I had the 7.3l ford lower hose on my swap, it had a very slight leak at the rad connection.
What are the other options for hoses that might fit a bit better? I saw the ford 4L ranger hose mentioned, figured it might be a better fit?

 

Which water pump and radiator are you running? Do you have pics of how it's currently routed?

 

When I go to install my new ac condenser later this summer (or winter at this rate) I was going to try a Gates 21736 which I believe is from a v6 Ford Explorer

 

If you're using the stock thirdgen radiator, then the Dayco 71321 will work best. You just have to trim down both ends to get it to fit just right. Running that on my LS1 swap, and have had no leaks even after track days.

 

I'll give that one a shot as that is the other more common hose I've seen used on the swaps.

LS1, F-body accessories and stock thirdgen rad.

 

Post#127, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5747229

 

Thanks. I feel dumb for having this swap being completed in 2014 and now I'm going back to improve things.
I also have the v6 hose up top, so your post is exactly what happened to me, followed advice on here that lots of people have followed that wasn't right... And all the searching you do on here comes up with a few common answers.
I'll be machining out a fitting similar to what jags that run offers for my steam line to replace my current set up, and when I do that I'll also put the proper upper hose on.

At least I've got the proper lower hose on it's way now... And I'll finally have heat in the car with a new heater core.

 

Very clean steam line, post #367, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6007530

 

I've looked for ports on mine before, never had them, I'll look again now that I've seen this. You didn't have to run a tap in to it or anything? I've seen the fitting in the water pump but I don't want to do that in case I'm on a road trip and blow a water pump, then I would have to drill and tap the replacement just to get back on the road.

I have gone through your entire thread in the past, it was super helpful, it's just been a while since I've seen it. I've come up with my own "clean" solution for passing the wiring in through the firewall this time. Hopefully in 2 weeks I have all the work done I wanted to get done (hopefully passenger floor is in place by the end of the day today) and I can fire it back up.

I bought some knockoff flowmaster super 10s from amazon and doing a full dual set up with h-pipe, 2.5". I was going to experiment with keeping the drivers side pipe on the drivers side, but it might just be too much of a pain in the butt and not keep all my ground clearance trying to get it to clear the torque arm.

 

Nope, threads already existed for the trans cooler fittings. Fitting type and thread sizes are in the post I linked below.

The air mostly self-purged from the engine just topping off the radiator with coolant daily for 4 or 5 days. I had to add just a bit of coolant after first few drives.

 

Unfortunately I have plastic ends on my rad, no caps or anything to remove. I have checked it out a few times before, was hoping maybe I had just missed it.

 

 

Good eyes! That antique has been an awesome radiator though!