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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Am going to use this K-Member setup for my build:http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=733
Based on the type of K-member mount that this kit comes with what would be the best type and brand of engine mount that bolts to the sides of the engine? Looking for strength and durability.
I think UMI sells solid steel and aluminum mounts. I have the solid aluminum LS engine mounts and you'd never know from the driver seat. I use rubber transmission mount, and I think that is key to keeping the vibration in check.
I've noticed that UMI does not understand bolted joints with many of their product designs. I threw away the split washers, and installed some structural hardened washers, and did not follow their tightening torques.
If I did it again I'd probably go with a steel mount. I think these aluminum mounts are too soft, but time will tell.
I have a BMR k member. It's made for an LS engine to just bolt in and there are no adjustments. I used to have standard LS1 f body rubber mounts. I replaced those with the UMI f body solid mounts.
Talk to ShiftyCapone. I think he wrestled with what combination of parts go with the UMI kit.
QWK is correct. I am running the road race k-member, with their LS specific brackets (not the brackets for an LS swap with the stock k-member). I am also using the aluminum engine mounts as well. Everything bolted up nicely but I am not thrilled about the clearance between the oil pan and the k-member. I'd like a little more clearance in there. If you do go this route, I suggest getting one of the Holley pans that has more front sump clearance. I also wish the mounts used three bolts rather than four. The fourth bolt over constrains the system and limits adjustment. Less adjustment is ok with a different pan.
K-Member (Road Race) - 2407
A-Arms (Poly Bushings) - 2031
A-Arm Hardware - 3011 98-02 LS1 Fbody UMI Performance Solid Aluminum Motor Mounts - 2332
1982-1992 GM F-Body LSX Motor Mounts, Only for use with UMI K-members - 2409
Do not use UMI 2406 brackets with a UMI K-Member. These brackets work with the stock K-member only.
Dang that’s close. I have the F- body pan on my engine.
If I were you, and you didnt have money tied up in improved racing baffles and crank scrapers, I'd sell the f-body pan and buy the Holley set up. Improved racing makes a crank scraper and windage baffle for their 301 or 302 pans.
Stock pan is 11.71" from the rear edge to the main wall of the sump. The holley 302-1 is 7.4 ish. I think either pan would work. I have plenty of room above the kmember.
Getting the car back from paint in about 2 weeks. I’ll mock everything up and see how the current pan fits. If too close I’ll go with the Holly. Thanks for the specs and pics.
I abandoned the f body pan with the LS7. More info here in post #936, with dimensions of most cast oil pans. I have gobs of room with the BMR k-member though.
One thing I want to say is the Holley pan setup was a bunch of misfit parts and a really bad product. Fortunately I bought it all from Improved Racing who has an inside line with Holley. It required redesign of multiple parts, sending parts back and forth, and much patience on my side. Anybody would now get the redesigned stuff patterned after mine, so hopefully no more issues.
One thing I want to say is the Holley pan setup was a bunch of misfit parts and a really bad product. Fortunately I bought it all from Improved Racing who has an inside line with Holley. It required redesign of multiple parts, sending parts back and forth, and much patience on my side. Anybody would now get the redesigned stuff patterned after mine, so hopefully no more issues.
Wow, I am glad I didn't buy this pan a few years ago. I am still considering it, so I appreciate your R&D
i have been using the UMI road race k-member in a number of my swaps.. you can see in around post 9 and10 of my son's formula LS3 swap what we recently did. for motor mounts we used standard OEM shells with prothane inserts
Man that’s close! 1/4” is def enough with solid mounts but that’s not leaving a lot of room to move the motor in and drop it down or if you wanted to adjust it forward for whatever reason. I have a stupid amount of room with my race craft moly kmember I could prob drop the pan without removing it or raising it.
