Has anyone installed one of these? Any problems or interference?
I've got an UMI adjustable torque arm with the trans mounted bushing and a 3" steel drive shaft.
The Lakewood PN 18020 won't fit without modification.
Anyone else have this problem?
thanks.

 

I installed one years ago. It fit fine with a stock style torque arm and 2.5" driveshaft. The driver side of loop was closer to the driveshaft though..

Later I added a larger driveshaft and a jegster TQ arm and just used a std. loop (not third gen tq arm style) as the jegster arm is much shorter and does not go up far enough to get in the way of std. style loop

If yours is like mine was, the fit to the body/floor is fine but it's too far over to pass. side and may cause larger driveshaft to rub on driver side of loop

 

Here's a pic of mine

 

I had issues with bmr tubular torque arm

 

I guess that would explain why my fabricator cut mine up into pieces. It never did get installed and now I have a box of parts that are pretty much useless. I'll have to build something from scratch.

 

Skinny.....what did you end up doing?

 

To tell the truth...nothing.
I had considered fabbing something out of 4" or 5" pipe but having a good look at the torque arm and how it sits with respect to the driveshaft and the exhaust, I doubt I could make it work. I'm considering the Spohn piece (as mentioned in your thread) but haven't made a decision yet.
For what it's worth, it was interference with my custom y-pipe that ended the chances of making the Lakewood unit fit. The big block TA has the Lakewood loop and besides the hassle of having to lift the carpet, it fit without any drama.
So far, tech at the strip hasn't cornered me on it. The rules state:

Driveshaft loop required on all cars running:
13.99 (*8.59) or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.49 (*7.35) seconds or slower equipped with street tires.

I'm not quicker than 11.49 (yet) and I'm thinking that so far they classify my ET Streets as street tires. If I ever did blow a front u-joint, there's that y-pipe I mentioned to at least keep things reasonably intact.

 

Any updates?
Any recent pics anyone have of using the Lakewood loop with an adjustable torque arm and a bigger driveshaft?

 

I'm still as far along as I was a couple of years ago. Which is to say nowhere.
But I'm interested in other peoples results too. If there are any.

 

Installed mine with a jegster torque arm..

No race application should have a torque arm mounted to the transmission or cross member.

-- Joe

 

I suppose "racing" is subjective and I understand divorcing the torque arm from the transmission extension housing but fixing it to the crossmember seems perfectly reasonable to me. The effects of a long vs short torque arm notwithstanding, what would be the issue otherwise?

 

I'm sorry I didn't elaborate.

I'm assuming a drag race application hence the driveshaft loop, and in making that same assumption would want a short torque arm. The trans mounted torque arm is a big no-no, and the cross member is still too far forward.

Shorter arm mounted farther back provides a better instant center, better hook.

-- Joe