does anyone have any pics of the front strut bars in the engine compartment? If so, please post

 

This is all I got...

Here are the dash bars that go into the engine compartment:


Here is the engine bay:


Not a very good picture but this is the nose where I put a bar between the bumper supports and then two down bars from the engine halo to the bar between the bumper support, very stout, but adds weight to a already nose heavy car!

 

That's a stock car cage. Although it looks more than rigid enough, if I had tubes like that in the engine compartment, I'd never be able to get my valve covers off or be able to get the headers in and out. Looks good with a SBC but I wouldn't recommend that design for a BBC.

I do like the way your dash panels are attached to the dash bar.

 

Yep, not for everyone poster did not say "why", just post pics... take it or leave it.

 

^^^Anymore pics of that car?

 

Yes, pm me so we do not hijack this thread...

 

this is ceritfied for 8.50s so im sure it would work for you.
excuse the mess in the process of re-doing it

 

That looks rough but I see so many good ideas in those pictures. Making it pretty doesn't make it go any faster.

Cut out cowl
Looks like a big hammer was taken to the firewall around the tunnel
Chopped out k-member
Early 3 bolt top cover manual steering box
Dual section lower steering shaft for a clearance redirection (I should have done this myself to clear headers). I moved the steering column hole in the firewall up and over instead.
There's extra plating on the top and bottom mount points on those tubes that run from the front of the strut tower down to the frame rails
Rad support has been cut out
Motor plate mounts sit on top of the frame rails and an engine limiter can be seen above the steering box.

The forward tubes through the firewall are not required for an 8.50 certification.

 

yea that is true but the guy i bought it from was more worried about going fast so its a little rough but nothing i cant fix.
as for the tunnel some it has been cut out and reshaped so there is way more room.
the radiator support is cut for clearance and motor installatioin as it has a 1 piece fiberglass front which is SUPER nice for working on it.
i got more pics of it if you could look at it alky and give me your thoughts on it. i just bought this car and im only 19 so i would to hear thoughts from older wiser people lol
there is as thread located in body forum called my new racecar. thats where more pics are

 

hello there, my name is matt. i am new to this site and i am building a 96 z28 rag top. i was wondering if you had the exact dimensions of the rear interior so i can fabricate a roll bar (4 point) over the seats, and keep it as close to the body and rag top as possible? any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

No need to post the same question in 3 different posts. You could have easily started a new thread asking the same question.

If you have a tubing bender, you use a measuring tape and lay out patterns on the floor to make a custom bent main hoop. If you don't have a tubing bender, it's far cheaper to just buy a 6 point kit and leave off the door bars if you don't want them. A basic 6 point roll bar requires minimum 1-3/4" tubing. Minimum wall thickness for EWS tubing is .134". DOM tubing is .120". The roll bar is designed to protect you in case of a rollover. Making it out of smaller or thinner material does nothing to protect you.

A 4 point roll bar is strictly for show. It will allow you to run as quick as 11.50 at the dragstrip but then you also don't need any kind of roll bar to run as quick as 11.50.

A properly installed roll bar will also have the back brace. This makes the rear seats useless. You can still install the door bars and make it easy for street use by installing swing out door bars.

Your best option to purchasing a kit is from S&W race cars. Kits are all cheap. It's the installation that gets costly. A typical installation fee is $100-$150 per point.

 

Here is mine from sphon but i counted and i think its an 18pt...

 

 

Wow don't know how to say this but have fun trying to take valve covers off!!! I'm guess this a road race car? My big block would never fit.

Looks like a nice cage the only thing I font like is how the front part comes in front of the dash it should hang close to the a pillar and go down by the windshield. Only complaint but other wise nice looking car

 

Well im running an ls3 tt and its a show car. In that sence im bringing the engine up from the bottom and i have enough clearance to take my valve covers off. The cage bars run right over top of my headers and then the headers wrap around the cage and the turbos hang next to the cage... i also am running a willwood doubble break master cylinder and pedal assembly that mounts inside the car instead of in the engine bay to clean things up, so thd booster is not an issue now. Im also running a custom carbon fiber dash and center console that i made a mold of from a 3000gt that i made to fit infront of the dash bar.

Plus i like the look of the piller bars being shown...gots to look fly man lol

 

That looks really good in there kinda looks like 4th gen dashes. Can't wait to see the final product of this beast!!

 

well it will be at least till spring when i start working on it again, have a few plans for my 89 dd this winter. Check out my build sometime on here... been working on it since i was in highschool and college. not much older than you are 85z28kid

 

Yea it sucks having a project cuz you just want it done so bad sometimes it's unbearable lol. What's a the link I would love to check it out.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...-pictures.html