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So I want to replace my door panel cards and I'm not happy with the options available from the aftermarket that attempt to reproduce the OEM panels. I want different color and material options even if I want the design to be the same as OEM.
So I found some videos on YouTube of people making new cards for "classic" cars (ours definitely use classic car style panels) and I'm trying to work out a few details.
1) What particle board is best to use to make the new card? Where can I source it? Are there better materials people have used that enable upholstery to be attached to it?
2) My plastic door runners that attach to the card are all intact but warped. Will some heat from a heat gun get those bent back into shape without damaging them? What's the best way to reattach those to the new card? I'm trying to avoid buying new ones from Hawks because they are pricey and if I can salvage the old ones I'd prefer that.
3) Any other tips from people that have done this themselves? Pics of the results?
So I want to replace my door panel cards and I'm not happy with the options available from the aftermarket that attempt to reproduce the OEM panels. I want different color and material options even if I want the design to be the same as OEM.
So I found some videos on YouTube of people making new cards for "classic" cars (ours definitely use classic car style panels) and I'm trying to work out a few details.
1) What particle board is best to use to make the new card? Where can I source it? Are there better materials people have used that enable upholstery to be attached to it?
2) My plastic door runners that attach to the card are all intact but warped. Will some heat from a heat gun get those bent back into shape without damaging them? What's the best way to reattach those to the new card? I'm trying to avoid buying new ones from Hawks because they are pricey and if I can salvage the old ones I'd prefer that.
3) Any other tips from people that have done this themselves? Pics of the results?
You cannot make door cards out of particle board, because realistically door cards cannot be much more than 1/16 to 3/32" thick. Maybe you can use up to 1/8" thickness, but I doubt it. Plus, particle board will swell with moisture. I repaired mine by cutting off approximately the top 6" that were damaged, then using a piece of 1/8" masonite sheet, running it thru my planer down to about 3/32" then overlapping and gluing it to the part of the door card that was still good just above the door handle area.
I sprung for new runners at about $190.00 fir the pair, if for no other reason as they already have the means of fastening them to the door cards, and you have to remember that the build up of materials at the top of the door won't work if it gets too thick. You cannot really straighten them once they're distorted, and because of the way they attach to the cards the
y're a one-use item anyway.
You cannot make door cards out of particle board, because realistically door cards cannot be much more than 1/16 to 3/32" thick. Maybe you can use up to 1/8" thickness, but I doubt it. Plus, particle board will swell with moisture. I repaired mine by cutting off approximately the top 6" that were damaged, then using a piece of 1/8" masonite sheet, running it thru my planer down to about 3/32" then overlapping and gluing it to the part of the door card that was still good just above the door handle area.
I sprung for new runners at about $190.00 fir the pair, if for no other reason as they already have the means of fastening them to the door cards, and you have to remember that the build up of materials at the top of the door won't work if it gets too thick. You cannot really straighten them once they're distorted, and because of the way they attach to the cards the
y're a one-use item anyway.
Sorry I used the wrong terminology there. I didn't mean like MDF board, I just meant the type of cardboard that is as thick and dense as what they use from the OEM. I don't like that stuff really and would like to explore maybe using a sheet of ABS like what I bought for my headliner from Hawks. I guess I'll spring for the runners but I'm going to try and straighten my old ones out with some heat first and see if I can salvage them. I understand what you mean about the attachments I think getting those off and having it be reusable in any way will be dependent on that like you said. But doesn't hurt to try right? LOL
I replaced my upper panels years ago, then it was about $100.00 shipped. Snap-On makes a bit to remove the reversed stamped nuts.
#S9614 is 5/16" and S6103 is 3/8". If I remember correctly they were 3/8". The replacements use a push on flat clip that came with
them. I still used the original nuts because they cover more surface area. I bought those bits in then late 80's doing trim work on the
line at different dealerships. The bits were pricey back then!
Joe
I ended up buying some sheets of 48" x 24" 1/16" thick ABS sheets and some thin upholstery foam as well as Alcantara Suede, Charcoal dyed leather and carpet to mimic the OE pattern and design but with more luxurious materials. I'll have an upholstery shop sew the materials together and then I'll cut and attach the material to the board. I'm reusing the black L Shaped metal divider that I want to eventually replace with something like carbon fiber. Using the old boards as templates to cut the ABS. I'll report back how they turn out.
As far as the runner tops, i was able to get the reverse stamped nuts off by sticking a pair of snap ring pliers in the inside of the hex shape and turning them off. I broke one tab but I could plastic weld that back on if I wanted. However, i forgot i dont have new window felts and those come with the new runner tops so I just ordered new ones from Hawks.
Last edited by Blown_WS6; Jun 11, 2022 at 08:55 AM.
What are you gonna do about the stitched portion of the material. ABS is probably pretty hard to sew through.
I made a little tool to remove them inverted nuts. Works much better than my old method of gripping (trying to) the edges w/ pliers.
What are you gonna do about the stitched portion of the material. ABS is probably pretty hard to sew through.
I made a little tool to remove them inverted nuts. Works much better than my old method of gripping (trying to) the edges w/ pliers.
I'm going to have an upholstery shop stitch the carpet to the leather portion like the OEM version but not to the board. Im going to wrap the material around the panel card and glue it with 3M 77 spray adhesive like I did with my headliner. I might even forgo the stitching and fab up some sort of transiston break like the black L Shaped metal piece that goes between the velour and the vinyl on the OE panel.
