Iīve been searching a reading everything that I could possibly find on the web regarding the sticking clutch issue. Read everything on LS1.com, fbody.com and so on... But to say the least, after reading for 3-4 hours totaly, Iīm not really convinced regarding the problem OR the solution for that matter.

My cluth was working perfectly for the first 2 weeks of driving my car after it being completed. I have an adjustable MC, the GM one with a adjustable rod welded to it I think itīs named "Monster". My slave is the 2001+ GM one, brand new. The clutch itself is the stock one that the GTO t56 came with.

After 2 weeks of driving and shifting at any RPM, my cluth started to stick to the floor. Just like for sooo many others. So extremely annoying, I canīt race/compete with anything now. BMW 325īs could easily outrun me now. So Iīm back to driving my Mercedes untill this problem is solved.

Now after searching like crazy for THE solution, Iīm not sure what to think.

The drillmod: How could my clutch have worked so good for 2 weeks without it?

Slave cylinder sticking cause of heat: How could it be sticking after only 1 minute of driving. Nothing is hot that early.

Bad fluid: How could my DOT 4 brake fluid be bad after only 2 weeks? And how could it have become ruined by heat, itīs designed for brake systems that run 5-10 times hotter all day long for several years with no problems.

Master cylinder: The fact that the MC is being built out of plastic from the beginning is strange enough. But some people have changed theirs to Mcleod and Tick versions, and still have the same problem.

Pressure plate fingers: Some say that the fingers are too weak to press the SC back, but how could the fingers all of a sudden become super weak?

Any help from people who have solved this problem is WANTED badly. I read about one guy that actually bleeds his clutch system every week!! How could thgis clutch system have such a design flaw. And where/what is it really thatīs causing this thing to happen? Is it one problem or many problems?
The whole idea of building my Iroc with an LS2/T56 is so that can go to road courses and chase down jap cars and Mustangs, but as the clutch is now I canīt outrun anything at all....

 

What pedals are you using ? Was it bled properly?
What is the condition of clutch? Pilot bearing replaced ?

Iirc when I did the drill mod whie using the ls7 kit the sticking decreased

 

Pedal sticking to the floor is either the hydraulics not building enough pressure or firewall might be flexing/busted, (in my case it was both!!)

I ran the adj. Ram master(similar to Monster's) for 2 years without any problems from the pedal sticking. If you don't have a remote bleeder, I recommend you order one to properly bleed the system.

 

I have the 4:th gen pedals in my Camaro. I bled the clutch with a Mity Vac like crazy, and the clutch has been working great for 2 weeks. So the hydraulics has been bled properly. I built an extension on the bleeding nipple myself when the engine/tranny was out, so that itīs a bit easier to reach. I havent checked the firewall for flexing yet, but I will tomorrow. I did read about the whole flexing firewall issue before I put the pedals in there, so I built a little reinforcement plate that I put in there out of aluminum. But Iīm not sure if itīs working or not ;-)

Regarding the contition of the pilot bearing and clutch itself. Iīm not super sure. But my engine/tranny came out of a very low mileage 2006 GTO, so I think that the pilot bearing should be OK at least, and the clutch is NOT slipping even at 6500 rpm shifts at the drag strip.

The whole drill mod thing is really peculiar I think. I can totally see the advantage of it, but how is it that my clutch worked so well without it being done? And all of a sudden it stopped working well to say the least.

I got some really good heat protective tubing from a friend that Iīll put over the hose. at the same time Iīll also perform the drill mod, and bleed the whole thing again. In 3 weeks Iīm coming over to america and canada, so I could buy a new pilot bearing and other stuff if neccessary then. But Iīd like to drive it N O W because when itīs working, itīs just so much fun to drive.

 

So theLONG winter here in Lapland Sweden is finally over and I ordered some new stuff for my LS2/T56 swap Iroc during the 7 months of snow.

Got my Tick Performance master cylinder in the car now today. Spent a few hours for 3 days to get it there. At a first glance it looked completely impossible, but the thing would fit without having to do any kinds of mods to the car.

So I took my car for a first test-drive for almost a year now. Hoping that the Tick MC would have cured my sticking pedal/not going into gear and higher rpmīs issue. But it has NOT!!

The pedal is not sticking to the floor. But shifting at over 4000 rpm is still just as impossible as before...
What am I supposed to do now? What do I troubleshoot?

 

Did you try adjusting the MC?
For the adjustment, start the clutch pedal out very low. See if you can put it in gear with the car running. Keep backing out the adjustment nut to move the pedal higher, until you hit a point where you can shift into gear with the clutch depressed. The clutch height will most likely end up a bit lower than stock.
I had similar problems with mine a few weeks ago after finishing my swap. I was having problems getting it into gear under higher rpms. All it needed was an adjustment.

 

Hey POP6482, youīre right. I did some more adjustment to it yesterday. Now itīs back up at almost the same height as it was when I was running the stock/monster unit. Shifting is better now, but far from good. I think that my tranny (MN12/GTO T56) will come out during the next winter, and see whats going on on the inside of my tranny. It came from a low mileage 2006 GTO, but If the GTO-owner had trouble with the hydraulics he might have damaged the shiftforks and syncros I guess.

 

you still might need more pedal travel, if you're having issues above 4000rpm, or your tranny may have been abused in the gto and needs the repairs you suggested....

 

So snow is melting away here in Lappland Sweden again. The snowboarding season is coming to itīs end, AND itīs time to start with the clutch issue on my Camaro again. Iīm definitely going to buy a new clutch kit and pilot bearing before I tear down the transmission.

Iīve been considering the LS7 kit for a long time, but since my cluch is havint alot of issues at higher rpmīs Iīve gotten a bit interested in Centerforces clutches because of their added centrifugal force weights that they use on their pressure plates to counteract slippage at higher rpmīs.

What do you guys say/think? LS7 vs similarly priced Centerforce units? Or do you have any other suggestions/clutches to recommend for a stock LS2/T56 swapped Iroc

 

I like my ls7 kit..its been great for 2 years of some hard driving..its not too faund of hard track launches.I had the clutch stick on me once and only at the track on my 10th pass on a hot day lol.Great driving clutch for street.When i got my kit i opted for hd slave and pilot bearing and i suggest it to anyone else.I just ruined my pp adjusting my tick out too far ...lesson learned.

i might try a monster or spec this time around..but i like how smooth the ls7 is and still as grabby

 

I had two bad masters in a row. I think the mold is out of spec on them now so I dont recommend the GM hydrauli master anymore. I installed a TICK unit and it shifts like butter now. I had all sorts of issues last year trying to get mine to shift right.

i loved my LS7 clutch it took a licking and kept on ticking.

I have a Tex Z grip in there now. It took a while to break in but once it did? it works very well. light flywheel too.