I spent Friday at the track with the '57, so the Camaro got neglected again. But, it got my attention again today.

Latest issues: After re-doing the light switch power lead so it has its own wire again, the starter wouldn't engage. Everything else on the ignition switch worked, but no power to the clutch safety switch. Finally chased that down today, it was a bad connection at the end of the start wire from the ignition switch at the safety switch. Frustrating. New crimped connector solved that. Nice to hear it fire up again.

Dash lights weren't working, turned out to be the chassis wire pulled out of the connector (poor crimp). Fixed that. Set the tach for the proper 4 cylinder input, now it reads correctly.

Still need to mount the PCM, wrap up and stow wires under the dash, and put the console together. Figured I'd wait to take it off of the jackstands until I was done with working under the dash. Received the lower shifter boot this week (finally), it's an inch shorter than it says it is - grrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!! Guess I'll look around locally again. I think I'm ready to mount the hood.

For exhaust I'm having duals fabricated. Got some Magnaflow spun cats and Aero round mufflers (both really cool pieces). Need to get an appointment at the shop to get that done. I've been talking to him about this project since 2008, he probably figured I'd never get it done. Borrowing a trailer to take it over there, hopefully by the end of next week.

Getting close. . .

 

nice im waiting on some $$$$ for the swap mount and crossmember and a few other things and i'll be done too

 

cant wait to see it all buttoned up

 

I got the PCM stowed, spent most of the evening on the driver side getting the kick panels reinstalled. I hadn't thought about the fact that the car only had a single pedal originally, now it has two, and the panel above the driver's legs has a cut-out for the brake pedal only - had to hack that up. Also had to rewire the trailer brake control that is mounted to that panel, managed to get that all done.

Tomorrow wrap and stow the wires from the PCM to the driver side, get the passenger side panel mounted, then I can move on to the console. Still need to find a lower shift boot, if I can't find one tomorrow I'll just install the rest for now and do the boot when I find one.

When that is done, install the hood, and it's ready for the exhaust shop.

Oh, I can't find my battery clamp bolt, hopefully the parts store will have one of those on the HELP rack.

Getting closer. . .

 

Found a Spectre shifter boot at Pep Boys that covered the hole. Wrapped around the tunnel a little on the right side, had to take the passenger seat out to drill the hole for the rear corner screw, but that made the next step easier as well.

Got the PCM and wires from driver to passenger side tucked up and the panel mounted. Moved on to the console.

The hatch release doesn't work. I'm trying to figure out the circuit. It had a big yellow wire going to the park/neutral safety switch, which no longer exists now that I've gone to manual trans (the yellow wire is the power from the ignition switch to the starter in the start position - turns to purple on the other side of the park/neutral safety switch and goes to the starter solenoid). I'm trying to figure out how to make this thing work. I think the yellow wire acts as a ground for the relay magnet circuit when the shifter is in park or neutral, and disables the release when the shifter is in gear, but I'm not sure how it does that. If anybody can clue me in how to get this thing to work again, I'd appreciate it (I even bought a new switch for the release, as the old one was one of the few things the PO hadn't replaced).

So, have the lower console in, I'm missing two screws to mount the HVAC control (they're probably hanging out with the battery clamp bolt), as soon as I figure out this hatch release circuit, I should be able to button up the interior.

Then reinstall the hood, drop it on the ground, ready for the exhaust shop.

Getting closer. . .

 

In case anyone's wondering, the hatch release relay apparently uses the starter solenoid windings for the ground. I held the yellow wire to ground, and the release worked. So, patched that wire to the new shifter boot screw, I've got a hatch release again.

Console and passenger seat are back in, stereo and heater fan work (probably going to have to get a new fan motor, it's making some bad noise on the high speeds), hood's back on, tires back on the ground. It moved forward and backward several times under its own power, the brakes stopped it, even. Clutch seems very smooth in that limited operation (except I need to trim that panel some more, it's still rubbing on the clutch pedal). Power steering hasn't purged itself yet, hopefully that will take soon (didn't want to run it a lot tonight, it was after 9:30 p.m. when I was doing that, not good neighborhood relations to be running it for an extended time with open headers at that time of night). Found a battery clamp mount bolt on the top of my bucket-of-bolts (no clue where the clamp went, though - good thing I kept the one that came with the Ultima battery I got for the '57). Had to get some black Phillips head w/washer screws for the console upper plate, couldn't find the Torx screws for it (looks fine to me, but you know how it is). Also can't find the park brake handle screw and 6-speed shift pattern plate (probably off partying with the battery clamp and console plate screws).

Now I just need to hear from the exhaust shop.

 

The exhaust shop says it'll be at least until the week of 4/26 before they can get me in. That's the week after the first stick shift race. Argh!

I'm going to try to get it washed off tonight (2 years worth of garage dust), and get some pics/video.

 

(I'd better be careful, don't want people to get the idea that I'm talking to myself. . .)

Talked to the exhaust shop again, asked if I could just drop the car off and let them work on it to fill in gaps. He said that would probably work, but would still be mid-week next week before he would have room to put the car somewhere in his shop.

That should give me a week or so to drive the car before subjecting the poor LS7 clutch to the track.

 

Yes and how does that make you feel?

 

Which part, getting it done a week earlier, or leaving it with him?

(Or did you mean the talking to myself part??? )

 

LOL just messing with ya man. Your going ape nuts lately eh? Sooo damn close you can almost taste it.. I still cant believe this is your cherry run with an LS1... whoot good times in store for shore yeeee hawww!

 

I've tossed & turned a bit a few nights in the past week thinking about getting this done, but last night was quite a feeling, seeing the car basically put back together again.

I've thought about it pretty thoroughly, and yes, even with all the rental vehicles I drive, and even though I've already committed myself to 3 LSx swaps, I've never actually driven a vehicle with an LSx powertrain in it.

 

Drop it off by my house. Ill hook you up with a mandrel exhaust in time for your race

Dont mind if the odometer moves... a bit

 

I think I'll stick to the post #8 approach.

Thanks for the thought, though. . .

(Bath complete, but I was given very strong hints that the family desired a little face time, so the pics and video will have to wait. Sorry. . . )

 

Picture orgy:

Engine compartment from right front quarter:




Air intake and upper radiator hose with power steering cooler:




Air filter with swap fuse relay center below it:




View of air inlet, PS pump, alternator:

 

Interior shots:

Seat upholstery:




Front seats, dash, console:




The stance with V6 front springs. I had backed it out onto the driveway to wash it off, backed it onto the street before pulling it back into the garage:

 

A walk-around video. Sorry for the poor narration, it was unscripted. Kept saying "dash" instead of "dash cover" or "instrument panel"; said "relays" instead of "sensors", etc. The part where you seem to be staring at the reflection in the door window forever, I was moving the drop light to the interior.

Don't worry, I'm not going to quit my day job. . .

 

Oh, I also trimmed that panel so the clutch pedal is free to move again.

The rear shocks practically lock up on rebound, and the hatch lifts are shot. Picked up new of those last night, hope to get them in tonight.

Also have a driveshaft loop that was made for stock torque arm and exhaust. Going to see if that is usable, or if I'll have to go a different route to keep the path clear for the exhaust.

 

sweet. i sure wish yall would quit all these lsx swaps. now i am wanting to sell my 99 vortec 350 and build another lsx engine. last one was a 2002 5.3 with nos that put down 450hp and 428tq with a 150 shot in a 2002 ext cab truck. between yours and pockets along with bluez i am going to start looking. my wife is going to kill me before it is all done.

by the way five7. sweet swap.

 

Their cars will blow the doors off mine. Its a DD nothing more

DS loop should still work if you're using a stock diameter DS. LS1 3" alum DS' are known to interfere with alot of loops and usually get chopped off

What route are you planning for the exhaust?

 

Like the stock routing, except there will be one just like it on the driver side. 2-1/2" from the collectors to the tips.

Just checked it tonight, the loop will have to be modified to allow the driver side pipe to go where it needs to go.

 

The shop says I can bring the car by. They'll put it on the lift between scheduled jobs. Otherwise, it's the week of the 26th before they can get it in.

Ready for the "silent treatment" (okay, maybe not "silent", but quieter):




Another view of the stance. The rear is pulled down slightly by the tie down straps:



I think I found two more of those rims. I can mount a set of slicks on that set. . .

(Finally found a use for that trailer hitch - made a nice place to hook the tie down strap. . . )

 

Hehehe that things a sleeper and a HALF! I'd be laughing at ya if you pulled along side looking for action... Looks great man

 

Put them to sleep, then


Then I'll be the one

 

Indeed! We had a couple of good sleepers back in the day. But my friends 760 Volvo sbc/t5 conversion was the best LOL it was all stock body, wheels etc. Put the biggest muff we could on it but it hauled! Not like LS1 haul but it still motivated along very well in its day. ( fifteen plus years back sigh )

 

Look who sneaked into the garage when #2 pulled out:




"I want my own LS1 and I going to sit here and hold my breath until I get mine."

 

Hahaha nice closing words.

Im outta here. See y'all tomorrow! Whoot

 

Second round should be easier dont you think?

 

I certainly hope so. This one isn't planned to be as involved (famous last words).

 

As I headed out to the truck this morning, my neighbor across the street was outside, pointed to the Camaro on the trailer and give me a thumbs-up - "Sounds great!" he said. I told him it was headed to the exhaust shop to get mufflers; he said, "Why?"

 

LOL, yeah my 5.3 isn't loud at all when I let it idle with open exhaust, I guess that's why my neighbors have'nt been bitchin. It is abnoxiously loud when I stomp on it tho....

 

This thing pounds your ear drums just idling. When I pulled it up on the trailer, though, it quieted down a little. With about a half inch space between bed planks, I guess the trailer acted like a muffler (for the reflected sound, anyway).

I dropped it off at the shop over lunch. I had to unload in a cul de sac across from the shop. The 75' or so over to his shop is the new long-distance LS1 drive for me. . . He was back in the shop where grinding, cutting and welding noises were going on, he said he heard me pull up even with his ear plugs in.

(Ever wonder what "cul de sac" means? We know what one is, but I had to Google that after I typed it - it's French for "bottom of the bag"! )