After fighting the manifold bolts many (and i mean many) rounds, I finally got the stock smog manifolds off my car. Had to remove the ac box on the firewall to get the rear bolts out of the passenger side, and messed with them for over a week before they screwed out without breaking off. The y pipe has a bunch of holes in it and the stock manifolds leaked everywhere they possibly could. I ordered a set of Hedman 68460 long tubes. Got a good deal on them at the local O'reillys (of all places). I have read many great reviews on them, but some say they must be dented to clear, rub the frame ect... Anyone thats running them have any advice on installing them? I kind of have a limited place to install them, the car is up on ramps in my carport. Any advice before i dive off into this install would be much appreciated. They are going in a 1987 IROC/350/700r4. Also any advice on placement of the o2 sensor bung would be appreciated. I assume most exhaust shops would stock weld in bungs?? Thanks again for any advice or tips you may be able to offer.

 

To get the back bolt out, all you had to do is take out the motor mount bolt and raise the engine up. It's easier that way. Why long tubes? Shorties is easier to install. Do you plan on making lots of power in the near future?

 

I thought about going this route on the bolt, but the ac box is not that hard to get out, and the bolts were stupid tight. Had to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to get them loose. im really suprised they did not break off. As for the shorties, My y pipe is nearly in pieces, Car made pretty impressive power as it was other than the exhaust leaking everywhere. I figure the long tubes will be worth a couple of horses and i have a pair of 10 series flowmasters that i would love to run duals to and dump. Car is not a DD. No idea whats in the motor, i bought it already built. I just want to keep it clean and simple. I would like to know whats in the motor, but im not going to pull it down to see.

 

Long tubes will be a B*tch to install unless you're running a manual. Then it can be done fairly easily. If you have an auto, then you lose about half your ground clearance running the exhaust.

 

I realize they will be low. Its not a DD.

 

These cars are really not made for dual exhaust. If you run dumps, get ready for all that exhaust smell to be in your car and clothes and in your nose. Plus it will be loud. Get ready to do a lot of scraping.

 

I'm running long tubes. And dual 3" that dump right before the axle. There is no exhaust smell in the car. I'm lowered with pro kits and I've only scraped one time and it was my fault. My buddy that made the exhaust hugged very close to the bottom of the car. If it's done right, I don't think you will run into major problems. Especially if your not lowered.

 

Got the headers installed. It went without a hitch. Installed the passenger side from the bottom, unbolted the motor mount on the drivers side, lifted the engine, and installed that one from the top. Modified my P/S bracket where it bolts in the spare exhaust manifold hole on the head. My headers have ball and socket collectors on them, so i angled the part that bolts on the end of the collector (whose name i can't recall) down as much as possible without leaving a gap at the top. Looks like i am going to be able to run a straight piece of pipe under the trans cross member and tuck up by the body behind that. Next question. How much clearance do i need to leave on my fuel lines to prevent vapor lock? Looks like running them very close to the floor pan may cause issues in this area. I intend to put the 10 series flowmasters on it i have at the shop. Any advice on placement on those?