anyway i choose the coating so they dont look all rusting quickly.
Go ahead and smack your friend upside the head as hard as you can. I'm really beginning to hate all the retarded little car myths. Smack him hard, twice actually 
I ran open headers on my car for a couple days and it was INSANELY loud, but open headers with a heavy lope sounds amazing. Hehe...I loved it. Don't get used to all the extra hp though...you'll feel a decrease in UMPH once you bolt up an exhaust. :lala:

I ran open headers on my car for a couple days and it was INSANELY loud, but open headers with a heavy lope sounds amazing. Hehe...I loved it. Don't get used to all the extra hp though...you'll feel a decrease in UMPH once you bolt up an exhaust. :lala:
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