I'm getting mixed information. Are they reuseable, or not?

Usually when a torque requirement includes an final angle, they are torque-to-yield and not reuseable. I know, for instance, that head bolts and the damper bolt are not reuseable.

But, I see references that indicate the main cap bolts are reuseable, and other references that they aren't.

Which is it???

 

Here are ARP install insructions, this is as much help as I can give you in your quest as I dont know.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-5608.pdf

Iirc the kit is around $230.

 

$237.86

Oh, well, gotta do something to get this engine build over $8k...

 

When I first got my LS1, I was thinking.... go through it.
Talked to a buddy who has a machine shop/performance rebuilding biz.
He rolled his eyes, and said all major fasteners are throw aways.... "gonna cost you". Didn't go past there in my research.
ARP sounds like they want you to go the full machine shop route, but things are reusable. Is the engine coming apart again?
GM gets a bundle if you buy their bolts list... I'd recommend an online discount dealer.
My engine was whole, so just did cam, springs, oil pump and so on.

 

I've seen engine builds similar to mine making in excess of 625 HP. I'm at high altitude, so mine will probably be short of that. However, I'm not willing to bet the farm on used bolts, so the ARP's make sense. The stud part doesn't mean that much to me, although I do understand that studs, in general, are superior to bolts.

So, not so much that I'll be taking it apart, but rather the higher strength is a measure of insurance.

Already got ARP head bolts (not studs - head studs pretty much means the engine is coming out if the heads have to come off). The Manley rods already have ARP bolts. The damper will have an ARP bolt. So, I'm pretty much there with the major fasteners, anyway. The main studs just complete the circle.

 

Like most things if your going this far.... another 250 gets you the good stuff...

 

You did see the part about Line Boring?? Just checking. Believe block will have to be bare. Getting up there in power with that build. My guess is new (every time) GM main bolts will be ok ...... just a guess.....

 

The "might as well" stuff adds up, too...

Yes, saw the align hone comment. Basic CYA stuff. Say the same about rod bolts, when you can't resize factory rods.

 

As an FYI, you can remove the suds with the heads on the car. They (ARP) now have an internal hex in the top to allow you to unscrew them.

As for main studs or anytime you change the torque settings, it can distort the bores. I actually verified this in an engine. Before the rebuild, we miked the mains, pulled a set out & replaced with studs. After the retorque, 1 spot was almost .002 out. I was surprised to say the least.

Not sure about using the factory fasteners over.... some say they are TTY & must be replaced. Others say they are just torqued with the angular methid, which does not yield the bolts, making them reusable. Either way, I never reused a set of bolts in all I have done.

 

In some applications, you can't get the head studs out of the block without pulling the engine. Perhaps not 3rd gens, but where this one is going (and my son's S10 Blazer - we tried).

Was the main distortion you observed with an aluminum, or cast iron block?

These main bolts are not like the head bolts. The yielding is evident on the removed head bolts. I don't see it on these, but will admit the threads looked "different" when I cleaned them on the wire wheel.

I'll check the mains when the studs get here. I was installing the crank to degree the cam, so pulling the mains again isn't a big deal.

 

Just FYI. Here are the stock part numbers.
#12560272 -Main Cap Bolt (~$2.60)
#12560273 -Main Cap Bolt W/Stud for windage tray (~$2.63)
#12556127 -Cross Bolts though the block into the side's of the main caps (~$1.77)

 

Both,
It proves the need to remachine afterwards.

Replacement bolts should not have the same amount of distortion as studs due to the additional tension offered by the studs fine threads.

For studs, we have clipped the stud in the head with a small binder clip to install both the head & stud at the same time.... then wind in the stud. After the head is seated, then put the nuts on.

This typically helps in tight clearance situations.

 

Well, Summit out-did themselves. The package was delivered today. So, guess I'll see when I can check all this out.

 

All the main cap bolts can be reused. The inner and outer fasteners are torque to angle, NOT TO BE CONFUSED with torque to yield. GM recommends that the side bolts be replaced, but that is primarily for sealing purposes. All you need to do is clean the side bolts and apply thread sealer.

 

I pulled it all apart and put the studs in without bearings. Worst difference in cap roundness when torqued to ARP's specs was less than .0005", so I think it'll get by without being align honed.

 

Interesting result.
I was to going to replace the main bolts in my fresh already assembled (albeit a Gen 1) small block with ARP pieces however was convinced otherwise after a little reasearch and the suggestion that a line hone would be in order.
I can't imagine .0005" making a difference but the previously mentioned .002" certainly would.