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thinking about nitrous

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
ninabl's Avatar
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From: WINDER, GEORGIA
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: POS 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: DUNN0 STOCK DISK BREAK 10 BOLT
thinking about nitrous

any ideas on what i should look for when buying a nitrous setup?
what is the difference between a wet and dry nitrous kit?
what is the avarage price payed to get a 10 lb. bottle filled?
thanx
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 04:47 PM
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
Definitly get a wet kit. I like the Zex kit, it has a better spray plate.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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From: North Ga.
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Moser 31 spline / 4.86
Originally Posted by ninabl
any ideas on what i should look for when buying a nitrous setup?
what is the difference between a wet and dry nitrous kit?
what is the avarage price payed to get a 10 lb. bottle filled?
thanx
It's usually around $22 to get a bottle filled. I've used the NOS cheater kit and liked it. Wet kit sprays fuel in with the nitrous, Dry kit doesnt. Just look for something adjustable from 50-150. I wouldnt spray over 150hp if you don't have a real good bottom end and forged pistons.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 05:33 PM
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From: WINDER, GEORGIA
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: POS 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: DUNN0 STOCK DISK BREAK 10 BOLT
Originally Posted by 1bad406
It's usually around $22 to get a bottle filled. I've used the NOS cheater kit and liked it. Wet kit sprays fuel in with the nitrous, Dry kit doesnt. Just look for something adjustable from 50-150. I wouldnt spray over 150hp if you don't have a real good bottom end and forged pistons.

i am in the process of building the motor
it is a 4 bolt block (350)
i am going with the eagle forged crank (3.750 stroke)
eagle h-beam connecting rods and i havent decided on pistons yet
i do know i want to go with 13.5-1 comp. ratio
i am taking my time on building this motor because i cant come up with much money at 1 time
i am working on the th350 tranny right now
i just ordered my TCI master rebuild kit with a b&m race band
i am also going to order a full manual valve bodie with a trans brake
still trying to figure out a good way to get better traction
i have a 305 with headers in it now and have traction problems
nick
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
13.5-1 compression. Depending on how strong your botom end is i wouldent spray to much into it. Nitrous is kinda like forced induction, the higher compression ratio the less you can safly spray.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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izcain's Avatar
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From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Wow I wish it was only 22 dollars for a full bottle here. It costs me like 40 plus. Maybe I should look around more and try to find someone else who fills lol.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
izcain....how many pounds do you usually get filled everytime you bring the bottle in. I can't remember a time I got more than 6 or 7 pounds filled. So it's around $4 a pound. Those last pound or so never give me the pressure I want out of the bottle and I don't have a bottle heater
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:38 PM
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From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Ive gotten a full ten before. Usually it is around 8 or so. Sometimes if I get the bottle totally chilled in the freezer beforehand (something I usually do) they can get the full 10 pounds in. They could be getting it all full but they dont have a pressure pump they just gravity fill the bottles. I have a bottle heater but I usually take it out and refill the bottle when it gets to within 2 pounds or so to eliminate variables. You should definitely get a bottle warmer it will hit SO much harder.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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From: North Ga.
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Moser 31 spline / 4.86
Originally Posted by izcain
Ive gotten a full ten before. Usually it is around 8 or so. Sometimes if I get the bottle totally chilled in the freezer beforehand (something I usually do) they can get the full 10 pounds in. They could be getting it all full but they dont have a pressure pump they just gravity fill the bottles. I have a bottle heater but I usually take it out and refill the bottle when it gets to within 2 pounds or so to eliminate variables. You should definitely get a bottle warmer it will hit SO much harder.
its a little over $2 a pound here. They have a pressure pump here that gets you the full 10lbs. I only ran nitrous for one race, a charity event for street cars. I borrowed a kit, had a blast with it. It was a 180 shot, Picked up my 60ft from a 1.42 to a 1.36 just hitting the button after leaving the line.
Originally Posted by xpndbl3
izcain....how many pounds do you usually get filled everytime you bring the bottle in. I can't remember a time I got more than 6 or 7 pounds filled. So it's around $4 a pound. Those last pound or so never give me the pressure I want out of the bottle and I don't have a bottle heater
Get a gauge and put it on the bottle and cap the end, turn it on, and run hot water over it in the sink until it gets to about 1200psi, by the time you get to the track, your sittin on 1050. I used a torch on mine, not smart, but all we had for the one night.

Last edited by 1bad406; Jan 8, 2007 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #10  
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
It's 4.50 a lb here and I get 2, maybe 3 runs out of a bottle depending on if it's the 210 or 250 shot. Usually down to 8 lbs before bringing it back to the shop for a fill. Friend of mine had two kits on his BBC, 250 and a 375 shot and about 14.5:1 compression. He made a test run on the street and layed down 2 black lines for the 1/4 mile
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:03 AM
  #11  
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From: Hou. TX
Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
I will say "you get what you pay for" applies to this, the more you spend on a kit the better quality parts you will receive, i see prices from 2.00$-6.50$ a pound, so multiply by 10 on an empty bottle if they have a pump and you'll get your price (20.00$-65.00$) I have a used NOS brand kit, i have no issues with it, came with warmer, purge, MSD 3 stage retard box all for 275, it was a steal but all i buy is used stuff if it is in good shape.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 12:59 AM
  #12  
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From: Damascus, OR, USA
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 383 Miniram AFR195
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt/3.70
$3.70 lb over here. So $37 to fill when empty.

If you look for them you can get a pretty good deal on a kit. The classifieds here or sometimes racingjunk.com has some good deals. I got a good deal on my original kit but have way more money in accessories now.

If you do go with nitrous get a bottle heater like izcain said. It keeps the bottle pressure up.

-Schultzy
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:10 AM
  #13  
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From: Terre Haute, Indiana
Car: 1985 Camaro
Engine: 350 .030 over (355)
Transmission: 700-R4
NX...rebuildable solenoids Its what I'm gettin come spring.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:26 PM
  #14  
ninabl's Avatar
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From: WINDER, GEORGIA
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: POS 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: DUNN0 STOCK DISK BREAK 10 BOLT
thanks

TH==thanx for all the good info
i have learned alot and decided to go with the wet jit as soon as i get a good set of pistons
any idea where i should start looking for a set of hi-compression forged pistons?
do you think my engine combo with the crank and rods will handel it?
thanks
nick
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Old Jan 10, 2007 | 10:52 PM
  #15  
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
www.cnc-motorsports.com has good prices on some stuff. I'm running Wiseco forged pistons, zero problems so far. Think I got them through Jegs before Summit started selling them. As far as the rods handling it, I'm running the Eagle H-beam 6 inch rod. I've taken the engine up to 7500 rpms hitting the limiter a couple times by mistake but usually shift around 7000 rpm, haven't punched a hole yet. Done a number of passes with a 210 shot and a handfull of 250 shot runs. Also running a 2 bolt main block with studs and a stock GM steel crank
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