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I was looking to do this several years ago, but finally started devoting some time to this. My 1984 Berlinetta didn't have the overhead flashlight when I bought it from the previous owner. A few years ago when I got my first 3d printer I thought about making my own. I never had access to an original to take measurements from but over the last day or two, using several pictures I found of the original light online, the measurements from the opening in the overhead console, and the dimensions of the AA batteries, etc. I was able to produce a few draft prototypes and 3d print a mock-up that fits the opening really well.
Rough draft
Now comes the time to work on designing the innards before I pretty up the design by putting a radius on the edges, adding texture, etc.
I see no point in trying to model the original light exactly and use the original components. For those wanting 100% originality they will want to find NOS parts anyways. The original technology is over 35 years old. The original design uses a #222 incandescent light that is only 0.56 watts and only has a rated lifespan of 5 hours! Using new modern LEDs will not only likely be much brighter, last longer on batteries, and last a lifetime. I figure I will also be able to add in some circuitry to add different brightness levels and flash patters to the light as well.
I know some people have found that the Homelink garage door openers from Cadillacs fit in the slot pretty well and have used them instead. I honestly think it could be possible to combine both electronics into a package small enough to fit in the overhead console slot. It will likely take me a little while and I might end up with multiple designs in the end, but I think it will be a small but real cool addition to updating my car. Customizing the exterior text for Camaros/Firebirds and other logos/designs will be real easy once I have the design nailed down. If anyone has any other cool ideas to add into the device or alternative ideas for things to use in the slot let me know!
P.S. looking at the pictures with the cheap white plastic I used to print the test piece really show how bad the overhead light lens has yellowed. Might have to try the peroxide and UV light technique to whiten that up!
If it helps, I have a flashlight that I could lend you for measurements.
I would suggest incorporating a 5mm LED as the primary light source t replace the incandescent lamp if you want to make them sorta seem like OEM reproduction. You could probably even source some tapered springs as battery contacts, some wire, a resister and a momentary switch inside under a tab printed in the case.
The sky is the limit for the whole thing though. You could design it to accept a COB LED strip and make it SUPER bright, different colors, LED controllers.....
I am in, especially if you're down for collaboration
Glad to see there are some others with interest in the project! That will definitely help keep me motivated to actually follow through this time. I'm been a bit side tracked lately as my main computer's motherboard bought the farm and I was busy troubleshooting it and shopping for replacement/upgraded parts.
Originally Posted by DaveBerlinetta
A couple ideas for the light;
Use the red section of the LEDs and add a blinking circuit to make a handy emergency flasher.
IIRC, there's a constant hot line for the map light. Instead of AA's, use a rechargable battery.
Yeah I definitely plan on adding a flasher function. Whether this is done with separate colored LEDs, or using a RGB/RGBW for the main bulb will have to be seen. I like the single 5mm RGBW approach but it might be more economical and easier to implement separate LEDs. I've also thought about the idea of making it rechargeable, but not sure on that (see below) right now.
Originally Posted by scooter
If it helps, I have a flashlight that I could lend you for measurements.
I would suggest incorporating a 5mm LED as the primary light source t replace the incandescent lamp if you want to make them sorta seem like OEM reproduction. You could probably even source some tapered springs as battery contacts, some wire, a resister and a momentary switch inside under a tab printed in the case.
The sky is the limit for the whole thing though. You could design it to accept a COB LED strip and make it SUPER bright, different colors, LED controllers.....
I am in, especially if you're down for collaboration
Yeah I'm definitely leaning towards a high power LED or COB module. Battery contacts and springs are easy to source form several electronics sites so that is no problem. I appreciate the offer to provide measurements. I think I have the overall dimensions I need from the trial and error prints I did. I don't need any dimensions from inside the case as I don't plan on copying anything from the original internal design.
My biggest concern right now is heat.
The high heat environment that the batteries will be exposed to inside a hot car in the summer - This is where I am concerned about battery selection and using rechargeable batteries. While a lot of cars are kept in garages or cooler climates, the fact is the original light was designed to be kept in the car and can be exposed to extremely high temperatures in the sun in hot climates. I suspect that may be one of the reasons these flashlights haven't seemed to survive through the decades as the max recommended storage temp for alkaline batteries is ~50°C(122°F) and the interior of a car in the sun on 80 degrees to 100 degrees can get to between 130-172°F. Alkaline might be the way to go as they are more likely to just burst and leak a little acid if they overheat. Since the original uses two AA alkaline batteries, that might be the safe way to go. 18650's and 9V batteries are too large to fit in the slot. AAA's would work too. Lithium batteries by contrast seem to handle slightly higher temperature extremes, but it shortens battery life, and if the batteries do fail they are more likely to actually start a fire.
The heat generated from the LED bulb(s) - Most modern LED flashlights use internal heat sinks and the aluminum body as a secondary heat sink. Designing a plastic body flashlight therefor offers some limitations to keep the LED's cool enough that they don't burn out or melt the plastic housing. Most of the mounted COB modules on the market are circular and too large to fit in the console's small opening but there are a few suitable ones. it is likely that under-powering the bulbs slightly can manage the heat, but I'm still reading up on it. I've also got a CNC router and I've cut 1/4" aluminum plate on it before, so making a custom rectangular heat sink, or even potentially a metal flashlight body is not entirely out of the question, but I don't know if I will take it that far.
I'll probably start ordering some parts and knock out a few prototype designs soon
Last edited by GeckoCamaro; Aug 27, 2019 at 04:04 AM.
Reason: spelling
Interesting. I've debated a few different uses for that space, including 3d printing something. Honestly, the 3d printed piece just sitting in there doing nothing looks better than the hole.
What does the original flashlight look like? I've messed with these cars since '92 and I've never seen one.
Rechargeable would be a piece of cake to do, especially since there's power up there already (honestly I'd likely use a 12V to 5V/USB converter and then use a USB 1C charging circuit, BUT, the one time that charging, discharging or just cabin heat goes wrong and a lithium cell would be a disaster. They tend to catch fire, you can't put them out till you disconnect/rectify whatever caused them to catch fire in the first place, and they leave a smoke/deposits that would pretty much ruin the car.
What does the original flashlight look like? I've messed with these cars since '92 and I've never seen one.
There is a picture I found online. Pretty unimpressive for a flashlight even 35 years ago. No lens cover protecting the bulb, The housing in completely open to the elements so its useless in the rain, etc. The latch design could definitely stand for some improvement. The 2 halves mate together with tiny clip on tabs which appear to be highly prone to breakage and probably responsible for many a thrown away third-gen flashlight. I found a site that calculates light output by bulb type and a 0.5w incandescent bulb like that showed it should produce a lowly 10-15 lumens. Most LED flashlights today easily put out 200 lumens and some much much more.
I'm with you about the rechargeable aspects. it is something I am looking into, but I have the same overall safety concerns you mentioned.
I'm with you about the rechargeable aspects. it is something I am looking into, but I have the same overall safety concerns you mentioned.
Valid point. It gets fairly hot up in that roof. Lets not discount rechargables because of a few over-hyped news stories, though. Those cells were made with Chinesium, cost over safety with those mini A-bombs. The name brand stuff has protective devices built in to prevent catastrophic failure. That's why they cost so much more. But hey, our cars are worth it, right!
Batteries aside, I think we need to define what the parameters of the device should be. After that, break it down to multiple generations of development. Start off with just a flashlight to provide proof of concept. See if it works and can be built affordably. Then add a garage opener, laser beam cutter, sattlite dish and toe-nail clipper in subsequent generations. I would guess that most people would just want a reliable flashlight.
Here are some of my ideas for a flashlight. I don't think I've ever use one INSIDE the car, so weather proof it. A simple pop-out hanger or prop to point it at the work. A magnet would be cool. It needs to be bright, but I don't need to light up the dark side of the moon ("I know I've been mad, I've always been mad...", sorry, couldn't help it )
What do you guys think?
Well, It got sidetracked for a bit, but for those of you interested in an update I wanted to let you know that I placed an order for some components this week. After researching a bit and some help from some of the flashlight builder forums, I made some initial choices in components. I have electronics components for 3-4 different circuit designs on the way so I can play around with them and experiment. As it stands right now I estimate that I should be able to get close to 200 lumens from a high output LED and still stay within the temperature limits of a plastic body flashlight. Once I have a prototype down I'll be able to see just how much further I can push it. 200 lumens is about 1/6 of what the LED itself is capable of, but even that is about 15x brighter than the original 222 incandescent bulb, and about 3 times brighter than the LED replacement bulbs for the #222 (and the flash led on most peoples cell phones) that is around 60 lumens.
I have actually run into the same dilemma. My brother and I are always restoring Camaros/Firebirds/Trans Ams. I went ahead and engineered the full, "as close to possible factory replacement", and now have a full working version. Looks nearly as perfect as the original, but works on AAA batteries, instead of AA. It also works on High output LED, that still screws into original factory socket, and looks identical in every way as original. My version also has a very nice satisfying click button
, as opposed to the original slider switch that always got gummed up/stuck. I have already matched my version up with the actual factory original in every way. It fits flawlessly, and is more satisfying than the original. It still retains original looks on the outside for the most part... Where it counts. If anyone is interested... Let me know. I am moving forward to produce. I know this is a highly sought after device, so I won't let you down.
I have actually run into the same dilemma. My brother and I are always restoring Camaros/Firebirds/Trans Ams. I went ahead and engineered the full, "as close to possible factory replacement", and now have a full working version. Looks nearly as perfect as the original, but works on AAA batteries, instead of AA. It also works on High output LED, that still screws into original factory socket, and looks identical in every way as original. My version also has a very nice satisfying click button
Very nice!
Would you be willing to share your CAD files or stl files? I'm not at all interested in a reproduction of the original, but I would love some accurate dimensions/shape of it so I could design something to fit in the space.