I see alot of people saying the 2055's drop in from the top. But all the people I see saying this have 305 TBI's. Does the same apply to TPI?

I really dont see how they are going to drop in from the top on the passenger side. Can you easily remove that black plastic box? Or can you slide them in from the bottom?


I also didnt find an answer to this when I searched, how many bolts hold on the stock manifold on the head?


As far as removing the dipstick, do I actually remove it? Or do I just remove the bolt holding it on the manifold?


Thanks, this looks like its going to be a hell of a job though

 

yes you actually remove dipstick and tube. and when i installed my headers (edelbrock) the drivers side i did from the top and the passenger side i did from the bottom.

 

Thanks for the reply! My intructions also say I have to cut the ac bracket, I never read anyone on here doing that?

 

hey man,
andy aka metallicamaroRS has put these onto his camaro. you might want to hit him up on what he had to do. i thought his swap was straight forward from what i remember. hope this helps.

 

Yeah, I did this swap last year. Its not too bad at all.

I dropped both sides in from the top. The driver's side is pretty easily accessible, so I'm sure you can figure that out. The passenger side is pretty cluttered, however. To put that one in, I moved everthing out of the way (the hoses and heater control valve). I even removed the A/C compressor, though looking back I don't know if that was necessary. Then I had to remove the bolt from the passenger side motor mount and jack the motor up a few inches to tilt it to allow the header to slide in. When you are jacking up the motor, be sure to watch the distributor so it doesn't hit the firewall.

You may be able to slide it up from the bottom if you pull the starter, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone else will know.

As for cutting the A/C bracket, I didn't have to do that at all.

Good luck, if you have any other questions let me know and I'll try and help.

 

Thanks for reply Andy! I hope my install goes as well as yours did!

 

*Update*

Driver side manifold is off. Bolts came out great! Only small problem I ran into was on one bolt, the heat shield was stuck on it. After much wrenching it broke loose.

All bolts on passenger side are off except for the last two. I got home late from work and didnt have much more time.



Hope to have the headers in tomorrow or thursday!

 

You're about where I'm at. Little time to mess with the thing, so I spend an hour everyother day or so.

The furthest bolt back on the passenger side looks to be a pita. I tried getting it once then gave up. Dunno how to attack it, from above or below... can't even get to it enough to see what size it is lol. For me, the furthest bolt forward on pass. side appears to have been rounded off on one side by the previous owner; not looking forward to messing with that yet.

So far all I can say is thank you PB Blaster.
:hail:


Here are some links I found:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=239405

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=218539

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=186696

 

That's the first time I've heard anyone say that. The one on my car certainly wouldn't fit around the primary tube without being cut. But, my car isn't what everybody has.

 

My bracket had to be cut also...for you guys who didn't cut it do you have a pic of its installation?

 

*Update*

Entire exhaust system is off! Ready for the headers and y pipe tomorrow.




*Note, heat shields are the devil! And everything you ever do on your car will be 2x worse on the passenger side.



I removed the dipstick, and disconnected the y pipe first. It gave me ALOT more room. Then the furthest bolt back I was able to get a socket on from under the car.

For the one next to it, there was no way I was getting a socket on it. I just took a wrench and ripped away from below until it broke loose.

 

Done , had to take my old 02 sensor and cut it to make my wire longer for the new one, it wouldnt reach.


Why did everyone stare when I took it for a quick 10 minute cruise?




Oh yea, I was running open headers! Holy crap, what a sound! :hail:

 

when i did my header install i took one day to remove the old exhaust manifolds and all the other stuff then the next night i spent til about 5 in the morning with a buddy gettin the damn things in. luckily my air tubes and emissions crap was already off....the only real problem i ran into was the metal heater hose running along the bottom of the pass side engine compartment was bent out too far and the headers wouldnt clear, nothing a crowbar couldnt fix! :lala:

i had to unbolt both motor mounts tho. one at a time of course

as far as the ac bracket, if you are talking about the metal bar connected to the old exhaust manifolds i took that completly off along with the one for the alternator. didnt have to cut anything, luckily.

 

you need to jack up the passenger side of the engine

 

I put all my brackets back on. My dipstick sits a little funny, but its not bent, I removed it before I did any work.

 

Well guys, I finally decided to get on it tonight. I have only my headers and y pipe attached, so its still really loud. Anyway, It dosent really feel like I lost alot of torque running with an open y pipe.


I was at 20 mph and nailed it, and holy ****! Those headers were worth every penny! :hail:

 

thats awesome. now can you swing by my house and rip the drivers side manifold off for me?? LoL

 

Driver side? Wait to you get to the passenger side

 

true true...........i never had a problem taking them out but getting them in... driver side went in perfectly and then xcame the passenger side. make a long story short the hard coolant line running towards the bottom of the compartment was bent out too much and needed a little "massaging" with a crowbar to get my headers to slip in. if i would have tried that first i could have saved myself 2 hours

 

if u drop the starter it makes it alot easyier

 

Having an AC delete heater box helps a lot too

 

yes, the headre insytall alone made me wanna get rid of my a/c when i swap in the new engine

 

For future searching purposes...
The A/C bracket that needs to get cut is the one used on 87 and older cars with driver's side compressors. It looks like he's got a serpentine setup with the compressor on the passenger side so doesn't have that problem...

 

Is there a picture of how much needs to be cut?

 

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I'm glad someone finially cleared that up for me. I have been reading and reading trying to figure out why some people have to cut it and some don't.

Thanx!

 

I didn't have to cut mine, but had to grind the end down a little bit.

 

I am probably going to start my 2055 header install tonight...

I took my old cat-back off the car already, all that's left is the y-pipe and the cat. Do you have to jack the car up and take the Y-Pipe out first, or can I just unbolt the manifolds and drop it right down?

I am trying to avoid raising and lowering the car 100 times.

 

well its easier if you just leave the car up on jackstands and have something to stand on when you have to work in the engine compartment. go ahead and take the ypipe off then tackle the manifolds. but youll need the car jacked up to make sure youre gettin the heaeders in right, at least i did. i also had to unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up, if i were you id do that first thing, makes life sooo much easier.

btw i dont think anyone else has run into this problem but the hard coolant line that runs on the bottom of the engine compartment on the passenger side was in the way and my headers wouldnt drop down. i couldnt figgure out why they wouldnt fit for hours then realized THAT needed to be modified, so a crowbar took care of that. just a heads up

 

I have never taken the bolts out of an engine mount. I am assuming that you just took out the passenger side bolt and lifted the motor with a jack a couple of inches??

So what you're saying is that I should

1) Put the car up on stands about 1 foot off the ground
2) remove existing y-pipe and cat
3) remove the passenger engine mount bolt
4) Use the car jack (under the oil pan?) to lift the engine a few inches
5) Install the headers

Am I correct?

 

yea thats right. the engine mount bolt is just like a normal one. bolt and a nut. it will probably be rusted so get some penetrant on it. then hold the nut and turn the bolt yaddayaddayadda

but you might want to take the driver engine mount bolt off too. not at the same time but after you are fininsed with the pass side, it will make i easier.

to jack up the engine put a piece of wood under the oil pan so you dont mar it up and it disperses the weight of the engine

make sure when you jack it up you arent pulling on any lines, cables, wires etc and you might have to move brake lines aroujnd to get the headers to fit, make sure the headers arent touching anything, ANYTHING.

after you start it up they will smoke, thats good, and after they are finished smoking (couple of hours or driving time) let it cool and retighten the header bolts. retighten those a couple of times so they seal correctly and those thigs just love coming loose on you!!!

good luck and give it some time to install these

 

CAMAROSRUS,

Thanks for the great info I appreciate it a lot. I'll post a thread with pictures and results when I am done.

 

no problem, i know whats its like trying to do something for the first time and not konwing what to do exactly. good advise is the best tool!!!

 

Don't mean to hijack your thread or anything, but I thought I would just give an update.

My headers and exhaust are completely done. I started at 8:00pm on Friday night, worked for 4 hours then came back and worked until 4:00pm on Saturday afternoon. The catback sounds great and there is definitely a major seat of the pants difference in HP. I know it's only 10-20HP, but it's a noticeable difference none the less.

The driver’s side header wasn't too bad. Getting at the back bolts was kinda rough but we managed. The passenger side was actually really easy because of my deleted A/C. Had the air conditioning been there, I think that I may have cried like a girl. I did end up having to lift the motor slightly to get the passenger side header in place but it wasn't hard at all. It didn't take more than 20 minutes.

I am thrilled. I have been waiting all summer to get this project done and it finally is. Now I have to start thinking about my next mod... or maybe a motor?

I will try to post pics soon.

 

congrats....if you can tackle a header install then you have patience for almost anything. it does give a nice SOTP difference and an ever better sound difference. just make sure you check those bolts periodically orll you ll be loosing some

 

Locking header bolts are useful.

 

Yeah that's what I was told, so I bought a set.

I managed to get the locks on about half the bolts, I have to go through and fix the others this week.