I want to run a true dual 3in system. No cats just mufflers. Can anyone help me on how i need to set this up?

- Adam

 

PS there is a sticky at the top of this forum with all the info you need.

 

i didnt see much info on how to do it though, i mainly just saw pictures and comments on peoples exhausts.

 

I just posted this

 

Pretty much just find a setup and get what that person did, then pick your own mufflers. Expect lots of welding. I reccomend Heddman Long Tubes ($135), Heddman Extensions to drop the exhaust under the transmission/crossmember ($30), then two 3'-4' pipes ($10 each), and either get pipe to go over the axle or dump before it with a muffler of your choice.

 

thanks josh, thats exactly what i needed, and thanks to whitehawk also, thanks you guys!

 

i just did true duals. i bought the hedman long tubes not the hooker brand. hedman collectors are higher then hooker brand. i had to cut a small piece of metal off the corner of the driver side a-arm perch and i had to remove the dipstick tube and starter. they installed really easy from the bottom that way. then i reinstalled the tube and the starter.

i have the hedman x-tensions(21 bucks i think), a h pipe (like 40 bucks), 2 sections of 4' tubing (10.95 each), and 2 mufflers. pm me if you need any tips or have questions.

 

how did you run your dual? in front of the wheels? I would like to run dual exhaust in front of my rear wheels. I have hedman shorties. is it possible to run a dual setup with the shorties? what about ground clearence with your setup? Thanks for any info.

 

duals with shorties is hard and expensive. mine dump right in front of the rear axle. ground clearance is 4 to 4 1/2 inches i cant remember exactly.

 

would you happen to have any pics? I am worried about clearance and also with the heat on the surrounding things, like the fuel lines and brake lines and stuff. I am just trying to see if the dual is worth it or if I should just be like everyone else and do a cat back system.

I also have another set of headers, I don't know if they would fit my car though. they are long tubes that came off of a fulsize 1980 truck with a 350 in it. I don't know the numbers for them but I don't know what headers are interchangeable

 

sure i'll get ya some pics here in a little while. i wrapped the fuel lines on the driver side by where the fuel filter is (wrapped that too) with header wrap to keep heat off them.

you cant use it in the engine bay because the wrap can get oil soaked and catch fire. funny how its header wrap and can catch fire huh? thats what i was told anyway.

there is nothing under there other then the fuel lines to be worried about. but i will get the pics.


Kevin

 

I would really appreciate that. I was thinking today about this and I was wondering if you can use full lenth headers on a car with a t-5? I did not check out the clearence yet but if anyone on here knows for sure I would appreciate it.

 

its harder with a t-5 you might want to do a lot of research.

 

3" true duals are over kill IMO... i know i have the same kinda set up... unless you are pushin 500RWHP go to 2.5 or even 2.25"

when i get my 350 done im stepping down to a 2.25" pipe to gain some low end torque

 

I just converted to a 350 from the tbi305. I have shorties with a hedman y pipe going into the stock cat and stock exhaust. I just don't have the sound I want. I saw a car on here with dual exhaust out both sides and I liked the look of it. I was thinking 2.5 for dual or I was going to get a 3" catback. I was just trying to see if the dual is posible and still keep some form of ground clearence. If not then I will just buy a cat-back and have to be happy with what I get.

Now how much power can you get from a cat-back? I have plenty of power(for now anyway) and I would like to get a little more from the exhaust. This is where the dual would be nice. Just trying to do a little research before I buy or bend anything.

 

You're wrong on all three. Though it's just opinoin.
Harder... no.
More expensive... sure... 2'-ish more of pipe and an extra bend (per side) should probably cost what... $20 or so more than if you have long tubes ?

I have shorties (hooker).. just around $200 on exhaust from the headers to out the rear (cost relevant to mufflers chosen).

t-5, smaller trans.. more room.... least complicated x-member to modify if needed.

Of course... as usual.. I probably don't know what the h--l I'm talking about anyways...

 

did you weld that yourself? because i havent welded mine yet and i will have to pay someone. if you welded you need to think of the price per weld to get it out the back like yours.also you have to figure the extra amount for tubing.

i got new headers and new everything for 300. i bet the hooker shorties were like 259 (my old 2055s were). also you have a modded x-member dont you? i cant tell from the pic. so thats extra. and it looks like you have a relocation bar on the axle so thats more too.

but i was saying harder and more expensive then the way i did it. i guess price and difficulty depends on how he wants it done really.

 

i have hooker supercomp fulls and ground clearance isnt a problem if you have good exhaust and know how to drive.. read: learned how to drive with longtubes

 

deadbird, Does your exhaust hit when the suspension flexes? From the pic your pan-hard bar(or track bar)looks like it is close to the pass exhaust, Is it or am I just seeing things?

I live in ct where the town really does not care about the roads all that much. so there are some pot-holes and bumps and stuff. I am going to keep the car at a stock ride(for now) but I just don't want to be bottoming out everywhere and destroying my exhaust. I would like to have that hidden exhaust look also.

Monster pinck sorry for hijacking your thread, I just need to learn a few things.

 

You are correct, I did weld mine. Sorry I wasn't as thourough as I should have been with my post but... well you'll have that every so often

Even so though.. yes, over the rear will obviosly cost more but, I was more referring to the cost of making up the difference from long tubes to shorties up front. The rest of the system will cost $xx regardless.

Hooker shorties from Summit are $150. 1=5/8" pri, 3" collector. The cost for the particular shown exhaust was under $200 for the piping front to tips (includes mufflers, minus headers). The tubing came from JCWhitney. Mufflers were made for around $15/pr materials.

The x-member is indeed modified. I wantind as good or better than OEM clearance so, hack away I did.. there is another post floating about with a picture of that.
It's not 100% needed but, I just wanted the extra little bit.
Look at mw66nova's car.. his is a good example of having a clean install and good ground clearance.

Nothing on the rear had to be changed. There is a Hotchkis trackbar but, that's irrelevant to the exhaust. The brace is stock, just spraypainted (f--d) blue.

As far as clearance.. in the picture, there was over 3" clearnce over the axle.. the car is on blocks (hopfully seen) and the camera sat on the ground.. the clearance does appear tighter than it is.

This is prety much the only picture I have showing how close the pipe is.. (the cars weight is on the rear)...

 

i have the same setup as mw66nova. i asked him about his and followed it to the letter. maybe he can post some of his pics im just a little busy the last few days and havent gotten to get the pics.

so i was sort of right about shorties being more expensive and harder if you think about it. the hedman longtubes are 135, hooker shorties are 150 + extra piping and a bend to get it down where long tubes are. bending tubing or cutting pre-bent tubing is harder in my opinion then just pushing longtubes in from the bottom with the starter unbolted.

but i wont hold it against you that i was right

 

long tubes arent really that hard to get in and out... ive done it enuff to know.... lol but on a serious note... they do require a lil bit a ma-jiggling but i think that the difference in price and the power diff is worth it... plus you can say u have longtubes instead of shortys

 

its what its here for, im learning just as much as you! hahaha

 

Have you instaled them on a car with a t-5? Do you need to FLEX the tubes to make them fit? Just trying to see what I have to do to. Thanks

 

i dunno how wide the T5 is but the 700R4 is pretty wide, as wide as the trans tunnel.... i dont assume it takes up any less space than the T5.. but the only thing the headers will have trouble clearing is the starter, which the hooker supercomps at least have a removable member to clear...

one primary slides out to give you more room

 

I already have a tilton mini starter on my car. I love the thing. The battery can be weak and it will still start it. I was just worried about the dr side header fitting with the hydrolic slave cylender on the bell-housing.

 

never thought of that..... well ill find out when i convert to manual tranny... in the future of course but hey, i dont plan on losing my beloved hookers...

 

i had true duelies on my 87 z28 talk bout clearance it was hard to not bottom out i hated it

 

i never bottom out ne more.. well except when i jumped the railroad tracks doin like 50 mph.. the new suspension keeps my pipes offa the floor alott better now.. even though i bought lowering sprigns

 

any pics of the exhaust?

 

not at the moment but ill take some asap.... i dont have a lift so you'll hafto make due with a side shot at ground level......

NOTE: my exhaust is really rigged and by far the WRONG way to do true duals..... I am posting pics just to demonstrate that you can run TD and not bottom out