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Exhaust manifold bolt snapped!! HELP!

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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:01 PM
  #1  
Z-Monkey's Avatar
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From: Western Mass
Car: 83 Brlntta in Z28 clothing
Engine: 305 LB9 POS until 350....
Transmission: hurting 5 spd- Crunchy...
Exhaust manifold bolt snapped!! HELP!

I snapped one of the bolts trying to take my exhaust manifolds off to put headers on. I've tried drilling it out, but got nowhere. Is there a special type of bit that will work better than the crap I've got lying around the garage? Also, in the future, does it make sense to run the engine for a while to heat everything up before trying to take the bolts out? Or just use a can of PB blaster before? I've got the engine out of the car and no way to get it to a shop to get it done for me. Am I going to need to pay for a house call?

-Z-
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Old May 24, 2004 | 08:10 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Get a reverse twist drill bit. Soak in the PB prior to the next try.
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Old May 25, 2004 | 02:13 AM
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From: Indiana
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: ZZ4 fast burn with TPIS mini ram.
Transmission: Viper T10 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Just courios,which bolt did you break off? Reason I'm asking I just did the same thing during a header install and it was the farthest back on the pass. side where theres two in a row. Luckly headers don't use that hole so I just left it.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 05:02 PM
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RMK's Avatar
RMK
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Car: 87 IROC
Engine: modded LB9
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Originally posted by transambill
it was the farthest back on the pass. side where theres two in a row.
I had that one go too. Must be a design fault back there.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 05:38 PM
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transambill's Avatar
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From: Indiana
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: ZZ4 fast burn with TPIS mini ram.
Transmission: Viper T10 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Yeah, this is the second car I've had that has had the same one break. Since it's the hardest one to get to maybe the factory put the super torque on that one.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 06:28 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
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Might just be easier to pull the engine a bit with a hoist so you can get at it easier, will ease installation of the headers also.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 06:36 PM
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Z-Monkey's Avatar
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From: Western Mass
Car: 83 Brlntta in Z28 clothing
Engine: 305 LB9 POS until 350....
Transmission: hurting 5 spd- Crunchy...
No, I must be the lucky one who defies the odds. I broke off one of the middle pair on the passenger side. With the drilling out, am I going to try to drill all the metal out of the hole and then re-tap it, or should I just sink the drill bit in and try to get the whole slug out in one piece?

-Z-
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Old May 26, 2004 | 07:14 PM
  #8  
transambill's Avatar
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From: Indiana
Car: 91 Firebird Formula
Engine: ZZ4 fast burn with TPIS mini ram.
Transmission: Viper T10 6 spd.
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Don't try to drill all the bolt out. It's to easy to drill off center and ruine the factory threds. The bolt is a 3/8 and I wouldn't go any bigger than 5/16. Drill it then use a easyout and after you get the bolt out, run a tap down the hole to clean up the factory threds.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 08:22 PM
  #9  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by pasky
Might just be easier to pull the engine a bit with a hoist so you can get at it easier...
Originally posted by Z-Monkey
I've got the engine out of the car...
Uhhhh....

You might consider putting the exhaust manifold back on the car and use it as a drill guide. Use a smaller reverse twist bit like 1/4", and a sleeve in the manifold bolt hole isn't a bad idea, either. After drilling, remove the manifold and use the easy-out.
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