Welding aluminum without a $900 machine

WOW this is crazy, seems to work great on small parts though.
Sure with enough heat it would work the same on large.
Probably need 2 torches, one for the part, one to "weld"

I know its not the best but small custom none stress load parts could be easy to get done at home.

this pic is crazy, thats one strong soldered "buttweld".

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=36600.msg391787

"I received my Alumaloy, and did a little trial run, using a scrap of 3/8 inch diameter by 2 1/2 inch long aluminum of unknown alloy. Using a propane torch, it didn't take very long to get the scrap up to temperature- they say 728F. I built about a 1/8 inch dome on the end. It adhered well, and polished up nicely- see pic. The color is a pretty good match, and as you can see, it is actually shinier than the base metal."

 

I eventually broke down and got a 3000$ machine. I had an AC non inverter machine and I could weld alu with it but without the " throttle it quickly got out of hand. i also tried the alumiweld and although it worked I hated having to "battle" with the stuff to get something remotely resembling a nice weld. From the pics I can see you're much better with the torch than I am.

 

You guys do realize you can weld aluminum on a DC+ arc welder?

 

This is obviously for folks without access to more then a plumbers torch on roids.

 

Get the correct gas & an aluminum spool & fire away with your MIG. That is what I did for a living professionally for years, building big signs & such.

Plenty strong & never had a single failure, due to anything but a car hitting it.

 

I've got aluminum rods for gas welding but never got around to trying them. I've stick welded aluminum many, many years ago. My 110v MIG at home isn't set up for aluminum but the 220v one at work is. The best aluminum welds are done with a TIG machine. It's a much better way to control the heat. I've never had the chance to use a TIG but the welding I do never needs that kind of precision.

The trick to welding aluminum is that it has to be very clean. Even just grinding the metal isn't clean enough unless you have a proper wheel. A wire brush is bad unless it's stainless. I usually clean aluminum with acetone before welding it. "New" aluminum is just as dirty as old aluminum. It just looks cleaner because it isn't tarnished.

 

cool link gumby! i saw these at harbor frieght the other day, but figured it was worthless crap! im gonna pick some up and give it a whirl.
thanks for sharing gumby!

 

.D/P sorry

 

Great find.

for someone who doesn't have a welder (nor the money for one), this may come in handy. Doing a LS1 swap and may try using a truck oil pan (fbody pan big money). Chop it in half, put it back together with this stuff.

 

I remember the infomercials for this stuff. And I always wanted to give it a try.

Yes having a proper welder set up for alum is probably much better. However, I believe this stuff works plenty good enough for small brackets or decorative things. You CAN NOT ignore the buttweld-hammer test. I wouldnt go making suspension parts out of it, but I would certainly have no issues building some engine bay brackets or interior things here and there.

I might pick some up next time Im at HF and play around with it. If nothing else, just for something to do. haha.

J.

 

It's been a while since I've welded anything. Never tried aluminum welding,just steel.

 

My only problem with this is in the origanal guys test he beaded some on to peices of metal and reheated them and placed them together. so if it turn back into liquid form so easy. and at a relitivly low temp. I would be reluctent to use it under hood. I know the temps arn't that high, well maybe at my headers, but still after lots of hot soaks and vibration I see there being a problem. What do you guys think.

 

the rest of your engine compartment will be in FLAMES well before the ALUMIWELD reaches its melt temp, rubber, plastic, and most burnable components burst into flames well under 400F and it takes something like 700f FOR ALUMIWELD reaches its melt temp, btw tig welding DOESN,T REQUIRE A $900 tig welder IT COSTS EASILY 2-5 TIMES THAT FOR A DECENT TIG WELDER,(yes I tig weld and own a 330 AMP miller tig WELDER)

HERES A cheap tig welder assortment

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/diversion_165/

http://www.htpweld.com/products/tig_welders/tig160.html

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=50701

 

Ok thats a little harsh. I said I know temps arn't that high but most engine fans kick on at 220 header temps are way above that and lots of heat cycles and vibration after a year of driving?????

 

He tinned the two parts before "welding/brazing" that is the proper way, you get a better bond when "welding/brazing".

I can see a guy building a custom billet grille, dash incert...... with nuting but a dremil and plumbers torch. One for drillin, cuttin and polishin, other for "welding/brazing".

If regular solider joints don't melt uder a cars hood....................
2+2=no

 

There's the indicator. Maybe...MAYBE under perfect condtions, and the alumiweld was right on the headers, which are as hot as they can be, MAYBE the alumiweld would start to soften. But I highly doubt it. Under normal use, its not going to be an issue.

Like I said...I wouldnt go building k-members and suspension parts with it. But like Grump said...grills and accent pieces, little brackets, OR fixing original alum trime pieces would be great.

This stuff would come in handy when restoring an older car with lots of alum trim. My buddy has taken interest in this since he's putting together an old Sportster which has a ton of alum brackets and accent parts.

Ill be picking some up at the next H.F. visit. Ide like to play around with it at least.

J.

 

Might be able to modify an intake with it since intakes arent stressed and never reach the critical temp of the filler

 

That is a very good point I never thought about the wire sodder joints. I just remember the powder coat on my intake had marks melted into it where wires were touching it. But thats a lot lower melting temp product. this stuff looks really neat and I wouldn't mind messing around with it a bit.

 

Hmmm were the wires hot??? Powder doesn't melt under normal engine temps.
It cures at 385-400f

An intake should never get anywhere close to that surface temp wise, should be a bit lower then water temp as powder cools better then bare metal.

 

Well first of all it was the transparent red powder from eastwood so not sure how good the stuff is compared to profesional products and procedures. I had headers on the car and the under hood temps probably were higher than normal. And it was only after a year or so of daily driving that the wire loom left indents in the finish rather noticable when you moved the harness. I no longer have the engine so I can not take pics and is not that big of a concern to me.

 

When I was doing my Victor Jr. EFI conversion, I drilled the holes for the bungs at a pretty steep angle so the injectors would hit the intake valves. Unfortunately that made it almost impossible to weld the back end of the bungs without messing them up. So I tigged up the fronts and alumiwelded the backs. The stuff blends in well but I would not trust something 100% brazed with it. It has a tendency to crack off if not prepped properly.

 

You could scrounge up some parts and build a tig machine.

This is a work in progress, I haven't got the high frequency stuff hooked up yet, but I have used it to tig steel.

 

how do u do this?

my TIG is a shoebox tig and its only DC so i cant do anything but steels. id love to be able to get it to do aluminum soooo badly! getting the rods and tungstons is no problem for me. and i have alil argon left! please do tell.

ive seen that alumaweld stuff at car shows... it does work i have to say. my dads used it to make some brackets and fix some smashed firebird headlight assemblies

 

please show us more!!

 

plus one.
This looks very interesting.

 

OK so here's a few thoughts on this stuff.

you can weld aluminum a few ways. the stuff you guys are showing at the top is a brazing alloy. This will work very well for parts that are low stress/ornamental in nature. small bracket for a radio, or water hose, or whatever. think of the stress level as better than glue, but that the part might eventually fail at this joint.

aluminum can be welded with:
AC tig
DC tig
MIG
oxy acetylene

AC tig is relatively new and has the best workability for someone who does not weld for a living. since this in an alternating current(AC), the current needed per thickness is roughly double what you need for steel, as only half the energy gets dumped into the material. the AC provides cleaning of the workpiece, so that a better weld is more easily had.

DC tig requires high purity helium, and is also known as Heliarc process, actually the first TIG process that was developed. this is roughly equivalent to steel parameters, but high cleanliness is needed and the gas is expensive.

MIG is useful for large weldments, I would say below 1/8" material is very difficult to get adequate penetration without destroying the work peice due to blowout if you are not well skilled. the new pulsed mig units have very good performance however and provide better flexibility. $$$ though.

oxy acetylene is tough, it requires flux, but this is the oldest and most widely used form of welding. it's tough becuase it's the most basic of welding methods, and requires good hand eye coordination, plus the proper gas mixture to provide the right type of flame, along with the proper application of flux. there is just alot going on.

 

Proper oxy acetylene welding on aluminum requires great skill to make good looking and sound welds. As jwscab said there's a lot going on. Sounds like he knows what he's talking about. It should not be used in a structural type application. It works very well on thinner materials. Cobalt blue eye lenses should also be used. All welding types requires "skill", some a lot more than others. I've done a lot of welding in my life, mostly TIG & MIG, and still have "good" & "bad" days. The best welding teacher is proper instruction and LOTS of practice. Even after all of this I find some people have the touch and others don't. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. My. Later, Dean.

 

Also, you ain't getting much of a welder for $900. Dean