Ok so work is finally beginning on the camaro. It has a new dual exhaust system, and the mechanical things are getting taken care of like new calipers, realignment, anti-freeze leak being fixed, new tires, bulbs being replaced, fuses replaces for dash board, mirrors being replaced, panels being switched out, then comes all the cosmetic work after the T-top switch. And of course with that comes the paint job, and interior, and of course the main thing the roll cage. I am still learning. I tried to search posts on here for good roll cage ideas, however it also gave me alot of random stuff. I did see MadHatters post and I do like his idea of the roll cage but I know there are others out there and Id like really just to take a look around. So if you have any pics of roll cage ideas that would be great!!!! Need some help here.

 

Your easiest and best option is to buy a prebent kit designed for a third gen. S&W is one of the more popular cage manufacturers. It still requires a lot of work to install but the price of any cage is always the cheapest part. A typical chassis should will charge $100-$150 per point to install a cage. The cost could easily go up if you want interior and they have to take it out and put it back in.

I had a Jegs cage in my car for quite a few years but didn't like where I positioned a bunch of the tubes so I cut it all out and started over. I bought the prebent main hoop and halo bar from S&W then did all the other tubes myself. Mine is a full drag car with no interior and I wanted a custom fit. My cage was overkill but it had no problems getting an NHRA 8.50 certification.

If you haven't already read it, here's the link to my cage installation.

Did you want to put a full cage in your car or just a roll bar? It's not a cage unless it has a halo bar and a-pillar tubes. Do you really need a cage or roll bar? Although even slow cars can benefit from a simple 6 point roll bar, you're adding weight to the car and you make the back seat useless. Swing out door bars can make getting in and out much easier.

 

I prefer more like a role bar/ support system for the body. Because I am sure it being a t-top with a 1975 350 in it will warp or twist it with out some type of support. I do want both front seats but the rear seats I could care less about. And it will be a t-top so I'd like the t-top openings exposed as much as possible or otherwise what's the point of the t-top lol.

 

if you are just looking to stiffen the frame, i would look into some subframe connectors instead of a cage. on a street driven car a cage can be a hassle and if there is no need for one, its alot cheaper and easier to get yourself some subframe connectors.

 

Agreed. SFC before a roll bar. The roll bar does add some stiffness but doesn't tie the front and rear subframes together like SFC do.

My car still has T-tops. I can't race with them out but it sure makes getting over the cage easier when I'm working inside the car.

 

well see a guy friend of mine had a v6 in his camaro but he had other things done to it to make it alot more suped up. and his hatch glass kept breaking out because it would twist from the extra horse power i just definitely want to prevent that from happening.

 

did he cut every structural member out of the body? I don't think that even a souped up GMC 478 CI V6(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMC_V6_engine) would have enough torque to break the hatch without pre existing frame/body damage.

 

What you have to do for a roll cage depends a lot on what you want to do with it. If you want something race approved then you need to find out what organization you're going to race under and see what their requirements for a cage are.

If you don't care about racing, then I'd personally get something that's easy to get into the car with.... I think Kenny Brown used to make a cage with a low profile side bar so you didn't have to dukes of hazzard your way over the door cage. Or some cages have swing out doors, but they're not always race approved depending on who you race under.

Mathius

 

He didnt exactly say he just said with the extra horse power and it being a t-top it would twist breaking out the back glass....he said hes done it many times....I can see how it would happen on something with enough torque and not alot of bracing. but i never got confirmation of this so he could be full of crap lol.

 

Yea i dont care about racing. I would if I had the money to keep pooring into the car which at this point I do not. Just whatever I must do to get it mechanically sound and look good. I just want something to not like the upper half of the body twist or anything from the bigger engine.

 

Check out umi performance. great stuff

 

I use PCV pipe I paint it black

 

I have to agree with ericjon262. Unless he swiss cheesed the whole car I can't really imagine a V6 causing it to flex enough to break the rear glass. Unless its super rotted underneath. Not trying to call you a liar or anything, just hard to believe.

Your cheapest bet to keep a tight feeling car is sub-frame connectors like many others suggested. I have a set of Spohn sub-frame connectors on my car, and it has over 200,000 miles on it. I could teel a HUGE difference with them on. Unless your going for a race car you really don't need to bother with a cage. But it is your car, and thats all that counts. Do what makes you happy at the end of the day.

 

If all you want is to stiffen the upper chassis and give yourself somewhere to mount a harness, just make it yourself.