Floor Pan Chaos... What to do?
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Floor Pan Chaos... What to do?
I was recently parting out my car and someone wanted my driver side floor pan. Will I cut almost a 100% square on the top but didnt cut underneath on that fold by the drivers side door. Now I decided to keep the car how to I fix this. can I braze the cuts solid? Will it hold? or will I have to weld?
what do you guys think? Its still kinda solid, it wont go anywhere because the frame is still supporting one side and the other side hasnt been cut fully... some input would be nice. cale
what do you guys think? Its still kinda solid, it wont go anywhere because the frame is still supporting one side and the other side hasnt been cut fully... some input would be nice. cale
#2
A proper braze on sheet metal is as strong or stronger than a weld. However, in order to do it properly, you'll need to create an overlap. Since the metal was cut, that will probably require a new strip of sheet metal formed over the cut to provide a flange on both pieces being joined.
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
well, it has a a crazy cut that goes up the fire wall too... so the over lapping thing might not work for me... i will try it without the overlap and pray it works
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Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
a weld would probably be easier to bridge the small gap
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Car: 1991 Firebird with T-Tops
Engine: L03 - 5.0L 305
Transmission: 700R4
Brazing is not as good as welding, dont be fooled. If you have the option of MIG or TIG welding it. That would be much stronger and a much better idea than brazing.
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#9
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I have to make sure the car retains the title "project car'
thats why I have such great friends like you to rub it in my face to make sure i never do it again lol :P
thats why I have such great friends like you to rub it in my face to make sure i never do it again lol :P
#10
Cut a 1" wide strip of scrap metal. Overlap the panels by ½" on either side of the cut. Start brazing at the closed end, and as the strip is heated and bronze solidifies, pein the warm metal strip into the form of the floor - Into the ribs, ridges, up over the tunnel, etcetera. The joint will be stronger than spot- or stich-welding, completely sealed, more ductile and flexible (important in a floor pan) and will inherently resist corrosion.
If you were working with thicker metal with a better fitting joint, weldign would be a good option. I can only envision a fairly rough joint after partially cutting out the section, with no chance of overlap or good fitting joints.
If you were working with thicker metal with a better fitting joint, weldign would be a good option. I can only envision a fairly rough joint after partially cutting out the section, with no chance of overlap or good fitting joints.
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally Posted by Vader
Cut a 1" wide strip of scrap metal. Overlap the panels by ½" on either side of the cut. Start brazing at the closed end, and as the strip is heated and bronze solidifies, pein the warm metal strip into the form of the floor - Into the ribs, ridges, up over the tunnel, etcetera. The joint will be stronger than spot- or stich-welding, completely sealed, more ductile and flexible (important in a floor pan) and will inherently resist corrosion.
If you were working with thicker metal with a better fitting joint, weldign would be a good option. I can only envision a fairly rough joint after partially cutting out the section, with no chance of overlap or good fitting joints.
If you were working with thicker metal with a better fitting joint, weldign would be a good option. I can only envision a fairly rough joint after partially cutting out the section, with no chance of overlap or good fitting joints.
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