went to the track yesterday and after every pass the wingnut for my airfilter was getting more and more bent towards the driverside. i look up on my hood and the air filter is hitting it and the motor is leaning to the passenger side of the car. i had put washers on the motor mount shell for the passenger side to correct this last year and now it did it again. it looks like i broke the shell on the driverside. what do i need to do to keep this from happening? chain it down? elephant ear set up? any ideas would be great.

 

poly mounts or solid mounts

 

already put in energy suspension poly mounts. still not working.

 

I ran moroso solid mounts on my car with no issues for years.

 

i got the me ones, the only way to go unless you run a mid plate and a motor plate

 

Add a engine limiter on the front. Tie it into the frame rail and bolt it to the front of the drivers side head.

 

im interested in the limiter only because the mounts are a pain on these cars.

 

JEGS and Summit sells them. S&W has there version also.

Most come with rod ends and are adjustable. Even with stock mounts, it will make a difference.

http://www.swracecars.com/shopdispla...ch=Yes&sppp=15
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_56956_-1

One of these should work.

 

who on here is running one? pics?

 

you just run the cable from the head bolt on the drivers side down to the frame. 99% of the buick GN guys are running one, I'm sure a google image search would turn up 100s of pics of it.

 

From the sounds of your first post you already have a broken mount. The limiter is good to prevent the mount from braking but I wouldn't use it to crutch an already broken mount. If doing a limiter from the head I would make a plate that uses atleast 2 of the holes to mount to with a stud in the middle to mount the cable.This will spread the load out so there is no chance of it pulling the bolt out and damaging the head,especially important on an aluminum head. It may be overkill but thats how I have done limiters on cars in the past. Better safe than sorry.

 

Dead on!!! My uncle is too hard headed to put solid mounts in his track only S10 (too much dumbazzed hot rod magazine) but anyways, i told him at the very least it needs something to stop the engine from moving soo much side to side with the poly mounts we installed...it was nothing for it rock 1" to the side when gooseing it. I fabbed up a plate that connected all three accessory holes on the front of the head, and then welded a stud to the center of this plate. We just bought a heavy duty turn buckle (1/2" turnbuckle with dual eyelets) from menards and made a mount on the chasis...adjusted turnbuckle to fit both moutning points, dun deal..no mo engine rocking, and any stress is spread throughout the front of the head instead of one bolt hole.

 

i think i broke the shell not the mount itself. i put in the energy suspension mounts when i put the motor in. i hope they arent broke it was a pain to put in.

 

When and if thay do just use the moroso mounts I have used them from day one in my car even when it was daily driven. I have replaiced the mounts on the motor once I noticed the ears had cracks on both sides but you have to remember thay did have a ton of miles on them at that point.

 

thats where i saw that they were bent or cracked right where the ears are. im sure thats what happened.

 

a little trick to make changing motor mounts on the car much easier...we did mine with everything minus the engine in the car, we had car jacked up in the air, inserted the bolts through the engine bay side so nutz have to be installed inside k member behind/between a arms..you know where i'm talking about.

the trick to make life muuuch easier and expediate this job...stick a magnet on the bolt on the engine bay side, magnetizing the bolt....the washers/nutt will literally suck right upto and stick to the bolt your working on, and will have enough tension you can roll the washers/nut around until you get them positioned just right...easy beans, glad my buddy showed me that yrs back, have used that trick countless times since

 

Now how the heck am I going to remember that till the next time I swap motor mounts in a car?

 

I promise, just do it ONCE, and it's something you'll carry in your bag of tricks forever. i just used it again swapping a arms out on my sled since the washer/nuts had to go down by the belly pan in a tiiiny opening i could barely fit my fingers dow inside of...worked like a champ

 

ok went to the track last night and the mount is definatly broken,on one pass the motor torque over so bad the valve cover hit the evap housing for the ac and made my rocker arms rub on the inside. with that and my first nitrous backfire it sounded like the motor was done. pulled the valve cover and turned it over everything looked good so we put it back on and it was fine but there were marks where the rockers were hitting. so im gonna order some moroso solid mounts. am i going wrong here?

 

running on a known broken motor mount and juicing in top of that??? LMAO!! Darwin candidate

Get some solid mounts and be done with it, and dont do run on a broken mount again, I'd be more concerned with snapping the trans housing than anything on the engine other than pulling hoses off....wow LOL.

 

i knew the motor was leaning but i didnt think the mount was broken yet. i would definatly say that it is now.

 

you're saying the rockers are hitting the inside of the valve cover? what valve covers do you have ?

 

they are billet specialty covers. they were shifted enough to make them hit on the bottom. sounded like a rod knock. just bought some solid mounts from radial tire king.

 

got the solids in my energy suspension mounts look like they tried to twist in the shell. there are two big indents where they were twisted. hope to go back to the track next week to spin some more.

 

took my car out last firday and the car went 1.33 60ft and 6.29 in the 1/8th

 

was this at spin world? if so the track must have been damn good. im going wednesday.

 

hell yeah that was a speedworld

 

Heh, I did that once with a mount that wasn’t even fully broken, just going that way. In one pass I managed to completely break the mount, ripped apart the tranny mount, the water pump mounted fan hit the fan shroud hard enough that it cracked the pump casting spewing coolant all over the place and the throttle body hit the hood and put a big dent in it. I actually strapped everything down with some hose clamps and drove it home stopping every 5 min to refill the radiator.

The moroso mounts require replacing both the crossmember and the engine side, right?

 

That's what I was going to say. If you don't get the engine in there without movement, you ARE going to be replacing the trans. Or at the very least the bellhousing on it. i've broken 3 th350s, and I used a solid mount on the drivers side. Now I have the engine mounted solid and a urathane trans mount, with a JW bellhousing. I just built a glide and the first thing I did was cut the stock bellhousing off of it. I'd still use a limit strap of some kind, even with steel mounts. Spread the load out a little, won't hurt a thing.

 

solid mounts FTW!!!!! been running them on my car for a couple years now.. sounds like you need mounts so just replace em with the solid ones.. do it right, do it once..

 

All my junk bolted right in? guess i never heard of those troubles...might be i got lucky LOL!!?



Frind of mine was going through TH400's every month, old tired azzed 70' chevelle that his dad raced after he bought it new...so basically 30 yrs of racing on the car, then he built a nice 500+ BBC that will push the 4000lb car into the high 10's....no cage, just a factory chevelle....hmmmm, after the 3rd one i wanted to slap him since he kept blaming the tranny builder...fockin idiot.

 

Are solid mounts noisy? Like too noisy enough for a partially street driven car?

 

Define partially, as in driving half on the street and half on the shoulder?

I would say for a toy, no they're not...for a daily driver, nope, not a chance. You'll get to hear and feel certain noises/vibrations you never heard/felt before...first time i drove my junk with the solid mounts, i seriously though something was broken or letting go, then i had some buddies ride with me and found out, that's just how they are...the noise and vibration is not subtle, you'll know theyr'e solid mount for sure...but so long as it's a toy and not a DD, it's the better choice IMO for a stout engine, if you under 400hp, i would'nt bother and stick with poly mounts instead.

 

had them on a while now they work great they are louder and cause more vibration but that doesnt bother me on a car that sees very minimal street use. would i have it on a daily driver? probly but stuff like that doesnt really bother me.

 

Ya, probably comparable to rod ended suspension parts...which is tolerable in my opinion. I don't have a need for solid mounts right now so ill stick with the polys i just put in but thanks for the feedback.

 

??? I’m confused, do you mean that you just bolted the moroso body side mounts to the stock “ears” bolted to the side of the block? I’ve seen what the body side moroso part looks like but they always list them as requiring another moroso part number to replace the engine side that I’ve never seen and I was wondering if it was necessary.

As far as how solid mounts feel in the car, I’d say that some of it is up to the engine. If you have a really rough, bumpy cam and generally an aggressive setup then they would transfer a lot more of that to the body. In a milder setup they’re not that obnoxious. In my brother’s car (218/226/112lsa cam in a ford 302) I don’t think that you could even feel the difference when we swapped in the solid mounts, at least not WRT to the engine, it did make the front suspension feel somewhat stiffer.

 

you have to buy both halves.