just would like to see how everyone is running the starter cables with a/c installed.

the bracket is now right where I ran them befor. (like the thridgen originaly) and just would like to see for some ideas

I plan to trunk mount the battery as well and just need some good pictures so I can decide and do this once

 

WOW no one? is this topsecret stuff or what

 

Not sure if this is the kind of info you're looking for... But I have my main power wires and the solenoid wire going around the back of the motor, over by the HVAC box, down along the chassis towards the front, then around the header, and to the starter from the front of the motor. The actual battery cable follows the other wires in from the front. Not sure where youre having an issue...just go right down by the a/c compressor. Make sure you are a couple inches away from the headers.

Some pics as visuals...

The smaller wires coming around the engine bay:


Here are the wires that Im talking about. Couple orange and the purple solenoid wire:


And here is how they enter towards the starter. The main power cable does the same:


Like I said, not sure if that is gonna help you. I should say....Im using the 4th gen battery cables as well.

J.

 

I'm pretty sure you can see mine if you look at the very last link in the first section of the sticky where I talk about wiring. I used the LS1 battery cables and I ran the lead over to the Alternator under the engine with adel clamps and Tek screws to the K member. I also wrapped the cable in a piece of black heater hose for added protection from abrasion etc. If this doesnt make sense I can get a pic for you

 

thanks,

the issue I think has been solved with a bit of work. the a/c is in the way to run it like in your picture (I have manifolds so eveything is tight to the eng.)

I ended up adding a junction block and a new cable which is fine since I will be running a rear mount battery soon.


bassically I took all the fuseable links and ran them to this block.

 

Ah... Not having long tubes makes a difference. When the a/c compressor is installed on my motor, I still route them the same way. I have a good amount of room, probably due to the headers not hugging the block.

J.

 

I only see two large red starter wires instead of three. Did you do away with the one that originally went to the AC wiring when you converted your setup to the 4th gen?

 

All of my harnesses run the starter solenoid cable and crank sensor connector behind the pass head, hugging the block and dip under the pass header. It sounds tight, but theres tons of room

I prefer the stock 3rd gen battery cables. Mine are ran direct above the AC compressor, above the mount, ziptied to the dipstick and bolted to the starter

Harness main power cables are moved off the starter to a S10 5 pole power distribution block near the battery

 

Off the top of my head, I cant remember what all I deleted. I know one of those bigger wires carries power inside to some circuits. The other MIGHT go to my HVAC. My HVAC harness is completely stand alone now, and its power/ground is right above the passenger side head. You can see it in the one picture I think.

The only other wires are for the blower relay and resistors, plus the a/c request wire which I connected with a weather pack, and sent in through my fender to hook up to the original LS1 PCM connectors.

I tried to keep everything as plug and play as possible, without getting too creative. I liked how the power wires for the starter were long enough to completely avoid the header. After all, those are some of the worst ones you want melting and shorting out. It ended up working really awesome with the 4th gen battery cables. Which, by the way, I probably wouldnt have used if I didnt use the fuse blocks as well. After moving my battery to the pass side, and mounting the fuse blocks, the battery cables were 100% perfect. And nicer/newer.

What pocket said about moving the power wires off the back of the starter is a good idea. If I ever get around to re-working my harnesses, I planned to set up a distribution block for some of my more major power connections. Until then, the blend of original 3rd gen wiring and LS1 wiring seems to be really reliable, easy to diagnose, and does the job.

J.