I just picked up a free 6.0 engine out of a truck that burned....My question is, are the dimensions of the block the same as an LS1 ? I am hoping to be able to put a set of AFR heads and a Magnuson Radix charger on it and run that eventually...Sound like it should work? Am I missing anything here? Any info I should know about before getting too far into the idea?

Thanks,

Jason

 

LS1 heads and intake will fit onto a 6.0 LQ4 engine no problems.

I have a buddy building one up for his '95 and he's using 241 castings from a 2000 LS1 and LS6 intake.

 

So it should be a safe bet that the short block will be the same for mounting / accesories / etc....? Thanks,

Jason

 

AFAIK my buddy is going to use LS1 accessories with his 6.0 when he puts it in his '95

 

Thank you for the info....I am under the assumption that they will interchange, but facts are good to know.

Anyone else have any knowledge confirming this or doubting this?

Jason

 

Everything should be the same. The oil pan is deeper and might cause ground clearence issues,so that will need to be changed with an f-body one.

I would assume everything that bolts onto an f-body block will bolt to the 6.0, i sold some parts off mine to a guy that was putting a truck engine in his third gen and from what i understood from him, the parts where interchangeable.

Good luck!!

 

From what I heard the LS2 is just an aluminum block LQ4 (6.0 truck motor)

 

Everything bolts between the two. every engine in the GEN III family is interchangable.

Justin

 

Well, I started cleaning it up today and found that the truck must have hit something pretty hard, as the water pump has been pushed back enough to break the aluminum timing cover and upper timing gear. The block lookes to be just fine in that area, but I have yet to get real deep into it. The crank pulley looked cracked too, so I suppose I need to pull it completely apart and check for any further damage. Anything I should specifically look for? Luckily I got this thing for free, otherwise I'd be pissed! If I pull the heads and such, and rotate the crank, should I only be concerned on if it rotates smooth? If there is resistance, I will assume it is toast....? Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Jason

 

I'd check to see if theres any scaring in the cylinder walls. Also doing a leak down test on it before you pull the heads prolly would be a good idea. Doing a cheap rebuild on it wouldnt be a bad idea if it fails leak down. How many mile's are on it?

Justin

 

I don't know how many miles are on it, everything was burned beyond recognition in the cabin area. I am most likely going to do a rebuild on it anyways with at minimal, a set of good pistons. I will get some pictures of it soon and post them.

Jason

 

the oil pan will not work due to ground clearance.
you will have to use the f body accessorys and there is a hole you have to tap out for the alternator bracket. the boss is there in the block, but not tapped.

car=lower on drivers side
truck=up high on drivers side.

all deminsions are the same. depending on the year, the cranks are a different length. you may or may not need the crank spacer for your tranny to work.

sounds like the engine has serious damage if it broke the timing cover and balancer.

good luck.