trying to upgrade my suspension, and one of my rear LCA bolts is seized to the bushing sleeve.

sprayed it with PB blaster, followed by 3 hours of fighting it.

has anyone ever actually gotten that stuff to break free a rusted bolt? I don't think i've ever had it work in all my years of working on a Massachusetts 3rd gen.

Its worked for me several times. Typically I heat up what i'm trying to get loose, then spray with pb and let it sit for a couple of hours. It most likely won't work with that bolt being stuck to the sleeve. Usually when that happens, the threads actually wear into the sleeve and won't come out. I just cut the bolt off when that happens.

PB Blaster was the only penetrant that got the rusted nuts off of my exhaust flanges. Freez-Off, WD-40, Liquid Wrench, none of them would touch those nuts.

That being said, the problem with the LCAs is that water gets into the sleeves and basically welds the bolt to the sleeve with rust. Happened to my sway bar links and both ends of the passenger's side LCA (but not the driver's side... go figure). I had to cut both ends of the LCA off and the sway links as well. And yes, I used plenty of PB Blaster on those bolts, but the rust was so bad that it wouldn't let the PB into the sleeve to break the bolt loose.

And now you know that when you go to reassemble everything, you really should use anti-seize compound liberally . My LCAs, front control arm bushings (had to cut one off of the other body), sway bar links and axle brackets, shock bolts, strut bolts and brackets, etc are all coated with anti-seize. Because I may end up taking things back apart again later.

ended up having to borrow a sawzall to get that bolt off. thankfully had a spare.

finished the entire rear of the car today (a 1 day job turned into a 3 day job, due to fighting with one bolt for over 6 hours).

now to start the front... hoping the A-arm and strut bolts cooperate...

I've used it for years, usually spray it down a day or 2 before so it creeps into the rust. For something faster Kroil works great. Sometimes though if you're in a hurry nothing beats the blue wrench.

i love pb blaster but if that doesnt work i use a torch to heat up the bolts

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works wonders

I like using "Freeze-Off". CRC makes it. smells like Pine Sol but works a lot quicker than PB Blaster

pb blaster now makes a product called pb deep creep the best stuff ever however you still need to give it a little time to work and a wire brush on exposed threds doesn't hurt I usually spray a rusted bolt several times before any attempt to loosten it works awsome DEEP CREEP (green can)

Kroil works great. Pb is hit or miss sometimes. Sometimes its takes multiple applications for some reason.

I use PB Blaster all the time with great results. I live in northern NY, big time rust belt.
Whenever possible, soak as long as you can with the Blaster.
I usually spray everything down the night prior to starting a project. Often times even severely rusted exhaust nuts and bolts will come right off!

PB has worked well for me. If I'm not in a hurry ill soak bolts for a week or so and they usually break loose. Also I see the small cans at Big Lots sometimes which are great for keeping in your car.

I've used PB Blaster for years, it works well...some stuff you just need to torch off.

Many times it has worked well for me. If I know I am doing a job on the weekend with some rusty bolts I will spray them down daily then when I do the job everything seems to go smoothly

Too late now, but thought I'd add this for future reference. A 6" C clamp and an oversized socket make a nice press to get rusted bolts out of bushings. I've done this quite a few times to get them loose. in fact, I just did it to the vertical front control arm bushings on my 4th gen last week.

I like PB blaster or often called panther ****...but a friend of mine that worked for many years in a muffler shop...told me yes spray the bolts and give it time..plus hit the bolt or surrounding area with a hammer as you spray....