From Testing at Willow Springs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=EQqbQ_RPU2g

 

Nice shot....

 

We are so bad **** Car and Driver writes our post race reports for us. LMAO!

http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-...maiden-camaro/

 

hellz yeah kikin ***, you should write to the author of that article or any of the lemons articles about what your long term goals for this project are, it might become a featured article

 

They know about Wounded Warrior. They are all really cool guys.

 

nvm then haha still glad that someones doing something for the people who do so much for us everyday, god bless America

 

Yes Yes....

 

I got this Zexel Torson rear diff that I will be installing on our 3rd back-up axle assy. (3.23:1 + 4.10:1 New one will be 3.90:1) It is all gear and no clutches to heat up. It is the same diff as used in the mustang cobra. It will be as effective at hour 8 and it was at hour 1. The clutch type diffs become usless after about an hour. I'm thinking the anti-lock gear could be used to flow fluid to the pinion with some scrapers and diverters attached to the rear cover. But that wouldn't send the fluid out for cooling and back. I'm thinking I could hack up a PS-pump and put a pully on the drive shaft yoke. We run mobile1 in the diff.... But that won't cool it.

 

We also have a Torsen in our 98 rear, ours is stock. I've read some complaints about the newer T2R aftermarket versions but that would only be a problem with high horsepower & large sticky tires.

These diffs. do work really well as long as both tires stay on the ground, (don't jump the curbs)

Don't think any oil channels or pumps would be necessary unless your really pushing the HP. At most just install a temp gauge. Sure is nice having extra parts!

 

Yeah I scored this one on E-bay for 80 bucks. What happens when they go airborn? When is your next race?

 

goodluck not blowing your new longblock guys

 

The Torsens have to have traction on both tires, even though the inboard tire has less traction available the unit still works. If one tire goes airborne it acts like an open diff until you land, not a big problem in a Lemons race.

Now I'm no expert but there are the stock (factory style) Torsen, T2,T2R early & late design, each is a step up in available traction but I've read some complaints about the late T2R longevity in higher HP cars with larger stickier tires, they do wear & reduce there available grip.

We picked up our 98 rear with the Torsen & LCA brackets at a PicknPull half off day for about $100.00, plus the 2 piston aluminum front calipers for $10.00 ea.

I've posted here with ya before, were probably not going to run this year (again) moneys pretty tight, although I did just get some 900lb. front springs (basically brand new) for $45.00. Still want some 200lb. rear springs but waiting for the right deal, It's not just that I'm cheap, I'm broke also!

And remember here at Halfast Racing it takes allot of dedication to take over 3 years to build a $500.00 car.

 

What cali race will you run? At Texas we were the 3rd fastest car out of 60. Our mods to springs and shocks? NONE. Cut one coil from the front. Cut bump stops on the front. The steering centerlink is bent up. 100% stock springs in the rear. The 150K+ stock Bilsteins are still in the rear. The front struts I don't know but the car hasn't been tagged since 2006 so those are at least 6 years old. All we did was new bushings, boxed all the arms and did a really good toe, caster and camber adjustment. It helps having a super sticking 275mm tire all the way around. But really... I'm taking Phil's advise and 4500rpm is the top for this beast.

 

The IROC springs are really pretty good for cheap racing 550 front, and from what I've read anywhere from 155-185 rear depending on year & options. The heavier springs help in transition from braking to throttle, you don't want to over spring the rear, if I do get some 200lb. rears I'll probably have to go to a smaller rear bar, we have a 1" right now, which is the largest offered.

We have Koni reds all around, they were on the car when it was given to me, there over 10 years old but with very low miles. The original owner of the IROC installed them and wrecked the car. A friend of mine bought the car and swapped all the parts onto his Berlinetta then lost interest, it sat for a few years & he gave it to me to race.

I'm hoping in 13 well be able to run Thunder Hill again, & Infineon if possible.

 

Good feedback... Thanks!

 

Ordered these today.... Going to put these on the front and move the 4 piston units to the rear with 12" rotors. Edit***Don't know why the pics aren't showing but here are the links.

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...emno=120-10123




I also have one of these on the way. Anyone used one before? Replaces the stock GM unit.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=260-11179

 

i dont see anything o.0

 

I don't know if I did something wrong but got no pictures! and I like pictures. (you could maybe slip in a female once in a while, you know just for fun!)

 

Added links to the post.

 

Another IROC Maiden vid from Texas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xmyfv...ature=youtu.be

 

Got a big box of stuff from Wilwood today.

Basically this is what we will be running the next race.



We switched out the rotors to non drilled and non slotted per Wilwood's recommendation. They say solid vented rotors are the right way to go for road racing. "Why give up contact surface" is their findings.

So basically we have:
Aluminum hubs in the front with 12.25" Rotors and 6 piston calipers.

Aluminum Hats with 12.25" rotors in the back with 4 piston calipers.

Adjustable proprotioning valve

Stock IROC master cylinder with IROC booster. They said that will flow as much fluid as any Wilwood master but it also has power assist. They recommend the largest piston caliper they have in the dynapro series. Almost 6" of piston area.

Should suck your eyeballs out when you hit the brakes....LOL

 

Wow aluminum hubs & 6 piston. Your brakes would finance my entire car, you know I have to hate you know, LOL!

And I agree with the drilled & slotted rotor stuff, looks pretty but with todays pad material it's just not as important, & from what little I know about Wilwoods rotor material It'll eat allot of heat no problem.

Did they talk to you about brake fluid, you know to stay away from silicone. And flush after every race, Some 600 deg. fluids come in two colors so when you flush you know when your done, really neat stuff.

I thought I was being cool with the 13" Z06 rotors with 98 Camaro 2 piston calipers, now I feel kinda wimpy-DAMN!

 

Haha We are out there for fun.... We will never win a race. Us drivers suck. Just fun to play at a road course for a few days. As for brake fluid...LOL Maybe if we run more that a 1/4 of a race we would have to address that. LOL

 

LR what rear brake set-up do you have? I might have some new spare parts.

 

We have a 98 rear, has pretty good sized rotors for stock stuff, were probably going to run the EBC Blue stuff pads, there good aggressive pads that don't necessarily kill the rotors. And sense we got it for $100.00 its hard to go wrong.

Our last rear came out of a 90 Firebird Formula that I'm thinking of narrowing to fit in my 78 Buick Nighthawk (Chevy Monza). That rear also has the large disc setup.

Kinda funny, we never finished a race yet ether, although its been driver error more than mechanical problems, some of our drivers just reeealy got excited & over drove the car, both cars, O-well, had fun while it lasted.

 

I have new drilled and slotted rotors and performance pads for that... You can have them.

 

I also have the rotors and pads (2 sets of fleet pads) for your 1990 also.

 

Awesome to see some other thirdgen.org folks running in LeMons. Some friends and I run the LiMP1 Failbird in the north-east races, and after blowing an engine in each of our first 2 races, we have now run 3 races with no major failures and are starting to get the hang of it - it all came down to engine temps (especially oil!). Can't wait to start this season with a new Roger Smith (GM CEO) theme and some nice upgrades over the winter.

Gotta give huge props to the Maiden theme... huge fan here \m/

 

so why box in the fuel cell like that? looks like the fully rated cell which shouldn't require a bulkhead

Also how do you like the torque arm mod? looks like you used the rubbers from a spare LCA or panhard rod. I have considered doing something similar as we are still running the stock rubber slide off of the tail of the trans

 

What did you do to solve the oil cooling issue? What parts failed inside the engine?

We enclosed the fuel cell and double reinforced it... Well because you know how they are about fuel cells. Better safe than sorry.

The T-arm mod was made from a jeep front panhard bar... and some strip cut into shackels. What north east races are you running this year? We are running NH and NJ.

 

First race was CT in 2010, and we went in with a motor that had bad bearings to begin with... figured we'd run heavy oil and hope. Well, hope is not a strategy... blew the motor in about 6 hours, amid a myriad of other issues (brake parts coming loose, etc).

First race of 2011 we were more careful with the next motor - checked bearing clearances etc. and the motor ran OK, but was getting way too hot. We were actually boiling the coolant for most of the first day (no oil cooler). Blew the motor late in the day on saturday - spun a bearing which ended in throwing a rod through the oil pan.

found yet another motor for the next race and installed an oil cooler (stocker from a Mazda RX7), and although the engine still runs hot, our oil temps have been staying in the 230 range.



We did a fuel cell over the winter this year and did not 'box it in'. The frame is angle iron and looks much like what you built - but bought it right from the lemons site so it's got all the correct ratings so we shouldn't need the bulkhead separation.

Did a lot of work this off-season - (STB, more camber, rear discs, fuel cell, vortec heads, rewired entire car, new simplified dash...). Still planning to box in the rear susp components and might come up with a similar solution for the t-arm / x-member... I've got tons of extra LCAs & PH rods around which I could hack up to steal the rubber bushings from.

 

What have you done to fix the temp issue? Our car NEVER gets over 210 now and our trans stays below 205. I fixed it by putting a 195f t-stat in it and the ducting. but before that we got it up to 250F several times.

 

Pics of your car? What intake are you running?

 

opened up the nose, running a 3-core radiator, and a 160 thermostat. Tried several different fans and are currently using a relatively small elec fan (which shouldn't be doing much at speed anyway...). We've tried several different ducting methods to get more air through the radiator, but nothing has made a big difference. Car still sits at 210 most of the time - not sure what else to try...

 

Put a 195 t-stat in it. It will slow the coolant down and allow for it to stay in the radiator longer. I know it doesn't make sense but that is what it will do.

Also if you are running an EGR block it off.

 

Also go to a 20lb min rad cap. that will bump the boil point of the coolant up 10 more degrees over the stock cap. Do you have TPI on it?

 

Have tons of pics at home, if I think of it I can add a few tonight. Have one handy of the engine compartment from last weekend.

We'll be at NJ, NH, WV, and NH... and we may try a Chumpcar race or 2. Will be nice to meet you guys and check out the car.

Using a Stealth dual plane intake and an old 4150 holley 650.

As far as the 195 stat - I'm sure willing to try but I don't get it. The thermal transfer should be driven by the heat transfer coefficient (of coolant to aluminum and aluminum to air), and the temperature differential between the water and the air. I'm not sure how/why water velocity should affect this? increasing the airflow certainly improves the equation so why would the water velocity be the opposite??

 

We already run a 15lb cap, and honestly, if we run hot enough for it to boil with that, we've got another issue. The only time we've boiled the coolant was when we broke down the oil in Jersey (no oil cooler...)

 

I know I know... it don't make sense... Another thing, what water pump are you running? is it from a cerp setup or did it come off a v-belt set-up. Just throwing it out there. but the later stuff has a reverse rotation impeller.

 

running a stock water pump off a v-belt car. It's possible the pump is weak but it's definitely moving water (can see when you open the cap while it's running)

 

10-4

 

So we will see you guys in Jersey?

 

y'know you've got me second guessing myself now. I took this pump off a refugee car with a completely unknown history. Though I think if the impeller was backwards it would try to flow backwards. A replacement pump has been on the list of things to try 'cause honestly there's no reason we shouldn't run cool with this big radiator and open nose.

 

It has to be something. but I wil say this...160F will not work for Road Racing. You have to slow down the cooling process or the engine will exceed the abilty for the radiator to cool.

 

Once the temp hits 160 it's a strait through put on the water - it's open circulation.

 

For sure! Looking forward to crushing a couple beers (after race hours of course) with some fellow third-genners.

I'm chafing at the bit to drive this car with all the changes from last year...

If you haven't been to NJMP you're in for a treat. Glass-smooth track with nice mix of high and medium speed turns, some elevation changes, and a very fast straight (we were hitting over ~5k rpm in 4th with our 5-speed)

Impressive that you guys are travelling so far for these races.

 

What gear are you running to hit 5K? Texas was nuts... That front stretch we hit 120mph easy.

Hell yeah! We are going to be tossing beers! we are having a band come... "The Maiden Project" we are getting kegs and everything. having to rent a pro sound and stage. It's going to be off the hook!

 

You gotta be kidding me! That will be awesome if you can pull it off! I might have to break out my old jean jacket (with a Somewhere in Time patch on the back \m/). Well you'll have our support for sure. I'd offer some of my audio equipment (PA system, etc), but if you're going so far as renting a stage I think you're way outta my league. If you guys need anything let us know as we'll be a lot closer to home than you! Have a couple other teams of good friends coming to this event as well.

 

I checked the RPO codes and it calls for a 3.23, but every time I rotated and counted the number of turns (not horribly accurate) I came up with 3.42/3.55. Either way, we just swapped to 3.42 out of a 4th gen to get the rear disc brakes. Sucks racing on drums!

 

If you can find us a place to rent the crap we'll pay for it. LOL Do they have garages at NJMP?


Drums.... Holy hell!