thinking about nitrous
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 60
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From: WINDER, GEORGIA
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: POS 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: DUNN0 STOCK DISK BREAK 10 BOLT
thinking about nitrous
any ideas on what i should look for when buying a nitrous setup?
what is the difference between a wet and dry nitrous kit?
what is the avarage price payed to get a 10 lb. bottle filled?
thanx
what is the difference between a wet and dry nitrous kit?
what is the avarage price payed to get a 10 lb. bottle filled?
thanx
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From: North Ga.
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Moser 31 spline / 4.86
It's usually around $22 to get a bottle filled. I've used the NOS cheater kit and liked it. Wet kit sprays fuel in with the nitrous, Dry kit doesnt. Just look for something adjustable from 50-150. I wouldnt spray over 150hp if you don't have a real good bottom end and forged pistons.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 60
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From: WINDER, GEORGIA
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: POS 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: DUNN0 STOCK DISK BREAK 10 BOLT
It's usually around $22 to get a bottle filled. I've used the NOS cheater kit and liked it. Wet kit sprays fuel in with the nitrous, Dry kit doesnt. Just look for something adjustable from 50-150. I wouldnt spray over 150hp if you don't have a real good bottom end and forged pistons.
i am in the process of building the motor
it is a 4 bolt block (350)
i am going with the eagle forged crank (3.750 stroke)
eagle h-beam connecting rods and i havent decided on pistons yet
i do know i want to go with 13.5-1 comp. ratio
i am taking my time on building this motor because i cant come up with much money at 1 time
i am working on the th350 tranny right now
i just ordered my TCI master rebuild kit with a b&m race band
i am also going to order a full manual valve bodie with a trans brake
still trying to figure out a good way to get better traction
i have a 305 with headers in it now and have traction problems
nick
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: th350
13.5-1 compression. Depending on how strong your botom end is i wouldent spray to much into it. Nitrous is kinda like forced induction, the higher compression ratio the less you can safly spray.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 782
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From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Wow I wish it was only 22 dollars for a full bottle here. It costs me like 40 plus. Maybe I should look around more and try to find someone else who fills lol.
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
izcain....how many pounds do you usually get filled everytime you bring the bottle in. I can't remember a time I got more than 6 or 7 pounds filled. So it's around $4 a pound. Those last pound or so never give me the pressure I want out of the bottle and I don't have a bottle heater
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 782
Likes: 0
From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Ive gotten a full ten before. Usually it is around 8 or so. Sometimes if I get the bottle totally chilled in the freezer beforehand (something I usually do) they can get the full 10 pounds in. They could be getting it all full but they dont have a pressure pump they just gravity fill the bottles. I have a bottle heater but I usually take it out and refill the bottle when it gets to within 2 pounds or so to eliminate variables. You should definitely get a bottle warmer it will hit SO much harder.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: North Ga.
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Moser 31 spline / 4.86
Ive gotten a full ten before. Usually it is around 8 or so. Sometimes if I get the bottle totally chilled in the freezer beforehand (something I usually do) they can get the full 10 pounds in. They could be getting it all full but they dont have a pressure pump they just gravity fill the bottles. I have a bottle heater but I usually take it out and refill the bottle when it gets to within 2 pounds or so to eliminate variables. You should definitely get a bottle warmer it will hit SO much harder.
izcain....how many pounds do you usually get filled everytime you bring the bottle in. I can't remember a time I got more than 6 or 7 pounds filled. So it's around $4 a pound. Those last pound or so never give me the pressure I want out of the bottle and I don't have a bottle heater
Last edited by 1bad406; Jan 8, 2007 at 11:02 PM.
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
It's 4.50 a lb here and I get 2, maybe 3 runs out of a bottle depending on if it's the 210 or 250 shot. Usually down to 8 lbs before bringing it back to the shop for a fill. Friend of mine had two kits on his BBC, 250 and a 375 shot and about 14.5:1 compression. He made a test run on the street and layed down 2 black lines for the 1/4 mile
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From: Hou. TX
Car: 86 TA, 91 B4C
Engine: 5.3, 4.8
Transmission: 4L80 4000, T56
Axle/Gears: 4.30 M12, 23.42 10 bolt
I will say "you get what you pay for" applies to this, the more you spend on a kit the better quality parts you will receive, i see prices from 2.00$-6.50$ a pound, so multiply by 10 on an empty bottle if they have a pump and you'll get your price (20.00$-65.00$) I have a used NOS brand kit, i have no issues with it, came with warmer, purge, MSD 3 stage retard box all for 275, it was a steal but all i buy is used stuff if it is in good shape.
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Posts: 850
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From: Damascus, OR, USA
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 383 Miniram AFR195
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt/3.70
$3.70 lb over here. So $37 to fill when empty.
If you look for them you can get a pretty good deal on a kit. The classifieds here or sometimes racingjunk.com has some good deals. I got a good deal on my original kit but have way more money in accessories now.
If you do go with nitrous get a bottle heater like izcain said. It keeps the bottle pressure up.
-Schultzy
If you look for them you can get a pretty good deal on a kit. The classifieds here or sometimes racingjunk.com has some good deals. I got a good deal on my original kit but have way more money in accessories now.
If you do go with nitrous get a bottle heater like izcain said. It keeps the bottle pressure up.
-Schultzy
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 60
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From: WINDER, GEORGIA
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: POS 305
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: DUNN0 STOCK DISK BREAK 10 BOLT
thanks
TH==thanx for all the good info
i have learned alot and decided to go with the wet jit as soon as i get a good set of pistons
any idea where i should start looking for a set of hi-compression forged pistons?
do you think my engine combo with the crank and rods will handel it?
thanks
nick
i have learned alot and decided to go with the wet jit as soon as i get a good set of pistons
any idea where i should start looking for a set of hi-compression forged pistons?
do you think my engine combo with the crank and rods will handel it?
thanks
nick
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,321
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
www.cnc-motorsports.com has good prices on some stuff. I'm running Wiseco forged pistons, zero problems so far. Think I got them through Jegs before Summit started selling them. As far as the rods handling it, I'm running the Eagle H-beam 6 inch rod. I've taken the engine up to 7500 rpms hitting the limiter a couple times by mistake but usually shift around 7000 rpm, haven't punched a hole yet. Done a number of passes with a 210 shot and a handfull of 250 shot runs. Also running a 2 bolt main block with studs and a stock GM steel crank
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