need suggestions on which header gaskets to get. when taking my headers off of my 305, i noticed the header gaskets were basically all blown out (multi layered aluminum gaskets). a friend of mine suggested solid copper gaskets but i was told by the performance shop that the aluminum gaskets were the strongest and longest lasting. i only have had the headers on for like 6-7 years, 2 of which it has been resting in the garage minus the maybe 40 days per year its nice enough to take the car out.

 

Fel-pro 1404 (or 1405)
1" long (small head) header bolts and a dab of anti-seize on the threads.

 

both are listed as steel core gaskets. are those good? also one is for vortec heads, not sure if thats quite what i need. and i have small head (7/16") header bolts, but you put anti-seize on them? i just noticed mine had started backing out, one was only being held in by the gasket, and 2 or 3 others were only hand tight anymore. if anything i was thinking of loctiting them

 

Go with copper. It has a melting point of 2,000, aluminum is around 1,200. If you ever pull the headers, you can just anneal them with a torch and reuse them.

 

I have always had good luck with MR. GASKET copper ones . well worth the price . good luck .

 

The reason the bolts back out is because they are 2 short, not enuff threads grabing in the heads. And yes, I do put a lil dab of anti-seize on them.
I have used those fel-pro gaskets on many builds over the last 20 plus years, I have even reused the gaskets a few times. I put a lil dab of anti-seize on both sides of the gaskets around the ports, helps keep them from sticking so you can reuse them.

 

thanks for the input everyone. i think i will wind up going with copper gaskets. my bolts are about 1" already. they just seem to back out on their own. would loctite just burn up?

 

That's just the nature of the beast. I would not use locktite. Look into locking header bolts. You can go cheap with spectre, around $20, or there are more expensive systems. Frankly, I'm surprised you went as long as you did without leaks.

 

there are many thoughts on header gaskets . the ones that I feel all will agree are preparation & torque . all surfaces clean , flat and smooth . torque from the center outward . re-torque same sequence . TORQUE CENTER OUTWARD , (5) 0 (3) (1) 00 (2) (4) 0 (6) ck. & re-torque several times . good luck .

 

I have had good luck with FEL-PRO MS9275

 

judging by the header gasket burnout, they must have been leaking, just not bad enough for me to hear it very well i guess. I'll try the copper gaskets, and i'll try the torquing them in place in the correct order that you listed. as for the anti-seize, i just cant see how that would help keep these from backing out.

 

Friction does not stop them from backing out, tension does. Get some 1" screws and tr torque them after your first engine hot / cold cycle.

 

I believe these are the way to go


ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits 100-1110

 

i like what uncle Tom said about nice clean surfaces. i've seen many new headers come with small pieces of welding splatter on the sealing surfaces. its always a good idea to run a file over them.

in my experience it doesnt matter how much you tighten the bolts, after the motor goes through a few heat cycles its gonna loosen up and you'll have to re-tighten the bolts. its just the nature of the beast.

 

Locking header bolts-

$$

 

I can't say the anti-seize would help with a soft aluminum or copper gaskets (the gaskets expand/contract so much and cause bolts to fall out if you don't tighten them every heat cycle) used those once, I'll never fight them again.
I know it does help keep bolts in with the fel-pro gaskets.

The only metal exhaust gasket I would use would be a MLS gasket IF they would fit the header ports perfectly.