parts:
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Berkley, Michigan
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: 5 Spd. Manual
parts:
Hey guys, im looking for a 350 any one having a spare laying around?
Also looking for seats from maybe a 4thgen?
thanks I know u people will have something
Also looking for seats from maybe a 4thgen?
thanks I know u people will have something
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
From: Dixon, IL
Car: RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
about 200 is about the average for a 4 bolt minus the intake, engines need a rebuild, but are not 'junky'
i see you live about 5 hours away, I could get the engine 2-2 1/2 hours closer to you for a small fee
i see you live about 5 hours away, I could get the engine 2-2 1/2 hours closer to you for a small fee
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Berkley, Michigan
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: 5 Spd. Manual
I think im kinda looking for a complete engine, but ill think about it, whats the difffernce between a 4bolt and 2 bolt?
thansk
thansk
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: Eastpointe, MI
Car: 2001 Trans Am WS.6, 1985 Trans Am-RIP :,(
Engine: LS1, 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60E, 700R-4
The number of bolts on the main caps on the crank. The more bolts the stronger it is. 4 bolts are good and strong for high HP. 2 bolts are generally used for a street car. Our cars cars came stock with 2 bolt mains.
MAtt
MAtt
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
Transmission: 700R4
to help you get a slightly better idea, it's generally accepted that 2 bolt blocks are good enough to produce under 500hp, and that over 500hp 4 bolt mains are a better choice. When you buy a block, keep that in mind, i doubt your building an engine thats over 500hp, but 4 bolt mains are still prefferable. However, if a guy wants $200 for a two bolt and $500 for a 4 bolt...there's no good reason to go with the 4 bolt.
There are a few other things you should consider when buying a bare block. It's always good to deal with blocks that haven't been tinkered with much, so since your looking for a 350 block, bring along a micrometer and measure the block's bore, you want a bore thats 4.000", nothing thats been rebuilt, and you want to stay away from anything with any grooves or scratches in the bores.
Lastly, there's a casting number stamped at the back of the block where the transmission bolts to the engine itself (your going to want to check the casting number even on a complete engine unless it's a crate engine or something). Go to www.mortec.com/castnum.htm and look up the number thats on the block. This'll give you some idea where the block came from, often if it's 2 or 4 bolt, and usually lets you know whether the block has a high nickel content or not (high nickel content is good...but there's nothing wrong with a run of the mill cast iron block either).
There are a few other things you should consider when buying a bare block. It's always good to deal with blocks that haven't been tinkered with much, so since your looking for a 350 block, bring along a micrometer and measure the block's bore, you want a bore thats 4.000", nothing thats been rebuilt, and you want to stay away from anything with any grooves or scratches in the bores.
Lastly, there's a casting number stamped at the back of the block where the transmission bolts to the engine itself (your going to want to check the casting number even on a complete engine unless it's a crate engine or something). Go to www.mortec.com/castnum.htm and look up the number thats on the block. This'll give you some idea where the block came from, often if it's 2 or 4 bolt, and usually lets you know whether the block has a high nickel content or not (high nickel content is good...but there's nothing wrong with a run of the mill cast iron block either).
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,544
Likes: 19
From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
not to throw another thing at you but, you should also decide what cam you want. I say this now because if you go with a 87-up block alot but,NOT all are roller blocks (there is no need for retrofit roller lifters as the factory made them setup for roller lifters) it's just something to think about before you get a 350 and find a good deal on a roller cam with a good grind.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
Originally posted by vicV8rs91
some 350 here, 4 bolt, 2 bolt; bare, complete, my buddy has quite a few of them, and needs money to finish his big block project
some 350 here, 4 bolt, 2 bolt; bare, complete, my buddy has quite a few of them, and needs money to finish his big block project
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







