I don't recall seeing anyone who has. Wondering if it would be worth it. Every bit of heat control would seem to be if you can stomach the expense.

 

headers fit fine, seen a few comments about the y-pipe not tucking well to the floor and hanging low. If you are going to stomach the expense definitely pay the extra $50 to have the 3" collectors put on, those 2.5" collectors create a restriction IMO. I created my own set of headers for about $300 and they fit better than a store bought header could possibly fit for my chassis and motor placement.

 

FWIW, I had my SLP shorties ceramic-coated by Jet-Hot when I bought 'em back in 2000, sold 'em this last year to a local F-bud. They still look good, almost a decade later.

 

The 2055's in Berlinetta #1 are coated. I don't have to be sold on ceramic coating in general.

Just don't recall anyone who ceramic coated their LS1 swap headers.

I'm not doing a y-pipe. 2-1/2" should be fine.

 

I havent seen anyone coat the headers yet. Mainly because they're stainless and do alittle better with heat control as it is...plus they look good no matter what.

Be interesting to see if coating them made any noticable difference in under hood temps...to make it worth it. Also....I know nothing about ceramic coating. Can you ceramic coat stainless? Not a chem. engineer... haha.

J.

 

Yes, stainless can be coated. When they still offered them, the SLP 3rd gen headers were only available coated for the last couple of years, and they were still stainless.

Stainless retains more strength with higher temps, so if you have hot exhaust gas temps, it's the way to go (like turbo applications). Coating should be done inside and out so you aren't holding all the heat in the metal.

"Stainless" is a bit of a misnomer. They will still corrode, but not as readily. "Corrosion resistant steel" is the proper designation. When it does corrode, it tends to pit. Using plain steel tooling on it is a no-no as well, as the little bit of plain steel that transfers to it will promote corrosion. It should be "pickled" after working to remove any surface iron - not sure if Stainless Works does that or not (another cost raising process when using the material).

The outfit I talked to about fabricating headers thought plain steel would be fine and keep the cost down (they've done some work with 4th gens). They'll probably be disappointed that I'm getting the Stainless headers, but they'll get over it.

 

Cool thanks for the info.

My stainless works headers have been on for a few years now. And for a good while, while the car was down, they were on the car while it was parked in the grass. When I did my second swap, I looked them over and was surprised to not find a spec of corrosion on then. Most of what was on them, wiped away with a rag. I was pretty happy with the material quality, amongst other things.

I have seen stainless start to discolor and corrode though. And I do have to say...freshly coated ceramic headers look sweeeeeeet.

J.

 

five7kid,

You are going with the hawks swap headers ? Do you know if these headers are tuned or equal length. I was not able to find any information on these either on the hawks or stainless steel works website.
It would be good to see some flow data on these.
Just like you said, i too prefer function over function.....want to justify the $850 that needs to be shelled out.

*************corrected**************

 

Actually, I prefer function over form. I wouldn't coat them just to make them look better. If it kept them from corroding, and/or reduced underhood heat (which is reported to even improve performance), I would consider the extra expense justifiable.

I've heard that LS1's run cooler than SBC's, but hadn't heard about exhaust temp.

I'm getting a used set of the SW/Hawks headers. They aren't really equal length from the pics I've seen.

 

I have Jett Hot coated Hawks headers. You can research about ceramic coatings and see what difference it makes, it's not just a fad. Hot gasses also will travel faster through the exhaust system. Mine have 13K miles on them and they're still silver, no discoloration at all.

 

I've read your LS2 accounts, but didn't recall the part about coated headers.

It's hard to get apples-to-apples data, because 1) people rarely install headers and later get them coated with no other changes, and 2) people don't typically collect data on underhood heat.

 

From what I have been reading, Long tubes come in 3 types - equal length or tuned or untuned.

You guys think the Hawks longtube are tuned or untuned ?

For an expensive part like that , I would assume they wuld have done some flow tests. Stainless have results of other longtubes they produce on their website

 

True, it's hard to do without something like an IR thermometer.

 

Eh...I wouldnt expect that much R&D from the price. They are still considered a "specialty part"...which is where I think the price comes from. That and being stainless. I saw some pretty crappy parts come out of Stainless Works during my project...so Im not sure how much faith Ide put in them being flow tested or checked for matching tube lengths.

The way the tubes come back and go straight to the collectors, ide say they arent equal length. Fronts being longer than the backs... They do look pretty close though. I dont know anything about header flow technology...I just know they fit, work, and look great.





Just two pics for a quick ref...

J.

 

Definitely not equal length headers, but the shape of the piping that they did you can clearly see that. I tried to make mine by hand closer in length but I'm not at the skill level yet to have them all within 1/2" of length of each other like some custom shops can do.

 

In order to be equal length, the back tubes would have to have loops in them.

In order to be tuned, they have to be equal length. If they are tuned, it will be for a specific RPM range. It's better to have them untuned than tuned in the wrong RPM range. Think "TPI".

Basically, you're getting improved flow vs. manifolds.

 

i heard that lts dont flow much better just have the scavaging effect.