Well I'm installing a set of Hedman 68470 headers and 17478 y-pipe on my '83 Trans Am and I'm wondering how is a good way of containing the heat from the plugs and starter? I've looked at heat shields for starters and boot insulators for plug wires, but I'm wondering if I just wrapped the headers in heat wrap...would that solve both problems of the starter and plug wires?

 

it should. There is a spray to put on the headers after you wrap them to keep the coating from rotting.

 

I hate header warp, The problem with warping them is it speed up the wonderful rust process. I had similar headers at one time i made some plug boots from thermo guard matting and cliped it on with some aluminum wire. the mat was rated 2,000 degrees F my wires in some spots were less then a 1/4" from the some of the primaries but i never had a problem. i would just buy some thermo guard matting for the starter and use whats left over for the wires.

 

Headers should never be wrapped, it only causes them to deteriorate (burn up).

When an engine is running right the ex. temp should never get hot enough to require that.

Wrapping them is just a band-aid, fix the problem.

(50 years in the exhaust business has been my teacher)

 

Listen to Don, he's the man!

Bill

 

I believe that I have the same headers on my '85. Longtubes never fit mine and the Y-pipe for these didn't work out either. I have the shorties with a hybrid Y-pipe from a local exhaust shop.

I ended up with a Powermaster starter with a cloth like heat wrap around the starter. I used a foil type of shield for the starter and some plug wires. I'm using Scott plug wires as well.

X2 on the wrap, it's known to cause rust. The paint that's on yours now will burn off and it will rust so you could try removing the paint on there now and giving it a spray of high temp.

It may also be a chance to try a different color as well. Por-15 has some exhaust paint I've wanted to try out as well but haven't had the chance.

Here's what I was thinking of: >Link

 

Yeah, I don't intend on wrapping the headers anymore. I still want to cover the starter with something though. Not too worried about the plug wires. I think I'll probably get a Mr. Gasket aluminum heat shield when I get paid next.

 

Lol, I just re-read what I wrote and it didn't make sense. I had to use a cloth type wrap for the starter because the metal one wouldn't fit with the headers. I used something like this. >Link

 

While I understand the concern I've had the same exact headers and Y-pipe on my car for at least 5 years with no anti-heat provisions what so ever.

I agree with Dyno Don if they are getting "that hot" you got other problems.

 

I just did a big block swap with long tubes and this is the first car I've had where the heat really messed stuff up.

The headers are close to the fuel lines and oil cooler lines. If you stop moving or kill the engine and sit in this extreme heat lately It will vapor lock.

Do any of you guys know of a good place in the lancaster palmdale ca area to get headers ceramic coated?

 

http://www.jet-hot.com/distlocator.html

 

There are a few variables that I’m guessing would make a difference from stock to aftermarket.

One of the first differences is that headers take up more room and often end up closer to components than they were initially designed for. I had to switch to a mini starter because the stock one no longer fit. I’ve also noticed that some GM trucks include heat shields between the starter and exhaust from the factory. This may be a good junk yard find for someone that wants to save a buck.

IIRC, stock manifolds often included heat shields between the spark plug area that won't fit with after market headers. Headers often wrap around spark plugs from different angles while stock exhaust is often channeled to one end well away from any issues. Some factory spark plug wires do include metal heat shields as well. The 2.8 for example.

The headers being discussed have thinner walls than stock exhaust and I recall that my original Y-pipe was double walled. Heat may also be an issue from the ecu to keep the cat at operating temperature.

Increased CI and higher performance means that more heat will be produced. I’ve noticed that many 400 ci swaps also have issues with heat under the hood. Overall heat sitting in the engine bay would probably compound the issue from the headers alone.

 

another thing that may be worthwhile and inexpensive to do is a remote starter solenoid. you can piece together yourself for about $25 and it'll guarantee you won't be changing starters because of heat

 

That's a good idea if you have heat issues 1ADan.

Scorpner I know your intentions are well but you lost me. I have the same exact headers and motor as this guy. They bolted right in, no hacking required. The starter has been in there for 9 years now, 5 with headers. My fan has been "rigged" all that time it wasn't working right for a while thus the motor getting too hot and still no problems from the headers.

The only 2 issues I ever had from these headers were; 1, it didn't run right with the 1 wire O2 and needed a heated 3 wire to set the dwell right on the MCS. 2 the Y-pipe rust out very quickly and just fell apart last year and needed replaced.

Oh and a few burned plug wires but that was my fault

 

I'm not doubting you or anyone else on this, and I quite possibly am retarded (no offense anyone) but how does this help? The starter still has a solenoid in it that the power has to go through.

 

here's a link to where this was discussed previously (remote setup). post #34 has a link to how to do it and #36 is a quick and dirty explanation

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-failures.html

 

The point is that even though we may be using the same headers, our situations may still be different. You're also comparing cars three years apart and also from different development stages. Different K-member and A-arms are one thing that's been improved.

The examples also includes where GM used the very same techniques to address the same issues that we are with aftermarket products. Also, if he were to do a swap he's less likely to run into issues later on.

The biggest thing though is I've had people tell me yeah no problem it fits just great and then I end up spending time and money shipping stuff back because none of it fits in my instance. I've contacted two aftermarket exhaust companies and they offer little if any support. Just trying to save the guy the headaches is all. I hope he doesn't run into them but if he does he can check back here.

 

You are right some people have problems with bolt on kits and some people don't.

That brings up a good point. Make sure when you are putting the Y-pipe together that you leave every bolt loose (including the ones at the header flanges) until you are certain it's the correct geometry. When you look at it from the side it should be flat horizontally and not have low spots, it hugs the oil-pan too. Go around and snug everything and check again. Then go around and tighten it all solid.

 

Yep, I went through all that with them and more. To be honest, when it got to the point of suggesting that I start bending parts and that I wouldn't be able to return them when I did, I decided to send it back. I wasn't really impressed with the connection points and I recall that the seam by the oil pan sometimes leaks. I had enough when the paint kept flaking off in my hands even after cleaning them several times.

 

A couple of suggestions for plug wires if interested:

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm

http://www.scottperformance.com/home.htm