My 84 Z is down for a bunch of stuff....Getting rid of the computer, and going to non computer HP Qjet, and HEI. During down time, I'm doing some maintinance on the other systems. Car is in great shape...115,000 real miles, and everything is origional, so stuff is starting to wear thin. Thia weekend I took on the Heate core, which was leaking. It had been out of the "loop" for awhile, and I wanted to have it on line when the car gets done.
I read the "replacing heater core" in the tech article section, and I recognize the instructions. I had had a mechanic look at doing the job, and when he looked up the job on his computer to tell me how much it would cost me to have it done, it was the same piece of instructions.
I just wanted to say that whoever handed out those instructions never did the job on a 3ird gen camaro!!! First of all, the "box" that you see under the panel on the passanger side is NOT the box that holds the heater core, though you can see it when you get that "lid" off. And, if any of you could reach that top screw without taking the air passage to the right side vents off, then you must be pretty small. Once you get the box panel off, you have to take off another panel, held on by 4 more screws that I'm dreading trying to line up when it comes to reassembly. The heater core is attached to the back side of this panel, and it is HELL to get out of the confined space it is in. I trimmed off a triangular "fin" on the lower left hand corner of this panel, which makes it a little easier to get back in, and only acts as a sort of vent slat. Shouldn't be any real change in air flow.
Anyway, This job is the Job from hell. You'll cut the crap out of your hands, and take a bunch more junk out of the way than the article claims. If some one knows an easier way to do this, I'd like to hear!!!

 

There is no easy way to do this. It IS the job from hell. I did the one in my '92 convertible last summer. I hope I never have to do another one.

 

I did my 84. Just removed the lower "hush panel" and then took the cover
off the heater/ac box and there it was! Removed the heater hoses and pushed
the core backwards and it fell out on the floor.

Installing the new one was no problem with just a bit of tweeking the cores
water line connections to get them thru the firewall. Hooked up hoses,
checked for leaks, replaced cover on ac/heater box, replaced hush cover
and done !!!!!!!!!!!

I also didn't understand why the tech article stated you had to remove
the entire heater/ac box assembly off the firewall ????????????

 

Welcome to TGO.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...e-82-86-a.html

JamesC

 

You '86 and older guys have it made when it comes to the heater core. My '88 or '92 is going to the mechanic if it ever needs to be changed again. Once is enough for me. Or I might just bypass it. I have used the heater maybe once or twice in either of my cars.

 

I never understood why they can't make these more accessible in any car.

 

This has to be the second time someone did this to your car. After taking off the box cover, there is another plastic cover that the core is attached to ON THE BACK SIDE with steel clips. Once that panel is unscrewed, you can press the core out, but now without some fancy pushing and shoving. There are extensions to the plastic panel which would not just fall out. Plus, you could get to the top screw under the dash pad? Like I said, unless they made this differrently at different assembly plants, yours has already been done by someone who dumped the hard to assemble parts on the reinstall

 

Just finished up my friends 87 and the trick is of course is the top bolt on the heater core cover. I used a Nut Driver that is able to be used as an extension to get it out. What this allows me to do is wedge the nut driver in there and then use my ratchet from right below the dash lip. I do not put that bolt back when I am done but it only takes me about an hour and a half tops to do a heater core now.

The nut driver is a 1/4" drive 5 inch long driver. Not sure where my grandfather got it but it is the perfect tool. You coule use one of the 4" extensions with a wabble tip and a hand racthet I would think as well.

 

That is the key to not being shipped off to a mental institution the next time you do this project.

I was able to wedge a long 1/4" ratchet extension below the dash lip, also after many failed attempts at getting that screw from below. That long nut driver sounds like a handy tool for this job.

 

It was a tricky job, but not *that* bad now that I look back on it. That top bolt was a pisser of course, but with the proper extension you can reach in from the top (dash pad + R speaker removed) and guide it in with your other hand.

Getting the core in was a bit of a pain, but I was able to ever so slightly bend the core input/outlets to get it through the firewall. By no means would I want to do it again, but it's definitely a DIY type thing.

 

C'mon guys, it wasn't that bad. The hardest part on my car was getting the heater hose clamps off at the firewall. When my car was assembled at the factory, the screws for the clamps were facing down towards the bottom of the engine. I needed 2 pivot ratchets to get at them.

My car didn't have the hush panels, so that was a step I could skip. Definately not a hard step anyway. To remove the top screw on the cover, remove the dash pad, speaker and speaker mount. I used a regular ratchet with an extension. My right hand went thru the speaker area to hold the ratchet in place and the left hand came in from underneath to work the ratchet. Removing the passenger seat definately makes getting in the area under the dash easier. Again, it's just a few nuts holding the seat frame in so not hard at all. After removing the cover, I think there were a few screws that held the heater core to another cover assembly. With the correct ratchet extensions and sockets, this was a breeze. I did have to remove my distributor cap to gain access to the heater hose clamps which also meant the TPI extension needed to be removed. Again, a few screws so no big deal. Once it was loose, I just pulled it thru the firewall. The heater core is still attached to another assembly that you disassemble when it's out of the car.

I put the new heater core onto the above mentioned assembly and fished the hose connections back thru the firewall. That was tricky, but I found needle nose pliers workd great at grabbing the connections and working it thru. The rest of the installation was reverse of the tear down. I even installed the top screw on the cover because it wasn't that bad to access when coming thru the speaker opening.

One thing I notice is everyone tries to take shortcuts to get the job done quicker, but by not removing parts and taking a few extra minutes, the overall job takes longer and is more frustrating. Taking out the front seat isn't a requirement, but it sure makes it easier and only takes a few minutes. Also, taking the speaker out makes it easier to access the top screw, but removing the speaker mount makes it even easier to get your whole hand in there and access the screw. Not hard at all!!!

 

LOL so true all I got to say is thank god my dash way cracked as well so I just replaced both of them and it only took a few hours and I had to take everything out. Looking back it wasnt that hard. But it is annoying when you cant find that last bolt holding on

 

I have no idea as I bought this car from a bud thats a wholesaler who
scores these cars from down south and brings them to NY.
Its had several owners and bought new in NC. From the looks of the
car its pretty much untouched inside or out.
But yet again whoever had it converted it from r-12 to r134.

No clips or anything holding in the old heater core. Just seems to have
A "friction" fit holding it in place. The old core has "Harrison" stamped
on it and what appears to be GM part #s.
Who knows???????????

 

This may sound lazy, but if the hoses are kinda old wouldn't it be easier just to cut them off and get new ones?

I have also heard people say it's difficult to get the pipes through the holes. Is it possible to put the hoses on the core and then feed them through the holes and have someone pull them from the other side?

 

After I changed the core last, I just left the top screw out so if I ever had to do this again it would be a 15 minute job on my 92. I have not noticed any rattles with the top screw out. I always thought 400 dollars labor was a crock until I took on this job. It was worth every penny!

 

I did cut the hoses off, but you can't pull the heater core thru the firewall with the hose clamps still on. There will also still be rubber under the clamps when you cut the hoses, so you still need to get the hose clamps off, before you remove the heater core.

I never tried the hose connection prior to feeding thru the firewall. I guess it could work.

 

The holes in the firewall are just big enough for the core pipes to fit
thru. I would think impossible to put the heater hoses thru there!

 

Oh okay. I haven't had to change mine yet.