I know some of U guys have these computer programs that U can enter all the info about a car and it gives a readout of what U should be running in a 1/4 mile--rpm's--torque--ETC. Could one of U put my info in and see what I should be running--I am real curious about whether my stuff (such as it is at the moment) is living up to it's full potenal. Let me know if U need any other info!

Thanks in advance!

Craig

PS--see best current times below in sig.

Bottom end OEM stock--balanced + blueprinted--ARP bolts
OEM L98 iron heads, port, polish, CC, 3 angle--Comp Cam springs
K+N Air Filters--gutted air box--air pump and egr delete
Bosch modified MAF sensor
TPIS mini-ram w/edelbrock 52mm throttle body, SVO 24#inj.
TPIS ZZ9 cam (lift .520 ex/.484 in-- dur. 282 ex/270 in)
Comp Cam Pro Mag steel 1.52 roller rockers
Hooker shorty headers--3" Flowmaster to rear bumper (cat gutted)
MSD #8366 dist.--MSD #8226 coil--MSD 6A ignition box
MSD 8.5 Super conducter wires--R+M plug wire loom
Custom burned chip
MDB SFI 18.1 harmonic fluid dampner
Randy Petty custom built 2 row alum. rad. w/dual Flexalite fans
Perma Cool remote oil cooler
ATI convertor--700R4 transmission reworked/manual valve body
B+M Megashifter, Perma Cool external tranny cooler, alum. pan
Auto Meter Sport Comp 5" Monster Tach w/shift light
Auto Meter triple piller pod--water, oil, tranny temp. gauges
TPIS Aluminum drive shaft
10 bolt rear end/4.10 posi
4 wheel disc brakes--Drilled/Slotted rotors--Hawk brake pads
Earl's stainless steel brake lines
Kenny Brown Sub Frame Connecter's
Edelbrock 4 point strut tower brace
Eibach Pro springs/1" drop--F+R
KYB AGX adj. Shocks and Struts with Spohn upper strut mounts
Jeff Valez custom T6 billet aluminum adj. panhard bar
Jeff Valez custom T6 billet aluminum adj. lower control arms
Spohn LCA relocation brackets
Spohn 4140 chrome molly solid sway bars--1 5/16" Front/1" Rear
Spohn #301 adj. torque arm with front driveshaft loop
Alpine stereo w/remote
Budnik 17" polished aluminum wheels
Goodyear F1 GS-D3‘s--255/40ZR/17 F--275/40ZR/17 R
Nittos DOT's for strip--P245/50R16 96V
‘91/’92 OEM type Aero rear spoiler
Glasstek 4”cowl induction fiberglass hood

 

What does the car weigh with driver, fuel, etc?

If you really want to know what it will run, take it to a track and find out. A guess is just a guess and isn't as good as the real thing.

 

He's got times in his signature, I think he just wants to make sure that the times he's running sound correct.

 

Without knowing the weight, any hp number can be given to get those times or a fixed hp number can be used with a lightweight vehicle to do the same thing.

Going from mid 8's in the 1/8 to 7.9's means going from a mid 13 second car to a low 12 second car.

I could scratch off at least 1/2 that list that has nothing to do with performance and won't increase the power output of the engine.

 

I know what it WILL run as evidenced by the times already shown in the first post!

From original post:
"PS--see best current times below in sig."

AS i said in the first, I wanted to see if somebody with one of the computer programs says what it SHOULD BE RUNNING! Sorry if I didn't make myself clear!

 

I don't really know the actual weight--never weighed it--I'm going to one of the local 1/8 strips to test out the new chip tomorrow--I'll see if they can accomidate.

I'm suer it weighs about the same as most IROC's do that are daily drivers--only weight saver is the hood.

I'll try and find out the weight!

 

Estimating a 13.35 1/4 mile pass from your 1/8 mile ET and guessing at a 3600 pound race weight, you should be making around 300 hp.

Since you don't have a 1/4 mile pass and don't know the race weight, what it "should" run is what you did run.

If you don't have a dyno'd hp number and don't know the total weight then everything is a guess as to what it should run. Desktop dyno can only give accurate numbers if accurate numbers are inputed. Since the heads are ported, flow numbers would be needed or accuracy is out the window.

Like I already said, if you're trying for a 7.9 second 1/8 mile pass you need to drop a full second off a 1/4 mile pass. That means finding another 100-150 hp.

 

Hopefully that will come with the AFR heads--going through the bottom end--1.6 rockers (unless I just go ahead and do a different cam)--long tube headers--possible a 58 MM throttle body (if the combination will hold it ).

 

A lot of that list doesn’t really tell us much, for example:
ATI convertor--700R4 transmission reworked/manual valve body
Could mean that you have a close to stock stall converter or a 5Krpm stall converter or anything in between.

With that list of parts and an average weight car… well, there are people out there that would be running15’s, where if everything on that list was fully tweaked you really could be pretty close to high 10’s (some of the “stockers” out there don’t have hearly as many aftermarket parts and run in the 11’s). I’d guess on average around here people would be running high 12’s to low 13’s with that combination.

FWIW, I’ve gotten basically a stock L98 with a cold air and cat back to run about the times that you’re running now.

So what have you managed? (been searching for some info and replying to random old threads for some bizzar reason)

 

Havn't been to the strip for a while--covered up at work--vacation--perrsonal crap. Everything is still the same--see sig below for all info pertaining to original post.

THANKS for the reply!

ALL THIS SEEMS UNIMPORTANT AT THE MOMENT WHEN I THINK THAT WHAT HAPPENED TO NEW ORLENS (AND THE SURRONDING AREA) COULD HAVE BEEN ME (LIVING IN HOUSTON!), AND WHY HAS THE GOV. NOT STEPPED IN LIKE THEY SHOULD WITH TROOPS AND FOOD!!!!!!!!!

PLEAS EXCUSE MY SOAPBOX---BUT I'M PISSED ABOUT THIS AT THE MOMENT!!!!!!!!